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One evening we went with our pastor and professor to a lager beer brewery, where one helps himself to a mug holding between one and two quarts, and gets it filled with beer from the tank. There were ladies along, and they were rather averse to partaking of the delicious beverage in so rustic a manner out of the common mug; but truth (so precious to some travelers that they are very sparing of it) compels us to record that the mug, or jug, as it is called here, was returned empty.
We spent a few hours delightfully one evening at the theater, where we heard and saw performed Wagner's opera of “Tannhäuser.” The curtain rose at six and the play was over by ten o'clock.
One beautiful afternoon we were driven beyond the city a mile or more to see the famous statue of Bavaria and Ruhmeshalle (Hall of Fame.) This fine hall, situated on high ground, “consists of a large Doric portico of Bavarian marble, forming three sides of a quadrangle and an open side, in the center of which rises Schwanthaler's colossal statue of Bavaria, about one hundred feet high, including the pedestal. There are forty-eight columns, with busts of eminent Bavarians. In the tympana are female statues, representing Bavaria, the Palatinate, Swabia, and Franconia, and in the frieze are upward of ninety metopes adorned with figures of victory and with reliefs symbolical of the arts and occupations of civilized society.” The statue, as it is well known, represents a female standing by the side of a lion, also of colossal size, in a sitting posture. It is ascended by a flight of forty-nine steps in the interior. Eight persons at one time may be comfortably seated within this lady's head; and it is said that as many as twenty-nine men and two boys were crowded within it, at one and the same time, on the day the statue was raised. There are many other monuments, not as conspicuous, but equally attractive, here, as ornaments of the various public squares and principal streets, which are spacious and beautiful. There is the Charles Gate and Gate of Victory, the latter, especially, a most imposing structure, “built after the model of Constantine's Triumphal Arch at Rome.” It is crowned by a colossal statue of Bavaria in a triumphal chariot, harnessed with four lions. Finer still is the Propylæum, “a triumphal arch in the old Doric style, with bas-reliefs, commemorating the modern Greek War of Independence and King Otho.” The equestrian statues of Louis I. and Maximilian II., both of colossal size, are specially grand. There are also monuments here to Goethe, Schiller, and other distinguished Germans. Altogether, we are charmed with Munich.
. -We house in Munich at half-past six on the morning of the 1st instant. It rained hard when we started, but the clouds soon disappeared, and the afternoon was very pleasant. At Lindau, where we changed from the cars to the steamboat on Lake Constance, there is a fine harbor formed by substantial circular walls, quite ornamental, leaving an opening only sufficient for the passage of vessels. Upon the abutment of the wall at one side of this opening stands a light - house, and on the other, sitting on a high pedestal, is a colossal lion, looking seaward. The effect is both striking and beautiful. Near the steamboat landing there is a monument to Maximilian II. The lake is thirty-five miles long and eight miles wide. The Rhine passes through it, as the channel of the Rhone goes the whole length of Lake Leman. The shores are lined with small villages and country villas, presenting a charming picture. Our sail on the lake to Romanshorn was delightful. Here we took the cars for Zurich, arriving at half-past four, after a most agreeable passage. Remembering that this was the day of a golden wedding of some of our relatives in the old Pine Tree State, we celebrated it in a suitable manner in our snug compartment on the train, after leaving Romanshorn. Our kind landlady in Munich, Fräulein Dahlweiner, had provided us with a nice lunch, consisting of ham sandwiches, cold chicken, bread, pears, peaches, and grapes, and availing ourselves of a short stop at a small station, we got our lager glass filled with vin ordinaire, so that we were enabled to do full honors to the occasion-drinking the health of the happy couple, “and all their family.”
Between Munich and Lindau the scenery is not remarkable; but from Romanshorn to Zurich it is picturesque and beautiful. The land along the road is all highly cultivated, and men and women were busily engaged gathering the crops and preparing the ground for winter grain. On our arrival at Zurich we were driven to the Hôtel Bauer au Lac; but not having telegraphed, the best accommodations that could be offered us were two single bedrooms on the fifth floor, in the attic, which we accepted for the night, with the promise of a good
room next day. This settled, we hastened to the consul's office for our letters, which we were most happy to receive from home, and then, seating ourselves on the margin of the lake in front of our hotel, we devoured them with a keen appetite, at the same time enjoying the beauties of the lake. On the following morning we called again at the office of our consul, S. H. M. Byers, Esquire, from Iowa, and were soon acquainted with each other. He had left his office when we called last evening. On his invitation we went, by steamboat, with him to his villa, five miles up the lake, and took dinner with the family, consisting of himself, wife, and two children, both born in Switzerland. They had as guests, also, Mr. Young, United States consul at Manheim, and his wife by a second marriage, an interesting German lady. The place rented by Mr. Byers was formerly occupied as a monastery, and goes under the name of “Wangensback.” It forms part of a vineyard eight hundred years old. The sides of the house are covered with grape-vines loaded with grapes, which are protected from the birds by gauze network. In the surrounding fields the vines are not trained over trellisses, but on poles, six or eight feet long, driven into the ground; and from a little distance the vineyards look like New England corn-fields. There are few or no fences to guard them; but the law provides a severe penalty for the theft of even a single bunch of grapes. The residence chosen by Mr. Byers and his accomplished wife is just such a one as a poet would naturally choose; and he devotes all his leisure time to literary pursuits. He has held his office about six years, during which he has taken much pains to collect information about Switzerland, and has