go on foot; and it was nearly two o'clock when we arrived at the Tip-top House. On this part of the route we had to cross a field of snow, from which we made snow-balls which we carried to quench our thirst, for the day was very warm; and beyond this field our path was up the side of a ledge so steep that for some distance we had to incline forward and hold on by our hands, steps being cut in the rocks to avoid falling over backward. Then further on for a quarter of a mile our way was over a bed of loose rocks, large and small, till at length we reached the highest point. From this dizzy height we observed plainly, with a good field glass, two parties who had just attained the summit of Mont Blanc, which, with the rugged peaks of many other mountains before us, and the valley between, afforded, we imagine, one of the wildest and grandest views in the world. After enjoying this grand picture of the Alps for an hour or more, we began our descent, which was more dangerous even than the ascent; but we all got over the fearful pass in safety, and rollicking across and down the steep fields of snow, we soon came to the mule station, from whence we returned, also on foot, by the way of Flegère to our comfortable quarters in the village. A RGENTIÈRE is a small hamlet through which we passed on our way to Chamouni, where we still remain, September 27th. It is situated at the foot of a glacier about five miles from the latter place, and, like Chamouni, is a pleasant summer resort for travelers. The Mer de Glace extends to within a few miles of the village of Chamouni on the north, and on the other side, nearer, at the foot of Mont Blanc, is the Glacier de Bossons, to which we one day started to walk, but were overtaken by the rain and were obliged to relinquish the undertaking. Our effort, however, was not without compensation, as our walk took us into the country by several cabins occupied by the peasantry and their cattle, and the rain furnishing us a good excuse to enter, we had the opportunity of observing somewhat of the domestic life of these humble people. In a rough shed by one cabin they were breaking and hatcheling flax, as we used to see it done on the farm long years agone. We were more interested at another cabin, into which we were driven by the rain, now increased to a fierce storm, at the point where we were compelled to turn about. It was the home of an old mountain guide, now eighty-five, whose name is Couttet, a near relative of our land lord of the Pension Couttet, who has also been employed many years as a guide and resigned with marked rewards of merit. While the rain was pouring, this veteran guide related to us something of his history, giving account of the many times he had pioneered travelers, among whom were Ruskin and Albert Smith, of English fame, to the summit of Mont Blanc and safely down again. There is but one door to his cabin, and we sat on stools in the narrow hallway, out of one end of which, extending. nearly along the whole front of the building, there is a door to the rooms occupied by himself and daughter, and from the other end a door to the apartment devoted to their cattle. When the cattle came home for shelter we had to rise to let them pass. The daughter looks as coarse and sunburnt and almost as old as her father. Both were very kind to us, and appeared very thankful for the few sous we were happy to give them for their hospitality. Having no idea of being caught in such a storm, we were not well prepared for it, and when we reached our boarding house we were pretty well drenched. GENEVA, OCTOBER 6.—At half-past seven on the morning of September 28th, Mr. Evans and daughter having preceded us a day or two earlier, we left Chamouni by diligence and arrived in Geneva at half-past two. For two-thirds of the way or more, until we come in sight of the Jura mountains west of Geneva, the scenery is of the wildest character. The road runs between high mountains for many miles along the banks of the Arve "Born where the thunder and the blast, And morning's earliest light are born," as Bryant writes of it, thus continuing: "Not from the sands or cloven rocks, Thou rapid Arve! thy waters flow; Thy dark, unfathomed walls below. In some places the river passes through deep gorges and over steep, rocky beds, surging along with fearful force and velocity. It was a grand sight to look from the top of the diligence - it was two stories high-away down into these gorges, as we were carried along right upon the edge of the precipice. We passed through several villages, and at one point, where we crossed the river on a stone bridge five hundred feet in length, we obtained a magnificent view of Mont Blanc. The view of this "Alpine Monarch" from this bridge is said to be the grandest and most satisfactory anywhere to be had of it. Not far from Cluses we passed near the mouth of the Grotto of Balme, which extends into the mountain nearly two thousand feet, and is regarded as a great natural curiosity. Here and there along the road are shrines, similar to what we saw by the highways in other parts of Switzerland, as well as in Austria. Generally they consist of a small structure just large enough to hold a figure, either in sculpture or painting, of the Crucifix or the Virgin; but sometimes only the Cross is presented. It is difficult to give a faithful description of this day's journey; suffice it to say, that but for the rather too cold weather in the morning, the ride all the way would have been unsurpassed in everything calculated to enhance our enjoyment. Italy being our next objective point, we are now comfortably settled in Geneva, probably for a month, the winter season being the safest if not the best time to visit that land of the vine, olive, and figtree. Through the kind attention of our Consul, Hon. Charles H. Upton, and his estimable wife, we are pleasantly situated in a private boarding house, or pension, fronting on Lake Leman. The city is built on both sides of the lower end of the lake, or what might as well be called the Rhone -for the lake is only an expansion of the riverwhich is narrowed here, and, joining the Arve one mile below, flows on to the sea. Like all the Alpine streams from the snowy regions, the waters of the Arve have a milky appearance, and it is curious to observe how they retain this color in contradistinction to the dark waters of the Rhone at the junction of the two rivers. The two flow rapidly along, side by side, in the same channel, for a mile, more or less, before they mingle and the Arve loses itself in the Rhone. This is one of the interesting sights of Geneva. At a point just above where the two rivers unite there is a bridge over the Arve, leading to a beautiful estate on its southwestern banks-a pleasant resort in hot days. The Rhone runs with great force through the city, dividing and forming a considerable island in the southern part thereof. This island is covered with buildings, mostly, we believe, manufacturing establishments, the machinery in which is moved by water. Two substantial bridges connect the island with the main land on both sides. The river is spanned by two other fine long bridges nearer the lake, and from one of these is a foot-bridge to Rousseau's Island, a small spot of ground in the river, ornamented by shade trees and a handsome bronze statue of that |