HONESTY OF THE POSTMASTERS. 177 a wood of spruce and Scotch fir; and its sides were covered with moss and wild roses, the latter of which we here found for the first time in Finland. In this quarter hardy females are to be seen occupied in driving carts, and many of them wear veils over their faces, like those worn by the inmates of a monastery. On reaching Ominia, we proceeded along its banks for some distance. This river winds along lazily, till it loses itself in an extensive lake, near which we stopped at the post-house of Bijorsby. The gratitude on the part of the landlady, on our paying the bill for lodging and breakfast, was such, that she actually laid hold of our arms and kissed them most cordially, a tolerable proof that travellers were rarities to her. Two circumstances struck us forcibly in travelling through Finland; namely, that no military were to be seen in any of the villages, and also that there were hardly any indications of poverty among the peasantry, all being well clothed. Both these circumstances speak much in favour of the national character; and it may also be added, by way of contrast to what we experienced in the Russian dominions, that no attempt was made by the post-masters to impose upon us, by representing the distance we had to go greater than it really was, and charging accordingly. This, however, may arise not altogether from sterling 178 BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY. principles of honesty, but from their being aware that any deceit of the kind must be detected, as the number of miles between the stations are marked, and fines are imposed in case of fraud; so that a traveller cannot be cheated with his eyes open without knowing it, and having his remedy accordingly. The remarkable expedition, likewise, with which, in consequence of the salutary regulations of the " dag" book, the horses are exchanged, is often equal to that which takes place in our English mails, and is certainly a great advantage to the traveller. The road now led through an open country, with hills on each side, and scattered hamlets at a distance, and some churches built of stone, with their belfries detached. The views in this part were delightfully romantic and varied, and the whole landscape one of the finest we had ever beheld. Dead must be the heart of that man who travels along insensible of the beauties of nature: every thing is expressive of gladness and joy; the perfume of flowers, the harmony of the feathered tribe, the gentle breeze, the flocks browzing, and winged insects sporting in the rays of a glorious sun; moreover, the majestic woods, meandering streams, the silver waves of rivers, and verdure of the fields. Who can be indifferent, we ask, to her wonderful works? All that he sees around ought to prompt him, not only to admire the goodness of a bountiful ARRIVAL AT ABO. 179 Creator, who merely "spoke, and it was done,” but reflect on the greatness of His wisdom. We afterwards proceeded along the side of a rocky mountain covered with wood, to which succeeded well-cultivated valleys, extensive sheets of water, clusters of cottages, with meadows covered with flocks and shepherds, and numbers of windmills in full motion on a height. These mills are remarkably narrow, and resemble in shape a huge sentry-box. We next arrived at. Sahlo, which is situated in an amphitheatre, surrounded by rocks in an undulating form; and proceeding along this extensive amphitheatre, which has a lake in front, we passed through a delightful woody country, until, after a drive along a most noble, avenue, we reached Handala, which commands a most enchanting view of a fertile vale beneath, fringed with wood. At Rungo a deluge of rain set in, and at last we arrived at Abo, thus having travelled 340 versts from Viborg. CHAP. IX. Abo. Cathedral. Tombs. University. - Library. — Clergy.- Military hospital. -Prisons. - Mineral spring. -Magnificent inn. Conflagration in 1827.- Popular antipathy to Russia. - Departure from Abo by sea.Passage to Stockholm. As Viborg is denominated the capital of Russian, so is Abo that of Swedish Finland. It is situated between the Gulf of Bothnia, and that of Finland; and previously to the period of its passing into the hands of Russia, was ranked as the eighth town that was entitled to vote in the diet or parliament, while, in point of size, it was considered to be the fourth in Sweden, having 12,000 inhabitants. The site is beautiful, it being partly built on an elevation between mountains, and divided by the river Aurojoke. Some of the streets are a mile in length, and tolerably wide, but without foot-paths. The houses, which amount to 1100, are chiefly built of wood, painted, and covered with turf. A few are built of stone, or of brick covered with plaster, and painted red or yellow. Each householder is obliged to light a lamp, keep it in repair, and clean the street opposite to his house. The shops make no show, and many of them are in court ABO. CATHEDRAL. 181 yards, quite shut out from view; in some, however, are to be found French and English goods. There are a town-house, courts of law, and custom-house. Across the river, which is 156 feet in breadth, is a bridge, where vessels from Sweden are moored on the right side, opposite which are some pleasure-houses-about one hundred Swedish vessels arrive here yearly. On the highest rock, which bears some general similarity to the Calton-hill at Edinburgh, is a handsome observatory, with towers, and a statue on the summit. From this eminence a beautiful prospect is presented, not only of the town on each side of the banks of the river, and its serpentine stream, but of the country around, which is enlivened by the numerous windmills on the opposite heights; and, except it be at Lisle in Flanders, I have nowhere seen so many in one spot. The cathedral, which is supposed to be the oldest church in Finland, was built in 1300, and ranks next to Upsala in Sweden in point of antiquity. "Hail, ye bold turrets, and thou reverend pile, This edifice is built of brick, in the Gothic style, with a roof of sheet-iron, and at different periods has suffered from the effects of lightning. |