Louis XV. The only remaining descendant of this family now resides in Geneva, and is supported mainly by charity. In Voltaire's bed-room are two other small paintings; one a portrait of his washerwoman, and the other, a handsome face, of his chimney sweep in an Italian hat. The floor of the parlor is of wood, handsomely inlaid. In this room is an urn containing the ashes of Voltaire's heart. The house has beautiful surroundings, and it must have been a very fine one in its day. We walked through the long arbor where he used to go for exercise, and in which, we were told he sometimes did his writing. Near the northern entrance to the chateau is a small building with a clock-tower, and the name of Voltaire appears under the clock - face. This, we understood, was his church, but we think it is not used for religious services now. From this point a magnificent view is obtained of Mont Blanc. In the evening we went to hear a lecture by Monsieur Taine, the celebrated French author, before the College of Geneva. It was upon the life and manners of the French people before their revolution, from the time of Louis XI. to Louis XVII. The public hall was crowded by attentive listeners, among whom we observed Père Hyacinthe. Monsieur Taine is a man, we should judge, about fifty years of age. His height is about five feet, ten inches, frame spare and muscular, and his movement active. He wears his whiskers and beard, which are black, with a slight mixture of gray, cut short.

We have been several times to hear Père Hyacinthe, who conducts his services and preaches in the French language. Although we could not understand him as well as we could wish, we felt

sensibly the influence of his magnetism and eloquence. He is undoubtedly an accomplished elocutionist and orator, and, without being a very large man, his presence is at once commanding and graceful. We sat near his wife and little son Paul, of whom they are said to be very proud, as they have a right to be, for he is a fine-looking boy, and may live to become as eloquent as his namesake. congregation was comparatively small.

The

There is a beautiful Greek Church here, richly frescoed in the interior, and the floor is covered by a handsome carpet, on which the people either stand or kneel, there being few or no seats. On a Sunday we were present for a short time near the close of the services, which were peculiar. The music, entirely vocal, was very fine. The Cathedral Church of St. Peter, where we have also attended Protestant services, is by far the more important. This church dates back to the eleventh century, and is fraught with many stirring events in the history of Geneva. Without going further back, when the Roman Catholics held sway here, years before John Calvin made his appearance, Farel and other Protestant reformers had succeeded in abolishing Romanism from the city, and St. Peter's, we believe, has ever since been in the possession of the Protestants. The same pulpit from which Calvin preached still remains in its place. Expelled from France, of which country he was a native, he was passing through Geneva as a fugitive when, being recognized by his Protestant brethren, he was prevailed on to remain, and finally became the dictator of the city. In an old French volume which a friend loaned us to read here, it is stated that when Calvin first came here he was a young man, and that he was

so pale and sickly in appearance many thought he had but a few years at most to live.

In the Rath Museum there is a collection of fine pictures, among them one representing "The Death of Calvin," and another, "Bonnivard in Castle Chillon." In the Academic Museum are many fine specimens of Zoology and Geology. Immense pieces of white and smoked crystal quartz in their native state excited our wonder and admiration.

One pleasant afternoon we took a walk to the Chateau Diodati, situated about one mile and a half from the city on the southeast side of the lake. In 1816 this Chateau was the residence of Lord Byron, and this is where he wrote some or all of his "Manfred" and portions of "Childe Harold." It is snuggled in among the trees, with a balcony on the lake side, the room in which he wrote looking out also upon the lake. We saw his bed, table, chairs, and other furniture used by him in this room. There are many charming residences on both sides of the lake, among them the princely chateau of Baron Adolphe Rothschild on the northwest side, in or near Little Saconnex. Just in the suburbs of the city is a large old mansion, now in a dilapidated condition, with a large lawn in front. It was at one period the residence of Voltaire, and for a few days in 1867 the writer and his younger son occupied a chamber in it as boarders-the family with whom they were boarding having removed there. We observed nothing remarkable about it except that the dining-room, very high posted, as were all the other first story rooms, was unusually spacious, and the large panels of its walls were embellished with landscape paintings. Had these paintings the power of speech they could, without doubt, narrate many an interesting

story in the gay life of Voltaire and his congenial associates.

We have made here the acquaintance of a very pleasant gentleman and his accomplished wife, by the name of Saltzman. He is a retired watch manufacturer. In company with Mr. Consul Upton, wife, and sister, we had the honor one day of dining with them. We mention this for the purpose of introducing a touching personal incident of the occasion. We will premise by saying that when the writer was at Geneva in 1867, Mr. Upton had two interesting daughters, Lucie and Estella, both young ladies grown. The latter, however, was then a suffering invalid, and died not very long afterward. Lucie subsequently married a Greek gentleman of fine character and went with him to reside in Greece, where they were blessed by the birth of a son, and, sorrowful to tell, the mother soon thereafter followed her sister to the spirit-land. At the dinner table Mr. Upton was led to speak of a melancholy pilgrimage he had not long before made to the home and grave of this cherished daughter; and he repeated, in a tone and with a pathos we shall never forget, some lines he had written in allusion to this sad journey over the sea. At our special request he sent us the next day a copy of those lines, and we give them as they appear before us in his own plain hand:

A CONCEIT.

Float me safely, dark blue waves,
O'er the Mediterranean sea-

A living tie between two graves,
go, their spirit-tie to be.

From where Estella lies in gloom,
A rose, an autumn rose, I bear,

TURIN, NOVEMBER 4.—We have now fairly en

tered upon what we undertook not without some apprehension of sickness-a trip to Italy. We have heard a great deal about the deadly malaria of the Campagna, and of the debilitating and often fatal Roman fever, and we should leave a

*We should not have ventured thus to raise the vail which concealed this sacred reminiscence from the public eye, but that we are obliged to record here, as we do in deep sorrow, the death of our dear friend, the author of this little poem-itself a gem. He died suddenly, supposed from heart disease, on the night of June 17, 1877. Mr. Upton had held the office of United States Consul at Geneva since his appointment by President Lincoln in the spring of 1861. In addition to this, he was from time to time called on to perform the duties of United States Minister for Switzerland during the absence of that officer; and on the 23d of January, 1877, after the Swiss mission had been reduced to that of a Charge d' Affaires and Mr. Rublee had resigned, Secretary Fish gave him the appointment, outside of his consulship, of Charge d'Affaires ad interim, and he held this office until his death. Admirably qualified by his ability, education, and courtesy of demeanor for any such position, he was ever most faithful to his trust.