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Rhine, at nine o'clock on the morning of the 25th, Mr. Trask, from Portland, Maine, who was traveling with his wife, introduced himself and wife to us, and we all became companions for the day, which, though a little raw, was passed very pleasantly. The varied scenery which came under our view as we glided along afforded us much pleasure. Cities and villages, castles and ruins of castles, sweet cottages and elegant mansions, with their adornings, terrace above terrace, sometimes to the number of thirty or more, along the rugged banks, covered with grape - vines — fields of waving grain-together presented a picture both novel and beautiful.

“Above the frequent feudal towers
Through green leaves lift their walls of gray,

And many a rock which steeply lowers,
And noble arch in proud decay,

Look o'er this vale of vintage bowers.” We were the most interested, perhaps, in the many castles on either side, the names of which we learned as we passed them. A few miles above Bonn, on the opposite side of the river, is the celebrated Drachenfels, the highest of a group of seven mountains, on the summit of which stands an old castle, said to have been once the fortress and watch - tower of the robbers of the Rhine.

“The castled crag of Drachenfels

Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine,
Whose breast of waters broadly swells

Between the banks which bear the vine.” At or near Falkensberg stands the old Cathedral of St. Clements and the restored Castle of Rheinstein, the summer residence of Prince Frederick of Prussia. At the base of this Castle is a sweet little chapel, and both are nestled in a forest of shade

trees upon the side of the precipice, on a peak of which, near by, is an elegant summer house, resembling a Swiss cottage. On one of her visits to Prussia, Queen Victoria was entertained here. lentz the river is spanned by boats, forming a bridge from that city to the strong fortification of Ehrenbreitstein on a high point opposite. It is said that this fortification, perhaps the strongest in Germany, is capable of accommodating one hundred thousand men, and that provisions for eight thousand for ten years could be stored in its magazines. At Coblentz there is a royal residence sometimes occupied by the Emperor of Germany. Opposite the Castle of Ehrenfels is the celebrated “Mouse Tower," associated with the tradition graphically related in rhyme by Southey. The story goes that the summer and autumn had been so wet that in winter the corn continued to grow and lay rotting on the ground; yet, rather than gather it,

“Every day the starving poor

Crowded around Bishop Hatto's door,
For he had a plentiful last year's store.”

At length, having become tired of their begging, he appointed a day for them all to come to his great barn, promising to furnish them there with a winter's supply of food.

“Rejoiced at such tidings, good to hear,

The poor folk flocked from far and near;
The great barn was full as it could hold
Of women and children and young and old.

“ And when he saw it could hold no more,

Bishop Hatto he made fast the door;
And while for mercy on Christ they call,
He set fire to the barn and burnt them all.

" I' faith it is an excellent bonfire!' quoth he,
* And the country is greatly obliged to me
For ridding it, in these times forlorn,

Of rats that only consume the corn.' The result was that the Bishop never slept again. The next morning he found the rats had eaten his portrait out of its frame on the wall, consumed all the corn in his granaries, and that an army of ten thousand of them was on its way to attack him. Filled with consternation, he hastened across the river and shut himself up in this tower; but the rats followed, and, breaking into the tower, soon devoured him.

“They gnawed the flesh from every limb,

For they were sent to do judgment on him.” A short distance above the “Mouse Tower" is “Bingen on the Rhine;" a place also made famous by song. We will not attempt to relate the story of the dying soldier whose home was “on the vine-clad hills of Bingen-fair Bingen on the Rhine.” “He who runs may read.” Most of the way, thus far, the shores on either side are more or less mountainous; but as we approach Johannisberg, celebrated for its fine wines, and as the residence of the late Prince Metternich, the country grows more level, and so continues as far at least as Mayence, where, late in the evening, we took the cars and arrived at our hotel in Frankfort about half-past eleven.

CHAPTER XVII.

UREMBERG, JULY 28. - Before leaving Lon- .

don we provided ourselves with a few £10 circular notes, which we found very convenient, and, being drawn to our order, they were quite safe. On some parts of the continent they bring a small premium. Going to the bank in Frankfort on the morning of the 26th to get one of these changed, and observing in the same building the sign of the United States consul, we stopped to pay our respects to him, and were kindly received. Mr. Webster, the consul, had just returned from Homburg, and informed us that return tickets to that celebrated watering -place were sold for fifty cents each - the cars running several times a day. He proposed that we should make a trip there, and that he should meet us on our return late in the afternoon. To this we readily agreed. Meantime, however, we took a turn through the city to see some of the monuments, and Dannecker's noted statue of “Ariadne”—a nude female figure seated on a tiger. This statue, pictures of which are often seen, is regarded as a remarkable work of art. It is a novel way of showing off the beauties of the human form. It matters little what name is given to these statues. This is called “Ariadne.” Some are called “Eve,” some “Venus,” some “The Greek Slave," others " Proserpine,” “Clytie," and so on. Near the villa in which this statue of “ Ariadne” is exhibited is a massive monument, erected by the King of Prussia to the memory of the Hessians who fell in defense of Frankfort. The base is of granite, surmounted by a military device, cast from cannon taken from the French. In the

city are the triple Gutenberg monuments, and fine bronze statue monuments also of Goethe and Schiller. Schiller's represents him crowned with laurel and holding a book in his hand. We spent a good part of the day delightfully at Homburg, which must not be, as it sometimes is, confounded with Hamburg, the great commercial city on the Elbe. Until within a few years, Homburg, like Wiesbaden and Baden-Baden, not to mention other similar watering -places, was a great resort for gamblers, and for summer recreation of everybody else who might desire a charming location where they could enjoy free of charge the mineral waters of the springs, the daily music of a large band, and the luxurious drawing and gambling rooms of the Kursaal. It is a paradise of a place. The springs, the waters of which are like those of Saratoga, are situated in a grove, some fifteen minutes' walk from the Kursaal, which is on the main street of the village. Connected with the Kursaal, which is still kept open and provided with a reading - room where newspapers from all quarters may be perused, there is a first-class restaurant, beautiful garden, music pavilion, etc. On the north side, fronting the garden, through which are walks leading toward the springs, there is a spacious veranda, where visitors may sit and sip their coffee, wine, or beer, and listen to the music of the band. In one part of the building there is a theater room, and another part is devoted to baths, medicinal or not, at one's pleasure. Since gambling has been prohibited here, visitors, if they come to stop a few days or more, are taxed a reasonable sum toward defraying the expenses of the band and keeping everything in order. We were happy to meet here Mrs. Senator Sprague, who, with

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