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In one part of the town we came to a well, still supplied with pure water. Connected with the palaces were beautiful fountains, the marble adornments of which, with their cisterns, are still in a good state of preservation. There is a small Museum here filled with curious relics and models of various objects here brought to light. The most striking are plaster casts of corpses of a number of the ill - fated inhabitants, and a cast of the body of a dog, showing from his contortions that he died in extreme agony. A figure of a young girl has a ring on one of the fingers. These casts were taken by filling with plaster the cavities left by their bodies, which, embedded in the hardened ashes, had de(ayed. We have a perfect photograph of one of them, showing that the poor sufferer met death lying on her face, doubtless in the hope of avoiding suffocation. The excavation is still going on, but very slowly, we should judge from the comparatively few persons at work when we were present. Most of these were women and children, who carried the soil and ashes in baskets on their heads a short distance to a truck running on a temporary railroad to be conveyed away. Army or other Government officials were superintending the work. Pompeii was a walled city, and we entered through one of the old gateways. We might give many more particulars, but we should leave room for the poet. Rogers:

“At the fount,
Just where the three ways meet, I stood and looked,
('T was near a noble house, the house of Pansa,)
And all was still as in the long, long night
That followed, when the shower of ashes fell,
When they that sought Pompeii sought in vain!
It was not to be found.

But now a ray,

/

Bright and yet brighter, on the pavement glanced,
And on the wheel-track worn for centuries,
And on the stepping-stones from side to side,
O’er which the maidens, with their water urns,
Were wont to trip so lightly. Full and clear
The moon was rising, and at once revealed
The name of every dweller, and his craft;
Shining throughout, with an unusual luster,
And lighting up this city of the dead.
Mark, where within, as though the embers lived,
The ample chimney-vault is dun with smoke.
There dwelt a miller; silent and at rest
His mill-stones now. In old companionship
Still do they stand as on the day he went,
Each ready for its office — but he comes not.
And there, hard by, (where one in idleness
Has stopt to scrawl a ship, an armed man;
And in a tablet on the wall we read
Of shows ere long to be,) a sculptor wrought,
Nor meanly, blocks, half chiseled into lise,
Waiting his call. Here long, as yet attests
The trodden floor, an olive merchant drew
From many an earthen jar, no more supplied;
And here from his a vintner served his guests
Largely, the stain of his o’erflowing cups
Fresh on the marble. On the bench, beneath,
They sat and quaffed and looked on them that passed,

Gravely discussing the last news from Rome.” And now, bidding a last good-bye to the silent city, we mounted our carriages and were speedily conveyed to our lodgings in Naples, wondering why it is that while one city is engulfed by a terrible earthquake and another overwhelmed with burning. ashes, others still are exempt from any such awful ratastrophe.

CHAPTER LIII.

NAPLES, JANUARY 18. -- On the 12th our party

of nine passed the day in a most interesting trip to Baiæ, about twelve miles on the bay southwest of Naples, and back. The roads run near the sea all the way. From the strada Chiaja we enter the Grotto of Posilipo, a tunnel half a mile in length through a ledge or spur of a mountain. It is supposed to have been constructed in the reign of Agustus. “It is mentioned by Seneca and Petronius, under Nero, as a narrow and gloomy pass. Mediæval superstition attributed it to magic arts practiced by the poet Virgil," whose tomb is on the side hill near its eastern opening. Originally the bed of the road was much higher than at present, and we could see in the sides of the walls, about twenty feet above our heads, where deep grooves had been worn by the hubs of carriage wheels. The height of the grotto varies from twenty to ninety feet, and its width is from twenty-five to thirty feet. At the entrance and in the middle are small chapels, the ledge having been excavated to make room for them; and meek looking monks in their gowns and cowls stood ready to solicit any soldi we might have to spare. At the egress of the grotto we came to the small village of Fuorigrotta, whence we took the road to Pozzuoli, or Puteoli, as it is called in the 28th of Acts. After landing and tarrying three days at Syracuse - this was after his shipwreck - St. Paul says: “And from thence we fetched a compass, and came to Rhegium; and after one day the south wind blew, and we came the next day to Puteoli, where we found brethren and were desired to tarry with

them seven days; and so we went toward Rome.” We naturally took a lively interest in the place on St. Paul's account; but the only “brethren” who greeted us on our arrival were an army of guides and beggars, from whose importunities we were glad to escape by proceeding as speedily as possible on our journey. On an eminence behind the town there are the ruins of an amphitheater, which some of our party entered while the rest were satisfied with a look at the outside. By excavations made in 1838 a number of subterranean passages and receptacles for the wild beasts and other purposes were discovered. There was also a conduit by means of which the arena “could be laid under water when naval combats were to be represented. The celebrated gladiator combats under Nero, when he received Tiridates, King of Armenia, as a guest at his court, took place here, and even the Emperor himself enlivened the arena.” Before going to the amphitheater we went to the crater of Solfatara. It is bowl. shaped, with a level bottom, and about a quarter of a mile in diameter. At one side is a boiling mass of mud, which bubbles and sputters, as one of our party remarked, like hasty-pudding.

Near this was a considerable opening in the pumice-stone crust, through which sulphurous vapor and smoke were being emitted in a manner to indicate pretty lively operations directly beneath our feet. The guide led us close to this breathing-hole of the crater, and with a long-handled rake drew out red-hot pieces of porous stones yellow with sulphur, which we brought away with us. The soil is composed mostly of lime and sand, and six inches beneath the surface the sand under our feet was so hot that we could not hold it in our hands. Here the guide raised a heavy

stone to his head and let it fall to the ground, producing a reverberating sound from below, indicating plainly that the earth directly beneath was hollow. We declared ourselves satisfied with a single demonstration, nor had we any desire to remain longer in such near juxtaposition to what is undoubtedly a region of fire and brimstone. The latest eruption, attended with an emission of lava, known to have taken place from this crater, occurred in 1198.

Returning to our carriages, we pursued our journey toward Baiæ, stopping to view the ruins of several temples on the way. It was past midday when we reached the end of our route; and here we were again beset by a gang of beggars, men, women, and children, from whom we endeavored, but in vain, to escape. Our landlady had kindly provided for us a bountiful lunch, and that we might enjoy it unmolested, we walked a quarter of a mile away from any dwelling -- there were not a half a dozen in the place, one of them being a dirty innbut the ragged crowd followed us like a herd of hungry wolves. In ancient times, before the fall of the Roman Empire, Baia was a great wateringplace, and the desolate ruins of splendid baths, palaces, and temples are seen here at various points. On a height overlooking the bay there is a fort. which is the only structure we saw here in good repair. We gathered curious shells and pumicestones from the seashore, and on our way home we were conveyed along by Lake Avernus, “regarded by the ancients as the entrance to the infernal regions on account of its somber situation and envi

Tradition affirmed that no bird could fly across it and live, owing to the poisonous exhalations, and that the neighboring ravines were the

rons.

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