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various sensations of affection and veneration, of joy and of sorrow, of hope and of fear, displayed in the countenances and gestures of the disciples, might express their various apprehensions of the mysterious rite. In the midst sits the great founder, dispensing with unshaken firmness, from either hand, the emblems of his own approaching suffering. The agitation of the disciples is marked by their contrasted attitudes and various expressions. Treachery and inhumanity seem to be concentrated in the form
and features of Judas Iscariot. In representing the · countenance of Christ he found, however, the pow
ers of the artist inadequate to the conception of his own mind. To step beyond the limits of earth, and to diffuse over those features a ray of divinity, was his bold but fruitless attempt. The effort was often renewed, and as often terminated in disappointment and humiliation. Despairing of success, he disclosed his anxiety to his friend and associate, Bernardo Zenale, who advised him to desist from all further endeavors, and in consequence of which this great work was suffered to remain imperfect.” The size of this picture is fifteen by thirty feet.
In the evening we went into the great Cathedral, which, by many travelers, is regarded as the most majestic and beautiful in the world. It had been a great day there, but we arrived only in time to see a long line of priests leaving for their cloisters, and the removal from the altar of a number of silver saints -- statues, of full size, in solid silver-all of which we saw in the sacristy to-day, after which we spent an hour or two on top of the building, the whole of which, including the roof, its ninety-eight pinnacles, and its innumerable statues, is of white marble. Some travelers have stated the number of
statues in the interior and on the outside as high as seven thousand, with places for three thousand more. Here is a true picture by Tennyson:
“O Milan, O the chanting quires,
The height, the space, the gloom, the glory!
I stood among the silent statues,
A thousand shadowy-penciled valleys
The interior is hardly less imposing than the exterior. "Its double aisles, its clustered pillars, its lofty arches, the luster of its walls, its numberless niches filled with marble figures-give it an appearance novel even in Italy, and singularly majestic. Its works of art, consisting of paintings, statuary of various kinds, bronze as well as marble, monuments to distinguished persons, etc., with nearly four hundred representations of Scriptural subjects on the stained glass of the choir windows, afford boundless satisfaction to the visitor. We should not forget to speak of one other thing we saw on our visit here: Within a circular railing, twenty feet or more in circumference, near the altar, a white covering had been spread on the floor, and a choir boy was engaged in gathering into a bag thousands of soldi or sous that had been thrown in there by the faithful worshipers, literally covering the floor with them.
In the Picture Gallery here are many noted paintings of Rubens, Tintoretto, Paul Veronese, Bellini, Giotto, Leonardo, and other distinguished artists.
Among these we were particularly impressed with one by Bellini, representing "St. Mark Preaching at Alexandria," and another by Paul Veronese, depicting “Christ in the House of the Pharisee."
The extensive arcade recently constructed here is a magnificent improvement. It takes in parts of four streets, forming a cross, entirely spanned by glass roofs. The buildings below the base of the arches are five stories high. There is a dome in the center, and therefrom wings extend the length of a square in each direction. Within this arcade are a large number of the finest shops, and in the evening when we were there it was thronged with people. The dome, which is much broader than that of our Capitol, in like manner with ours was lighted by a circular row of gas jets.
VERONA, NOVEMBER 6.-We reached Como from Milan last evening. It is a charming place. This morning, after visiting an interesting old cathedral, the market, etc., we took the steamer for Varenna, a tumble-down village on the east side of the lake, some three hours' sail, via Bellagio, another delightful summer resort on a point of land between Lake Como and another part of that lake called Lake Lecco. The scenery was charming, but the season, of course, was too far advanced to show all its beauties. We had for companions Mr. Stickney and wife and Rev. Mr. Sumner, all of whom had traveled with us from Geneva. At Varenna we hired a comfortable two horse carriage and rode over a smooth turnpike for two hours and a half, along the lake shore to Lecco, where, after a good dinner at a hotel, and a view of this singular old town, we took the cars for Bergamo, on the main line from Milan to Verona and Venice. This turn
pike, much of the way, was cut out of the mountains, and at two points it runs a considerable distance through tunnels. Other portions are bordered by grape vines, olive and mulberry trees, with occasional fig trees and box-wood growing spontaneously. The carriage ride was very romantic, and we all enjoyed it better even than the sail on the lake. When we reached Bergamo it had commenced to rain, and the night being dark we were shut out from all view until we arrived, near midnight, at Verona, where we now rest.
Having, in the early part of October, 1867, made the trip from Milan to Venice by daylight, in company with his son Henry Franklin, the writer is enabled to give a brief description of the route. When at a little past six in the morning we took the cars at Milan the ground was covered with frost. At ten we were at Brescia, the ride thus far being through flat, wet country, possessing little interest, except the city of Bergamo, a walled town on the side of a hill, which we passed at half-past eight, and which presented a novel appearance. At eleven we were at Desenzano, on Lake Garda, a beautiful sheet of water stretching off to the mountains on our left.
All the way from Milan are forests of mulberry trees. They have the shape of an apple tree, and here and there the peasants were carefully picking the green leaves from their limbs. There were here also many grape vines running in festoons from one mulberry tree to another. We next came to Peschiera, where there are formidable fortifications on the left, embracing a village, which faces Lake Garda, and the whole is upon a small island. There is also a strong fort on the right. Our time being limited, we stopped at Verona only to dine,
and did not leave our seats at Padua; but near the station at the latter place we saw men engaged in expressing the juice from cart loads of grapes by trampling upon them barefooted and bare-legged. These vehicles served both for carts and vats—the cart-body being made tight so as to hold the wine until drawn off. This is probably the primitive mode of making wine.
you, I'll tell you as we pass along, That you will wonder what hath fortuned.
-Two Gentlemen of Verona.
) ZYG attended service at two of the Roman Catholic churches, both very ancient, and also the Waldensian Protestant Mission, where we arrived in time to hear part of a sermon by the Italian pastor, Rev. Stefano Revels. As he preached in the Italian language we were able to comprehend but very little of what he said; but, nevertheless, we were impressed with his apparent solemnity and eloquence of manner, and enjoyed the sweet singing of the choir. The service was in a small room entered through two others, one of which is used for their Sunday School, and over the door of which, in Italian, is this verse: “Know ye not that ye are the temple of God, and that the spirit of God dwelleth in you?” The following verses were on the walls of the lecture room: 1–“Jesus saith unto her, Go call thy husband and come hither.” 2—“For we are