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were crowded within it, at one and the same time, on the day the statue was raised. There are many other monuments, not as conspicuous, but equally attractive, here, as ornaments of the various public squares and principal streets, which are spacious and beautiful. There is the Charles Gate and Gate of Victory, the latter, especially, a most imposing structure, "built after the model of Constantine's Triumphal Arch at Rome." It is crowned by a colossal statue of Bavaria in a triumphal chariot, harnessed with four lions. Finer still is the Propylæum, "a triumphal arch in the old Doric style, with bas-reliefs, commemorating the modern Greek War of Independence and King Otho." The equestrian statues of Louis I. and Maximilian II., both of colossal size, are specially grand. There are also monuments here to Goethe, Schiller, and other distinguished Germans. Altogether, we are charmed with Munich.

Z

CHAPTER XXIV.

URICH, SEPTEMBER 8.—We left our boardinghouse in Munich at half-past six on the morning of the 1st instant. It rained hard when we started, but the clouds soon disappeared, and the afternoon was very pleasant. At Lindau, where we changed from the cars to the steamboat on Lake Constance, there is a fine harbor formed by substantial circular walls, quite ornamental, leaving an opening only sufficient for the passage of vessels. Upon the abutment of the wall at one side of this

opening stands a light-house, and on the other, sitting on a high pedestal, is a colossal lion, looking seaward. The effect is both striking and beautiful. Near the steamboat landing there is a monument to Maximilian II. The lake is thirty-five miles long and eight miles wide. The Rhine passes through it, as the channel of the Rhone goes the whole length of Lake Leman. The shores are lined with small villages and country villas, presenting a charming picture. Our sail on the lake to Romanshorn was delightful. Here we took the cars for Zurich, arriving at half-past four, after a most agreeable passage. Remembering that this was the day of a golden wedding of some of our relatives in the old Pine Tree State, we celebrated it in a suitable manner in our snug compartment on the train, after leaving Romanshorn. Our kind landlady in Munich, Fräulein Dahlweiner, had provided us with a nice lunch, consisting of ham sandwiches, cold chicken, bread, pears, peaches, and grapes, and availing ourselves of a short stop at a small station, we got our lager glass filled with vin ordinaire, so that we were enabled to do full honors to the occasion-drinking the health of the happy couple, "and all their family."

Between Munich and Lindau the scenery is not remarkable; but from Romanshorn to Zurich it is picturesque and beautiful. The land along the road is all highly cultivated, and men and women were busily engaged gathering the crops and preparing the ground for winter grain. On our arrival at Zurich we were driven to the Hôtel Bauer au Lac; but not having telegraphed, the best accommodations that could be offered us were two single bedrooms on the fifth floor, in the attic, which we accepted for the night, with the promise of a good

room next day. This settled, we hastened to the consul's office for our letters, which we were most happy to receive from home, and then, seating ourselves on the margin of the lake in front of our hotel, we devoured them with a keen appetite, at the same time enjoying the beauties of the lake. On the following morning we called again at the office of our consul, S. H. M. Byers, Esquire, from Iowa, and were soon acquainted with each other. He had left his office when we called last evening. On his invitation we went, by steamboat, with him to his villa, five miles up the lake, and took dinner with the family, consisting of himself, wife, and two children, both born in Switzerland. They had as guests, also, Mr. Young, United States consul at Manheim, and his wife by a second marriage, an interesting German lady. The place rented by Mr. Byers was formerly occupied as a monastery, and goes under the name of "Wangensback." It forms part of a vineyard eight hundred years old. The sides of the house are covered with grape-vines loaded with grapes, which are protected from the birds by gauze network. In the surrounding fields the vines are not trained over trellisses, but on poles, six or eight feet long, driven into the ground; and from a little distance the vineyards look like New England corn-fields. There are few or no fences to guard them; but the law provides a severe penalty for the theft of even a single bunch of grapes. The residence chosen by Mr. Byers and his accomplished wife is just such a one as a poet would naturally choose; and he devotes all his leisure time to literary pursuits. He has held his office about six years, during which he has taken much pains. to collect information about Switzerland, and has

embodied it in a small volume just published. He first became known, we believe, as a writer by his song of "Sherman's March to the Sea," which the General has inserted in the second volume of his "Memoirs." It was written while a prisoner in Columbia, South Carolina, where, and in Libby Prison, he was confined some sixteen months. It shows how trifling a circumstance, comparatively, sometimes changes the current of a man's life. His song having been brought, incidentally, to General Sherman's notice, he at once sent for and attached him to his staff, he having then just escaped from the Columbia prison, where "there was an excellent glee club among the prisoners, who used to sing it well, with an audience often of rebel ladies." It consists of five stanzas and a chorus, commencing:

Our camp-fires shone bright on the mountain

That frowned on the river below,
As we stood by our guns in the morning,
And eagerly watched for the foe;
When a rider came out of the darkness

That hung over mountain and tree,
And shouted, "Boys, up and be ready!

For Sherman will march to the sea!"

The war over, he was in a favorable position for preferment, with influential friends to present his claims, and very soon he received the important appointment he now holds. Well, after dinner, at a seasonable hour, he returned to town with us and kindly assisted in our being established at the Pension Neptun, a delightful boarding house on the margin of the city and lake. Here we had little to do except to rest. Zurich is eligibly situated at the foot of the lake, extending for some distance along either side both of the lake and of the river

Limmet, its northern outlet. Many of the streets are wide; in the elevated parts there are fine promenades, presenting charming views of the lake and snow-clad mountains beyond, and there are numerous elegant residences, as well as large manufactories, public buildings, and churches. The University and Polytechnic Buildings are very prominent, as are also the Town Library and the great Cathedral. It was in this Cathedral, built in the eleventh or twelfth century, that Zuinglius began the Reformation. It is very plain and nearly destitute of ornaments in the interior. The Church of St. Peter, where Lavater used to hold forth, is a very common looking structure. This learned philosopher and divine, it may be remembered, died from a shot fired by a French soldier in the battle of Zurich, 1779.

In the old Arsenal many interesting relics are exhibited, among them what purport to be the battle-axe, sword, casque, and coat-of-mail of Zuinglius, and William Tell's bow which he used in shooting the apple from his son's head. The greatest curiosities we saw here are in the Museum, being relics of the inhabitants who lived away back in the age of barbarism, and, as a means of protection against their enemies, built their dwellings on piles in the lake. These relics have from time to time been found in the lake, and have been carefully preserved. Among them are rude earthen cooking utensils, hammers, arrows, and hatchets of stone, awkward looking fish-hooks, finger rings, and other articles.

The street sights are odd. Here are dogs harnessed into carts, pulling like good fellows, with their masters or mistresses, who assist in drawing heavy loads;

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