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tion that we attended a concert also at Albert Hall, where we heard Mesdames Christine Nilsson and Trebelli Bettoni, Mesdemoiselles Titiens and Varesi, Signor Campinini, and other famous singers. The Hall being pretty well filled, the audience alone was a magnificent sight.

The Mansion House, where we saw the Lord Mayor holding court, is one of the prominent public buildings; and Guildhall, the Hotel de Ville of the city of London, is another which we have visited. In the latter the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs of the city are elected, and here, exalted on lofty pedestals on either side of the west window, are the ancient colossal figures of Gog and Magog, which, being of wood and hollow, used to be carried in the procession on the Mayor's show day. They seem to have been carved to represent giants. We have paid our respects to some of the head officials of the General Post Office, and witnessed some of its wonderful workings. In one room are one thousand clerks of both sexes, whose entire duty it is to attend to the postal telegraph business. Messages are dispatched from here to the various postal stations throughout the city, and received therefrom, by means of pneumatic tubes.

A good part of one day in the Zoological Gardens, where we had the pleasure of meeting Grace Greenwood and her daughter, was pleasantly spent, affording, as it did, an opportunity of seeing all sorts of animals, fowls, birds, etc. Among other interesting sights were some young seals, which surprised us by their almost human intelligence under the training of a funny little Frenchman.

One afternoon we wandered among the tombs and monuments at Kensal Green Cemetery, where we plucked leaves from the grave of Thomas Hood. On

one side of the base of his monument, in bas-relief, are figures representing a drowned girl being borne "tenderly" in the hands of men; on the other side, the figure of an aged person apparently in distress, and in front that of another man convulsed with laughter. On the top of the square column is a large bust of the poet. Allan Cunningham, John Murray, the eminent publisher, Sydney Smith (Peter Plymley), the Duke of Sussex, Anne Scott, daughter of Sir Walter Scott, and Thackeray, were also buried here.

An hour or two at Madame Tussaud's exhibition of waxworks reminded us of inimitable Artemas Ward and his show of "wax figgers." Taken as a whole it is a ridiculous collection. While Washington and Franklin are tolerably represented, the figures of Lincoln, McClellan, Beecher, and even Dickens, are the merest burlesques. Those of Andrew Johnson and General Grant, grouped with Lincoln and McClellan, might possibly be recognized. The best things here and these are really good-are a sleeping beauty, with internal machinery causing her chest to rise and fall as if she were breathing; a standing figure of Madame Tussaud, very life-like, with her bonnet on, viewing the Queen and other members of the royal family before her; and lastly, the form and likeness of William Cobbett, the picture of Horace Greeley, sitting as if looking at the show, his broad-brimmed hat and spectacles on, and a snuffbox in his hand. We were assured that this figure has sometimes been taken for real flesh and blood, and that visitors have turned indignantly away from the placid old gentleman because he would not deign to answer their questions or give them a pinch of snuff. With a little more care this exhibition might be made to possess a much greater merit. We sought

out one of the proprietors of the concern present and earnestly protested against burlesquing our modern statesmen, warriors and divines in such a shocking manner, when, with a little more pains, they could be correctly represented.

Years might be usefully spent in the study of the British Museum, the granite building of which covers acres. We devoted a rainy day to it. It is open to the public, free, three days in the week. There are the Botanical Museum; the Mammalian, Zoological and Mineral Galleries, the Gallery of Egyptian, Greek and Roman Antiquities, the Sculpture Gallery, in one part of which the curious marbles from Nineveh are exhibited; and then there is the Library of nearly one million printed volumes, and manuscripts and prints without number. Embraced with these is the entire library, seventy thousand volumes, of George III., regarded as very valuable, presented by his successor, George IV. We were highly interested in the room appropriated to autographs, ancient books, etc. We noticed among the autographs those of Washington, Queen Elizabeth, Mary, Queen of Scots, Chaucer, Voltaire, Napoleon, Shakspeare, the Georges and other Kings of England. Here are copies of some of the first books ever printed. "Among the one thousand, six hundred and fifty different editions of the Bible here, is the first issued from the press, called the Mazarine Bible. It is printed on vellum, in the Latin language, by Gutenberg and Faust, in 1455." There is an endless collection of coins of all nations, old jewelry, curious weapons, and almost every other old curiosity under the sun. The Portland Vase is regarded as wonderful, first, because, we believe, its composition is a lost art, and secondly, because, after being broken into one hundred pieces,

more or less, it has been restored almost to its original beauty. It is of dark blue glass, adorned with delicate white medallion pictures. The lamented Dr. Horatio Stone, the sculptor, who crossed the ocean with us, advised us to be sure not to overlook it. A fine life-sized bronze statue of Stonewall Jackson is on exhibition here. We understand it is to be sent to Richmond as a present from some of his English admirers. Dean Stanley mentioned to us a singular fact, that while there was in Westminster Abbey an expensive monument-a reclining statue, which we have seen of the Duke of Montpensier, brother of Louis Philippe, King of France, the only figure of Washington to be seen in any of the memorial halls of London is the small likeness on Major André's monument and a large bust in the basement of the British Museum. We observed this bust, which, if memory serves us, is of plaster, and in an out of the way place. On our visit to the Museum we had the pleasure of seeing the good Queen of Holland,* who, in company with several gentlemen, was also on a visit to this establishment. We should say she is about fifty, tall, with light hair and eyes, and pleasant looking, but not handsome; and our lady companion says she wore a plain dress of dark bluish purpled plaid, and bonnet trimmed with black.

Starting one day for Hampton Court, when we reached Victoria. Theater, near Waterloo Bridge, and near where we were to take the cars, we learned that Moody and Sankey were about to hold services in the Theater building, and we stopped to hear them. The house was crowded, the stage being occupied by one hundred or more clergymen, among whom was New

*Died June 2, 1877, aged fifty-nine years.

man Hall, who made a short address after Mr. Moody closed. Since then we have heard Mr. Hall preach one Sunday at St. James' Hall. After an hour's delay we proceeded to Hampton Court, and walked through thirty-two rooms of the palace filled with pictures-eight hundred or more in all-many of them by the old masters,- Titian, Raphael, Van Dyck, and others. There are some wonderful tapestries here. In one room we saw the bed of Queen Anne. This palace was built by Cardinal Wolsey, and presented to Henry VIII., but was subsequently. under the direction of William III., much enlarged. It is of red brick, with stone facings. The garden, adorned with sculptured fountains and beautiful shade trees, is one of the most charming in England. We did not, omit to see here the far-famed maze, nor the famous grape-vine, on which there were twelve hundred bunches of green grapes, and which, being one hundred and nine years old, is said to have borne in a single year as many as three thousand bunches. True to his trust, the attendant could not be prevailed on, even for money, to part with a single leaf from its branches. It is trailed under a glass roof.

We have been to the Drury Lane and Haymarket Theaters; neither remarkable for anything we heard or saw there. Indeed, in the latter, where we saw Sothern as Lord Dundreary, we thought the play was decidedly stupid. We have seen him do much better in Washington.

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