distinguished Frenchman. The statue is on an elevated base in a sitting posture. It has for sentinels a flock of beautiful swans, whose lodge is near by. They glide gracefully over this part of the lake and river, sometimes also flying from one point to another. They are so fascinating to grown as well as little children that they are seldom without crackers and sweet cakes on their board, and they appear to be free from care and in the enjoyment of perfect happiness. The tongue of slander nor the sting of ingratitude ever disturbs their perfect composure: Who would not be a swan? Bath houses and wash sheds are erected over the river far enough from the shore to have the advantage of the swift stream. The latter face the shore, and at all times of day washerwomen, in long rows, may be seen hard at work washing clothes in the river. Their washboards reach into the water, and after applying a liberal quantity of soap and rubbing the clothes, throw them over a projecting bar arranged to secure them, and the rapid stream does the rinsing. The borders of the lake and river for miles around are protected by a substantial wall raised to a level with the streets, and the lake steamers and sailing vessels come directly up to this wall as their place of landing. Further up there is a breakwater extending out from either side of the lake, notwithstanding which, however, when what is called the bise takes place, which we have felt, the waters are thrown over into the streets. The bise is a violent north wind, which, sweeping down from the whole length of the lake, powerfully agitates the waters, as the waves of the ocean break upon the coast in a storm. The manner of setting the sails on the sailing vessels, called "mouches" (flies) here, gives them the

appearance at a distance of enormous birds about to alight on the water with their wings extended upward.

We were surprised on the first of October to see wild strawberries on our table for dessert. They were about the size of the field strawberry of New England, but more oblong and pointed in shape, and not as sweet. We did not learn where they came from, but probably from the sunny side of the mountain or valley, as we observed here and there one on the Col de Balme and in the valley of Chamouni. They are, no doubt, sold at a moderate price, else grapes, which are plenty at from six to eight cents per pound, would be served instead. Delicious plums, too, are here in abundance and cheap. Peaches are scarce, and the only really fine ones we have seen we found in Vienna and Munich.

In

The "English Garden" is a small inclosure in front of the eastern part of the old city, extending for a short distance along the foot of the lake. this garden, laid out in grand walks bordered by shrubbery and flowers, with scattering trees, there is a neat cottage building, where there is a "Relief of Mont Blanc," presenting a correct description in miniature of this monarch of mountains, the top of which is to be seen to good advantage from the west side of the river or foot of the lake. Early after sunset in Geneva, on clear evenings, many lovers of the grand and beautiful go to this locality to feast their eyes upon the splendid sight of Mont Blanc, looming above all other mountains and smiling still in the varied hues of a bright sunshine. It is indeed a most charming picture.

We have been happy to meet here our Minister, Hon. Mr. Rublee, and also our battle-scarred vet

eran, General Heintzelman, with his pleasant wife and daughter. We have passed an hour most agreeably at Mr. Bremond's manufactory of music boxes and other musical instruments, where we saw and heard various kinds of music boxes, chairs, books, and bottles, and charming artificial singing birds. Take a seat in his chairs, handle his books, or go to turn over his bottles, and they will at once strike up and discourse sweet music. Some of his instruments are in the shape of a cathedral of beautiful carved work; others of a rustic sawmill, arranged with spiral glass tubes moved by the machinery to represent the fall of water, and others in the usual form of music boxes, finished in the highest style. You can have your choice in kind as well as price-paying for each instrument from fifteen francs up to two thousand dollars at your pleasure. Apropos of this establishment, Mr. Upton told us of a good pun which our genial and witty "Grace Greenwood" threw off a few days ago when she with a party of friends was here. They were on the way to visit the establishment; but some of the gentlemen having to walk while the rest rode, Mr Upton, who was in the carriage, gave those on foot the direction by saying they would know the house by the sign of a lyre on its roof. "Yes," quickly added Grace; "and when you see that lyre, it will tell the truth."

CHAPTER XXXI.

ENEVA, OCTOBER 30.-We have now been here

a month, and the weather, a large part of the time, has been wet and disagreeable. Nevertheless, Geneva is an agreeable stopping - place, even in the wet season, to travelers going to or returning from Italy; and there is always a large number of strangers here. There are, we know not how many, firstclass hôtels here, and many excellent private boarding houses, all within easy distance of one another; and one never need be at a loss for pleasant company, leaving out the resident population, among whom are many cultivated and refined people. We have in our boarding house Rev. Abel Stevens, author of the "History of Methodism in the United States," and his amiable wife, whom, among others here, we have found exceedingly pleasant company; and in the family of Mr. Consul Upton, near by, we are always made to feel as though at home. Then the Rev. Leonard Woolsey Bacon, pastor of the American church and editor of the Swiss Chronicle here, who with his family, consisting of his wife, eight children, and two interesting lady cousins, resides at Petit Saconnex, gives a reception every Thursday evening from four to ten o'clock, to which all Americans especially are invited. We have spent one evening most agreeably with them. Their residence is in the country, about two miles from our boarding house. Refreshments were set out at six o'clock. After this we had several pieces of music by two of Mr. Bacon's sons and their teacher, on the violin, Mr. Bacon himself, who is an accomplished musician and composer, accompanying them on a

violoncello. Following these, Madame, wife of General Fluck, of the Austrian army, also present, performed a number of pieces on the piano in a superior manner. Thus, with music and conversation, these evenings are very enjoyable.

One day we went to Ferney, which is in France, a distance of some five miles from the city, to see Voltaire's chateau. Only two rooms, the parlor and a bed-room, both on the ground floor, are shown to visitors, and these remain just as he left them at his death. His parlor stove is quite a huge affair, and his lounge and most of the other furniture are rather common, but some of his chairs were handsomely embroidered-the work of his niece, whose portrait on the walls of one of the rooms shows her to have been a beautiful woman. His own portrait and marble bust are also preserved here, as well as the portraits of Frederick the Great and Queen Catherine II. of Russia. There are likewise engraved likenesses of Milton, Racine, Corneille, Newton, the Calas family, Washington, and Franklin. That of Washington is unlike any other we have ever seen, and it is probably the only one of the kind extant. Of the Calas family, the likenesses of the mother, one son, two daughters, and man and maid servant are given. The history of this family is doubtless known to most of our readers. Jean Calas, the head of the family and a Protestant, was cruelly executed in 1762, at Toulouse, on the charge of murdering one of his own sons to prevent his secession from Protestantism; and subsequently, through the efforts of Voltaire and others, a reversal of the judgment of guilty against him was obtained; he and the family were declared innocent, and a pension of thirty thousand francs was granted to the family by