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very popular with our English cousins, were obliged alone to do the honors of the occasion.
In one or two of our excursions through the city we have had a good view of Newgate, the principal prison, so well known, in London. This is where all criminals sentenced to death for crimes committed in the county of Middlesex suffer the last penalty of the law. “The antiquity of this building is prodigious if viewed in connection with what it was meant to continue or restore; for on this spot stood a Roman fort. If considered in its present capacity as a prison, it is still very ancient. During nearly seven hundred and fifty years have the guilty or unfortunate been here incarcerated. An underground passage leads from the cells to the dock in the Old Bailey Sessions House;" and there is a prison van, which just fits this aperture, thus preventing the escape of prisoners during removal.
In our wanderings one day we went as far as Bonhill-field Burying-ground, in Bonhill Row, Finsbury. It appeared to be away to one side of the city; and our guide said it used to be one of the great fields appertaining to Finsbury Farm, Bonhillfield, Wallow-field, and the High-field, where the three windmills stood. It was used as a pest-field during the great plague of 1665, when nearly one hundred thousand of the population of London fell victims to that terrible disease. Soon after it was converted into a cemetery for the Dissenters, and so it has been continued ever since. John Bunyan was buried here, in the vault of his friend Strudwick, a grocer, in whose house he died August 31, 1688. There is a fine monument to him here with figures illustrative of the “Pilgrim's Progress.” The mother of John and Charles Wesley was also buried here,
and so was De Foe. The inscription on her tomb states that she was the mother of nineteen children. From near the tombs of all these noted persons we plucked leaves to send home. On the opposite side of the street to the cemetery we saw the house in which John Wesley died, and his tomb is just in the rear thereof.
We can go nowhere in London without seeing more or less to interest. One day, abandoning all thought of care, we walked all the way from Cheapside along Newgate street, Holborn viaduct, High Holborn, Oxford street, and Edgeware and Bishop's road, to our own lodgings in Queen's road, half the length of the city. Hearing only English spoken, we might have forgotten and thought ourselves in New York; for some portions of the business streets seemed like Broadway. Cheapside is the great center of the retail trade, and perhaps the most active and crowded part of London. It is said to have derived its name from having been the market of the Ward of Chepe. "It was the northern boundary of Roman London, all beyond being marsh and bog. In 1631 it was called the “Beauty of London.” It is full of historical recollections. It was here that Edward I. erected one of the nine Crosses raised in memory of Eleanor, his Queen. It stood for over three hundred years on the spot where her body rested, on the way from Lincoln to Westminster, but was finally “demolished on the 2d of May, 1613, in the mayoralty of the regicide Isaac Pennington, to the noise of trumpets, the tramp of horses, and the cries of the multitude.” It was here that Wat Tyler caused Richard Irons and others to be beheaded in 1381; and in 1450 Jack Cade caused Lord Say to be put to death here in the same manner.
Having purchased Cook's tickets to Geneva, via Holland, Belgium, Germany, and Austria, taking the principal cities in Switzerland and Chamouni in our route, we must bid good-bye to London for the present.
we are in Hol. land, stopping at the Amsted Hotel, the leading public house in Amsterdam, and said to be the best in Holland. We left London in a pouring rain, at seven P. M., on the 16th, took the steamer from Harwich about nine, and reached Rotterdam next morning at half-past nine, after a most wretched night of sea-sickness, so far as the writer was concerned. His fair companion having been so fortunate as to secure a lounge, passed the night quite comfortably. No such luck for him! Every berth in the gentlemen's cabin was engaged, and the best that could be done for him was a mattress on the cabin floor across the stern of the boat, a hard pillow about two inches thick, one blanket, and a wash-bowl as a compagnon de lit. This arrangement, however, had this advantage-it avoided the necessity of undressing. But such a bed, and such an irregular rocking, pitching, and twisting! All night long the boat was dancing a crazy jig, and you might as well have tried to dodge chain-lightning as attempted to accommodate yourself to its erratic motions. Travelers between England and the Continent may well bid the day good speed when they
may make the passage by rail through a submarine tunnel. We made only a short stop in Rotterdam, but long enough to see that it is a large city; and we had a good view of it as we approached it by the river Meuse, whose green banks, after such a night, were beautiful to behold. The city is threaded by canals, with draw and stationary bridges, and much of the communication is by ferryboats. In the market-place there is a bronze statue of Erasmus, and the house in which he was born, in 1467, is still preserved.
From Rotterdam we proceeded to the Hague, the capital of Holland, and a charmingly neat and clean city, also abounding in canals. The streets and sidewalks are well paved and shaded by long rows of trees, and extending into the city stands a large forest, kept entirely clear of all underbrush. A drive of one or two miles through this forest took us to the “Queen's House in the Woods.” The grounds around it are beautifully laid out, and adorned by flower gardens, fountains, and statuary. In appearance the exterior of the Palace is unpretending, but its rooms and furniture are remarkably fine. The ball - room is very spacious, and is full of paintings, many of which illustrate the life of Frederick, the first King of the Netherlands. Family portraits adorn the billiard - room. There is a Chinese and likewise a Japanese room, each provided with furniture from those countries respectively. The former has furniture upholstered with white embroidered silk, and the latter with light green silk, elaborately worked, all gifts to the Queen from those countries. We understand that the Queen's family consists of herself, husband, and two sons. The King occupies his Palace in the city, paying
only occasional visits to the Queen; Harper's Handbook says “once a year,” but that seems unreasonable. We passed but did not enter the King's Palace. We have visited the old and new House of Lords and House of Commons, having to pay fees to three attendants before we could get in; as we were obliged to pay, also, one guilder (one franc each) admission fee to the House in the Woods. The chief attraction was in the National Museum, (admission free,) formerly the Palace of Prince Maurice, where there is a large collection of paintings, mostly by Dutch and Flemish artists. We saw here the famous picture of the “Young Bull,” by Paul Potter. It is stated that Napoleon seized this picture and had it hung up in the Louvre in Paris, notwithstanding the Dutch government offered him $100,000 to leave it undisturbed. It represents a young bull with white and brown spots, a cow reclining on the greensward before him, a horned ram, with a sheep and lamb, lying at his head, and an old cowherd leaning against a large tree, under the shade of which and an adjoining tree all (life size) seem to be resting in quiet contemplation. Another noted picture is “Venus Asleep,” by Poussin. We turned away, without reluctance, from a large painting by Rembrandt, representing the dissection of a dead man by a professor and his pupils. It is considered a great work of art. There is here also a Royal Cabinet of Curiosities, comprising costumes of the Chinese and Japanese, a large collection of Japanese ware, weapons, coats-of-mail, and thousands of other things of more or less interest.
Amsterdam is an hour and a half by rail from the Hague. Here, too, there is a Royal Palace, regarded as the most magnificent building in the city. We