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ing torches; behind them is a figure of Benevolence supporting an old man bowed down by age and grief. A little child accompanies him, the very picture of innocence and sorrow. On the other side is an admirably drawn figure of a mourning genius, and at his feet crouches a melancholy lion. Over the entrance to the vault is a medallion of the Archduchess, held up by Happiness, while a genius is presenting her with a palm, indicative of success." We have a photograph of this monument. We visited both St. Stephen's and the Church of the Augustines, as well as that of the Capuchins.

Prader strasse is a grand boulevard, both for riding and walking; and the Volksgarten is also a place of great resort, especially in the evening, when Strauss' band plays. There are also other public gardens in other parts of the city. In the People's Garden, where we passed one evening, there are two fine equestrian statues of Austrian Emperors.

Our last day's sight-seeing in Vienna, or rather in its vicinity, was planned by our United States minister, Hon. Godlove S. Orth, and admirably conducted by him, who, with his wife, met us at Mödling, not far from their country residence, twelve or fifteen miles from the city, and went with us several miles further on to Laxenburg, another summer residence of the Emperor; thence to the fortress of the Empress Maria Theresa, called the Castle of Francenburg. The Palace of Laxenburg is comparatively modest for a royal residence, and the Emperor residing there at the time of our visit, it was not open to strangers. We were, however, admitted into all parts of the little castle, which was erected by Maria Theresa, in imitation of a feudal castle, and is a complete museum of anti

quities. It stands in the center of an artificial lake, which adds greatly to the beauty of the surrounding landscape, all within the grounds of the Palace. In one of the rooms there is a fac-simile of a chamber of torture, with its instruments, and in a small dungeon below, a full-sized figure of a man, representing a prisoner in a sitting posture; and as we stood gazing at him, we were startled by the sudden rising of his right arm and movement of his body as though alive. We soon saw that this was produced by a secret spring, touched by our guide unobserved by us; but the trick was well calculated to frighten one for the moment.

From Laxenburg we returned with Mr. and Mrs. Orth to Mödling, where their carriage was waiting to convey us all to their house in the mountains. Here we spent the remainder of the day, taking dinner with the family, consisting of the parents and their son and daughter, both nearly of age. They occupy a rented house, formerly occupied as a monastery, delightfully situated upon the side of a sharp hill, from which a charming view of mountain and valley is obtained. We are indebted to their kindness and courtesy for a full measure of enjoyment. On our way back to the railroad station we stopped to see the ruins of the old Castle of Lichtenstein, and reached our lodgings at Hotel Tauber early in the evening.

CHAPTER XXII.

MUNICH, AUGUST 22.-We were so much de

lighted with Vienna that we were reluctant to leave, and it is not a matter of surprise that so many of our patriots are willing to take up their residence there as Ministers of the United States. We were eight hours in reaching Salzburg, our next stopping place on the 20th of August, the hottest day we have felt in Europe, and one of the few in which summer clothing such as we wear at home would have been acceptable. The scenery along the route a part of the way was very beautiful. Salzburg, it may be remembered, is the place where the Emperors of France and Austria had a friendly meeting in the summer of 1867. It is situated on the swift river Salza, a considerable part of the town being built against the side of a steep mountain. There is a most romantic old castle here, now used principally as a barrack. It was built in the eleventh century, and long occupied as the residence and stronghold of some of the nobility. It stands on a high bluff, or ridge of rocks, overlooking the city. This ledge was tunneled in 1767 by the Archbishop Sigismund. We were driven through this tunnel out a short distance into the country, and also through the principal parts of the town, passing Mozart's house and monument. The streets are very narrow, and the houses quaint looking. The costumes of the people are peculiar. The women wear short gowns and petticoats with red or yellow aprons and black silk bandeaux.

A carriage ride of twenty miles, much of it on the banks of the Salza, which is filled by the melting of

the snow plainly visible on the mountains, while the valleys through which we passed to Lake Königs were smiling with the harvests and fruits of the season, was novel and romantic indeed. It took us among a strange people, the Tyrolese, where the Austrian money with which we started was at a discount, and where we were rowed by two strong women, with one man at the helm, for several miles on this lake, winding around between mountains. seven thousand feet high on either side, and looking at some points as though about to fall upon us. We stopped at St. Bartholomew, a hunting seat of the King of Bavaria, where there is a public house and a small chapel. Notwithstanding the great height of the mountains bordering this lake, which are covered generally with low evergreen trees, and although in no place is the lake more than about half a mile in width, the water is said to be, as it looked, very deep. So high, steep, and near together are the mountains that the reverberations from a small gun of the caliber of a horse-pistol were nearly as loud as the report of a cannon. We returned to the place of starting on the lake, the time occupied in each direction being three-quarters of an hour. On the way back to town some of our party had a still more novel experience in visiting the Hallein salt mines. On arriving there some fifteen or twenty travelers, of whom the writer was one, made preparations to enter. The ladies were required to put on caps and trowsers, the latter being large enough to admit their skirts, minus crinoline, while the gentlemen were furnished with frocks, overalls, and felt hats-both sexes being rigged out, also, each with a leather apron tied on behind, and each provided with a dull oil lamp or tallow candle to light them

on their way up an inclined plane through a narrow tunnel, a mile, more or less, into the side of a high hill or mountain. As one may well imagine, we presented a laughable appearance, and our most intimate acquaintances would have been unable to recognize us in this queer uniform. One thing, indeed, which puzzled us not a little was to divine the object of putting our aprons on behind instead of in front; but on this point we were not long kept in the dark, albeit, we soon found ourselves in a very dark place. This cone-shaped tunnel, in which carrails were laid, was of just sufficient width and height to admit of our walking comfortably in single file; but at distances of fifteen or twenty rods apart were recesses deep enough for standing room when the cars were passing, and, by stooping slightly, persons could pass each other in the narrowest part of the way. On the ground, along one side of the tunnel, runs an iron pipe, through which salt water is drawn from a lake in the interior, toward which, led by our guide, lamps and candles in hand, we were walking to the number of eight or ten (the rest of the company having preceded us) when we heard a rumbling sound, which we supposed to be of falling water, or from the working of machinery in the mines. Instantly, however, we were undeceived by a cry from the German guide, interpreted by one of our party, that a car was coming and that we must get out of the way, the guide at the same time turning and rushing by us as though frightened half out of his wits, thus increasing our alarm, while we all also turned and ran with the utmost speed we could command in this dark hole, and just succeeded in reaching one of those recesses above described when a car, a sort of wooden horse, loaded with passen

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