Imagini ale paginilor
PDF
ePub

women carrying upon their heads large tubs filled with wine and beer bottles. The dress of the common people is different from any we have seen elsewhere every Canton in Switzerland has its peculiar costume, differing one from the other; and here is a truck so long that it requires a man with a rudder in the rear end to guide it through the streets. Another noticeable thing is the absence of soldiers, with the sight of whom we had become so familiar, particularly in Germany and Austria.

We have spent a part of two days in a trip to Ragatz, three hours by rail from Zurich, where we were most happy to meet an esteemed acquaintance and friend, Rudolph Schleiden, LL. D., formerly for many years the minister from Bremen to the United States. Indeed, we went there purposely to see him, as, in response to a dispatch from us, he telegraphed: "I am here, and most happy to learn that I may expect you." He stood ready at the door of the Quellenhoff to receive us, as we alighted from our carriage. Of course, we talked over old affairs, particularly in reference to the Bremen Postal Convention of 1853, with which he and the writer had much to do. Both were advocates of low postage, and immediately agreed on a project, which was confirmed by the proper authorities, reducing the letter rate between the United States and Bremen from twenty to ten cents-twenty cents being then the lowest rate from the United States to any part of Europe, and this applied only to the city of Bremen. The next lowest rates were twenty-four cents to Great Britain and thirty cents to Germany. Now five cents takes a letter to any part of Europe. For several years after his departure from the United States, Dr. Schleiden served as a member of the

Prussian Parliament. His residence is at Freibourg, Baden.

Dinner over, Dr. Schleiden called a carriage and we rode two miles or more into the gorge of Tamina, an opening in the mountain where the walls, two hundred and fifty feet in height, come so near together at the top that in some places one may step across from one side to the other. For much of the way there is space only for the carriage road at the side and above the rapid stream which is one of the principal tributaries of the Rhine. At the end of the carriage-way is an old monastery, now used for a hospital and bathing house. From here we walked about three hundred yards further up the gorge to a hot spring, which we reached by turning into a dark tunnel, dug through the solid rock, at right angles from the stream, a distance of five or six rods. We drank of the water, which is as hot as one usually likes to take his tea. We did not detect any taste of sulphur or other mineral; therefore, we conclude that if the water is heated from the regions of his Satanic majesty, some means have been devised to avoid the smell of brimstone. This water is carried in wooden pipes, securely encased in masonry, to one or more of the hotels in the village, where it is used for bathing-hundreds of invalids resorting thither every year to try its healing qualities. It reaches the baths, two or three miles distant, with only two degrees less of heat than it possesses when it comes out of the mountain.

The scenery around Ragatz and for much of the way between there and Zurich is grand beyond description. The road takes us along the full length of the narrow Lake of Wallenstadt twelve miles, and between high rugged mountains. The valley

through which we passed is loaded with its grain, corn, and fruits of various kinds; and the people appeared to be in the enjoyment of almost perfect happiness, so far removed are they from the busy, bustling world.

CHAPTER XXV.

UCERNE, SEPTEMBER 13.-We were so pleasantly situated in Zurich that we would gladly have tarried there longer; but we must get over the mountains to Chamouni before cold weather. and there is little time to spare. A ride of one hour and a half by railroad brought us to Lucerne, where we find ourselves at another excellent boarding house, located, with reference to the lake, similarly to our house in Zurich. We passed through Zug and one or two other villages, and the scenery all the way is very beautiful. Lucerne is situated at the northeastern end of the lake of that name, and is separated by the river Reuss, which is spanned by three bridges, two of which are curiosities in their way. They are covered, and on the ceiling of one of them "are numerous pictures representing episodes in the lives of St. Leger and St. Maurice, patron saints of the city." The other "is ornamented with thirty-six pictures representing the Dance of Death." By the side of the latter, in the middle of the river, there is an ancient and picturesque tower, in which the archives of the city are kept. The old wall of the city on the land side, surmounted by numerous watch-towers, still stands, extending around from

shore to shore, and from this wall, which is mostly on high ground, a charming view of the city, lake, and mountains is obtained. On the left is Mount Righi and on the right Mount Pilatus. There is a railroad from Vitznau on the lake to the top of the Righi; but we felt safe in the village and concluded not to go there. While weighing the matter a poor German girl fell from a point near the summit and was killed. No one saw her fall, but it was supposed that she lost her balance in reaching for flowers. This circumstance may have turned the scale against our going, but we knew we must climb high mountains before reaching the valley of Chamouni, and from these we hope to get extended views, equal, at least, to any from the Righi.

The principal object of attraction here is "Thorwaldsen's Lion," of colossal size, cut in high relief out of the side of a sandstone ledge. He was a native of Denmark, and at that time (1821) engaged in his profession at Rome, whence he sent the model, and the work was executed by Ahorn, of Constance. The figure of the Lion is twenty-eight feet long and eighteen feet high. He "holds the fleur-de-lis in his paws, which he endeavors to protect with his last breath, his life-blood oozing from a wound made by a spear which still remains in his side." This monument, as appears by a Latin (inscription under the figure, is dedicated to the officers (twenty-six) and soldiers (seven hundred and sixty) of the Swiss Guards who died in Paris in 1792 defending the royal cause. It is in every respect unique. It has for its foundation and support the solid ledge, which rises thirty feet, more or less, perpendicularly, overhung with evergreen vines, and at the base is a pool of spring water within a railing. Near by is what

they call the Glacier Gardens, where immense basins. have been worn in the ledge by the action of heavy bowlders moved by the falling waters.

The most attractive shops here are those of wood and ivory carvings, which, as everybody knows, are very wonderful. They show great ingenuity and industry.

An excursion by steamboat to Fluelen, the southern end of the lake, and back occupied one day full of enjoyment. Lucerne, regarded as the most beauful in Switzerland, is also called the Lake of the Four Cantons; and it extends around between the mountains for many miles, presenting, with its arms -to Kussnacht northerly and southerly to Alpnacht-somewhat the shape of a cross. The boat stops at many landings, and the traveler may, if he choose, rest at any one of them and take a subsequent boat on his return ticket. We landed first at Fluelen, the end of the route, whence carriages run to Altorf, two miles, where there is a rough statue of William Tell, said to be on the spot where he stood when he shot the apple from his son's head, and the exact distance his son stood from him is there marked down. On the eastern shore of the lake, near Fluelen, is a small shrine, built in 1388, called Tell's Chapel. It stands at the point where he sprang ashore from a boat, in which he was being conveyed as a prisoner, and made his escape. It is called "The Mecca of Switzerland," as on every Sunday after Easter "a procession of boats, richly decorated, proceeds slowly to this chapel, where, after mass is celebrated, a patriotic sermon is preached to the worshiping pilgrims." A few miles further north, near the opposite bank, is a high perpendicular rock, bearing in gilded letters an in

« ÎnapoiContinuă »