devices. Queen Elizabeth is represented as standing by the side of her horse, arrayed in the same dress and armor she wore at Tilbury in 1588, when she made her memorable speech to the assembled army. We were in the Bloody Tower, where Richard III. had his two nephews put to death; in the Boyer Tower, where the Duke of Clarence is said to have been drowned in a butt of Malmsey; in the Brick Tower, where Lady Jane Grey was confined; in the Beauchamp Tower, where Anne Boleyn was imprisoned; and in the White Tower, where Sir Walter Raleigh was beheaded, and where we saw the fatal block and axe in the execution room. We entered his prison lodgings, a cell ten feet long and eight feet wide, formed in the thickness of the wall, and receiving no light except from the doorway. It was here within this Tower that, tradition says, Sir Walter Raleigh wrote his history of the world. The crown jewels, which are immensely valuable, are kept carefully guarded in a small room of the Tower and within an iron grating. Among these is the crown made for the coronation of Queen Victoria, at a cost of $600,000; St. Edward's crown, made of gold and embellished with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, pearls and sapphires; the Prince of Wales' crown; the Queen's diadem; St. Edward's staff; the Ancient Queen's crown; the royal scepter; the Queen's scepter; the ivory scepter made for Marie d'Este, James II.'s Queen; the rod of equity, the curtana, or pointless sword of mercy, two swords of justice, a baptismal font, a beautiful service of sacramental plate, the coronation bracelets and spurs, and the anointing vessel and spoon, all used at the coronation; and last, but not all, a golden salt-cellar of most beautiful workmanship. These gems were all pointed out

and their use fully explained to us by a special attendant.

On the afternoon of the 30th of June we rode three quarters of an hour by rail to Windsor Castle. The Queen being there we were admitted only to the Round Tower, the Chapel, and the "Mews," or Queen's stables. In the Mews we saw seventy beautiful horses, many of them with pet names, and a great many carriages. In one building are the carriages in use by the Queen and Prince Albert during his lifetime; but since his death she has not allowed them to be used, and they will probably pass into the catalogue of royal relics intact. In the vault of St. George's Chapel are the remains of many of the sovereigns of England and of other members of the royal family. The marble monument here to the Princess Charlotte, wife of Leopold I., is touchingly beautiful. There is a fine monument, also, to the Duke of Kent, and one in bas-relief to Prince Albert, whose remains were deposited in a mausoleum a short distance from the Castle. The Prince of Wales was christened and married in St. George's Chapel. The following hymn, composed by his father, was sung at the wedding, Jenny Lind Goldschmidt assisting the choir:

"This day, with joyful heart and voice,

To Heaven be raised a nation's prayer:

Almighty Father, deign to grant

Thy blessing to the wedded pair.

"So shall no clouds of sorrow dim

The sunshine of their earthly days;

But happiness in endless round

Shall still encompass all their ways."

The sexton, who opened the doors to us, said he was present at the baptism and marriage of the Prince.

The view from the tower, where a communicative soldier is stationed to point out all places of interest, is very fine. Not more than half a mile off, on the other side of the Thames, lie the village of Eton and Eton College in plain sight. We could see the college boys playing on the green. At the right we could see the house of William Penn and the little church and monuments in the graveyard where Gray wrote his immortal Elegy. Near by is Runnymede, where King John signed the Magna Charta. Extending westwardly from the Castle is the Long Walk, three miles, bordered by forest trees. From the tower we looked down upon a garden of flowers in full bloom. A walk around the terrace of the Castle was very pleasant, and had there been time we should have been glad to take a stroll through the Park, which comprises about three thousand eight hundred acres. The village of Windsor is an interesting old place.

CHAPTER XIII.

BONDON, JULY 12.—We have been to the top of St. Paul's and conversed in the Whispering Gallery across or around the inner circle of its spacious dome. We have also attended service here, when we heard a good sermon by Rev. Dr. Wright, on the efficacy of prayer. The music was magnificent. There are two large organs, facing each other at the end of the choir or chancel, and near the pulpit, over which is suspended a soundingboard from the rim of the dome. One organist

plays on both organs at once, by means either of pedals extending from one to the other under the floor, or by electricity. The grandeur of the surroundings added much to the effect, sitting there, as we did, under the beautiful dome, with statesmen, scholars, and warriors, all in sculptured marble, and, as we imagined, looking down upon us and listening to words of wisdom and to music whose echoes softly expired in the distant recesses of aisle, tower, and transept in strains of heavenly melody. Like Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's is a place of tombs and monuments to the distinguished dead. In the crypt lie the remains of Nelson and Wellington, side by side, and of Sir Christopher Wren, the architect, who designed and superintended the erection of this magnificent structure, which was completed from its foundation in thirty-five years. The remains of Sir Joshua Reynolds, Benjamin West, Sir Thomas Lawrence, and James Barry were also buried here, and among the principal monuments are those of Bishop Heber, John Howard, Sir John Moore, Nelson, Wellington, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Lord Cornwallis, Sir Ralph Abercrombie, and Dr. Johnson. Many of the officers and soldiers of the army, as well as sailors, painters, and poets are commemorated by monuments more or less elaborate. We were especially interested in one inscription, which we copied from the base of two life-size marble statues, standing side by side in officers' uniform, as follows:

"Major General Sir Edward Pakenham and Major General Samuel Gibbs, who fell gloriously on the 8th of January, 1815, while leading the troops to an attack on the enemy's works in front of New Orleans." The tomb of Sir Christopher Wren bears the following inscription in Latin:

"Beneath lies Christopher Wren, the architect of this church and city, who lived more than ninety years, not for himself alone, but for the public. Reader, do you seek his monument? Look around!"

St. Paul's stands in an elevated position at the end of Ludgate Hill, in the city of London proper. It is in the form of a Latin cross, five hundred and fourteen feet in length and two hundred and eightyseven wide. It is built of Portland stone, and is said to have cost $4,000,000. The dome is supported by eight immense piers, each of them forty feet at the base. There are three domes, in fact; an outer one of wood, covered with lead, and an inner, with a brick one between. Its great bell, which strikes the hour, and is heard from a long distance, is never tolled except on the death of some one of the royal family. The view from the dome is superb.

In the forenoon of the 4th of July, which was Sunday, we went to Temple Church near Temple Bar. This church is more than six hundred years old, and used to be the church of the Knights Templar, as it is now of the Barristers. It contains many monumental effigies and sculptured portraits of its ancient owners. Oliver Goldsmith was buried here. Close by are the Temple Gardens, celebrated by Shakspeare as the scene of the plucking of the red and white roses the badges of the Houses of York and Lancaster. Temple Bar is so called from its being the boundary line between London and Westminster, which used to be marked by a bar, posts, and chains. These were superseded by a gate, which was taken down after the great fire, and on that as well as on the present gate, erected in 1670, the heads of rebels and traitors used to be exposed. This custom was continued as late as 1772. "The curious custom of closing the gates and not admitting royalty into the