in 1773, and where he met that "unlucky specimen of Scottish cleanliness" referred to by Boswell: "He asked to have his lemonade made sweeter, upon which the waiter, with his greasy fingers, lifted up a lump of sugar and put it into it. The Doctor, in indignation, threw it out of the window." This reminds one of Daniel Webster's throwing overboard his tooth-brush, greatly to the surprise of a "greenhorn" fellow-passenger, who had requested merely the loan of it-which was granted!

The large Gallery of paintings and extensive Museum here afforded us much pleasure. So, likewise, the view of the Parliament House and Library, St. Giles' Church, and a ramble on Calton Hill. On a Sunday we listened to what we thought a rather dry sermon from the writer of hymns, Horatius Bonar, who is pastor of a small church in the suburbs of the city. He is about sixty, and resembles Martin Van Buren at that age. In the evening we heard the Rev. Dr. Alexander, a more distinguished divine.

In Holyrood Palace, "the ancient residence of Scottish royalty," we were brought again, as we could but feel, very near the unfortunate Queen Mary. We first entered the picture Gallery, "upon the walls of which are suspended De Witt's fanciful portraits of one hundred and six Scottish Kings in a style of art truly barbarous, an interesting portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots, excepted." There are also other portraits of more or less historical interest. We were next shown the rooms of Lord Darnley, in which, among other portraits, are one of the youthful Lord Darnley, and one of his brother. From these rooms is a private stairway leading to the Queen's rooms above. Next we came to the tapestry room, the walls of which are hung with old tapestry;

and in one of the rooms we saw the bedstead of Charles I. The large, old fire-places in some of the rooms are very curious. Queen Mary's apartments were the most interesting. It is said they remain in nearly the same state as when she left them. In her bed-room are her bed and other ancient furniture. "On one side of the room is the door of the secret passage by which the conspirators entered, and adjoining is the cabinet or closet where they found their victim, Rizzio. It is said that he was dragged out from this to the door of the audience chamber, where he was finally dispatched, and the exact spot where the body lay is identified by marks of blood, still visible," and which we saw. Another account states that Lord Darnley, "who himself headed the conspirators, first entered, and casting his arm fondly round the Queen's waist, seated himself beside her at table. Lord Ruthven followed in complete armor, looking pale and ghastly, as one scarcely recovered from long sickness. Others crowded in after them, till the closet was full of armed men. While the Queen demanded the purpose of their coming, Rizzio, who saw that his life was aimed at, got behind her and clasped the folds of her gown, that the respect due to her person might protect him. The assassins threw down the table and seized on the unfortunate object of their vengeance, while Darnley himself took hold of the Queen and forced Rizzio and her asunder. It was their intention, doubtless, to have dragged Rizzio out of Mary's presence, and to have killed him elsewhere; but their fierce impatience hurried them into instant murder. George Douglas, a natural brother of the Earl of Morton, set the example by striking Rizzio with the dagger which he had snatched from Darnley's belt. He received many

other blows. They then dragged him through the bedroom and anteroom, and dispatched him at the head of the staircase with no less than fifty-six wounds. The Queen continued to beg his life with prayers and tears; but when she learned that he was dead, she dried her tears and said: 'I will now study revenge.

From the Queen's apartments we descended to the Chapel, which was founded in 1128, and is now in beautiful ruins-the walls only remaining. On a tablet in the wall is the following inscription, placed there at the instance of Charles I.:

BASILICAM HANC, SEMI RUTANI,

CAROLUS REX,

OPTIMUS INSTAVRAVIT,

1633.

He shall build ane house for my name, and I will stablish
the throne of His kingdom forever.

In the belfry tower is a marble monument to Lord Belhaven, (1639,) and in one corner of the Abbey "is the royal vault, in which are deposited the remains of David II., James II., James V., and Magdalen, his Queen; Henry, Lord Darnley, and other illustrious persons." Rizzio's grave and the fombs of many others of the Scottish nobility are located in different parts of the Abbey. While examining the inscriptions on these old tombs we were happily surprised at the appearance of a friend from Washington, Mr. J. H. Wilkinson, of the Treasury Department, who, about to return home, kindly offered to report in person to our friends on his arrival.

Rising immediately from Holyrood Palace, which is on the eastern edge of the city, Arthur's Seat, eight hundred and twenty-two feet in height, is conspicuous; and one fine day we walked to its rocky

summit, taking our lunch (cakes and sparkling lemonade, purchased there of a Scotchwoman,) and sat on the highest point of the ledge-dangerous of ascent and descent, except to youthful persons like ourselves. It was a day never to be forgotten. Far below us, around the brow of the cliff, is the Queen's Drive. This walk took us to the very spot where Jennie Deans is represented to have met with the ruffian Robertson, and along the foot-path or Salisbury Crags, past the ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel, only small sections of the walls of which remain, and also by St. Anthony's Well, from which we quenched our thirst, and which is thus alluded to in an old song: "Now, Arthur's Seat shall be my bed,

The sheets shall ne'er be pressed by me;

St. Anton's Well shall be my drink,

Since my true love 's forsaken me."

This Well is very shallow, being only a common spring of good, pure water, gushing up from beneath a large boulder on the hillside. "The path along Salisbury Crags," says Sir Walter Scott, "used to be my favorite evening and morning resort when engaged with a favorite author or new subject of study."

In the Antiquarian Museum, among all sorts of Egyptian antiquities, we saw various instruments of punishment and torture formerly used in Scotland; for instance, the "branks," an iron instrument to fasten on the head "as a correction of incorrigible scolds;" the "thumbikins," used against the Covenanters; and the "maiden," or Scottish guillotine, by which many of the Scottish nobility were beheaded. Here, also, is the repentance stool from old Grayfriars' Church; John Knox's pulpit from that church; the stool which the celebrated Jenny

Geddes hurled at the head of the Dean of St. Giles' when he essayed, on one occasion, to read the Liturgy; a banner of the covenant, used in the battle of Bothwell Brig in 1679; autographs of Queen Mary, James VI., Charles I., Cromwell; and many other relics. It might be tiresome to further particularize.

CHAPTER VIII.

ONDON, JUNE 12.-- We left Edinburgh at 3

P. M. on the 8th instant for Melrose, where we stopped over night at the "King's Arms." We arrived in time to visit Melrose and Dryburgh Abbeys before sundown; and in the evening we had the pleasure of viewing Melrose Abbey by "pale moonlight" certainly a beautiful picture. Dryburgh Abbey is about five miles from Melrose, and in going there we had to leave our carriage near the end of our route and walk the rest of the way, crossing the Tweed on a foot toll bridge. Only some sections of the walls of this Abbey remain standing. In the best preserved part of the building are the tombs of Sir Walter Scott, his wife, his eldest son, and Lockhart, his son-in-law and biographer. The site on the banks of the Tweed is both beautiful and picturesque. Sir Walter's remains were deposited here by his special request, and we have a photograph showing the exact position of these tombs in the ruins. Near by is a colossal statue of Wallace. Melrose Abbey is better preserved than Dryburgh, some portions of it being yet under roofs. Many of the royal families of