with fine dwellings and shops, but Prager strasse is the principal street for shopping. Here is the place to purchase damask table linen and enameled porcelain of every description. The traveler who stops to see the beautiful enameled brooches and other kindred things here should go prepared to carry some of them away, for there are nowhere in Europe more charming or desirable objects to purchase.

CHAPTER XXI.

IENNA, AUGUST 20.-After a pleasant sojourn of about two weeks in Dresden we left that city at 12:40 on the 16th of August, and arrived at Vienna near 8 o'clock next morning. The scenery along the river Elbe, between Dresden and Tschethin, a part of the country called Saxon Switzerland, is exceedingly bold and beautiful. Mounts Königstein and Lilienstein rise at some points to the height of twelve hundred feet in perpendicular columns, against which some of the inhabitants of the valley have built their houses, using these mountains for the rear walls thereof. These and many other houses on the way are quite odd in appearance, having in their roofs windows in the shape of eyes. Indeed, it is impossible to describe all the odd things that meet our sight, whether in country or city. All through Germany and Austria the costumes of the peasantry are more or less singular, and, as we have before remarked, it is a sight to behold the women, brown and stalwart, at work in the fields, reaping, mowing. gathering the crops, and doing men's work gener

ally, even to shoveling dirt and propelling the wheelbarrow in labor on railroads and other highways. We have seen them sawing and splitting fire-wood, and carrying it, and also coal, in huge baskets, from the streets up one or more flights of stairs-loads that one would think too heavy for the strongest man. In one instance we observed a man and woman, supposed to be husband and wife, sawing and splitting wood together. The saw was rigged with a handle at each end, and it was a wonder to see how quickly they would put it through a large stick of hard wood. There was no wrangling here about "woman's rights"- the woman being in every sense the equal of her husband. The women also attend the cattle, sheep, and geese in the fields, where there are no division fences. Of geese we have seen as many as two hundred in a single flock. It is laughable to see the railroad officials, all of whom are in uniform, as the train passes the smaller stations without stopping. At some of these, women as well as men are on guard, and as soon as the train nears the station, they may be seen standing erect and "dressed" as on parade, with hand to cap or hat by way of salute to the train guards, sometimes with one arm extended and pointing the way the train is going, as much as to say,. "The road is clear; go ahead." We may be no safer on railroads here than in our own country; but somehow we get to feel that we are, owing perhaps to the much larger number of officers actively connected with the roads, both at the stations and on the trains, all of whom appear to understand their business thoroughly and to have an eye to the safety of passengers.

We reached Lissa about sundown, at which place we changed conductors; but time was allowed there

for refreshments, and as our conductor was a gentleman wearing the uniform of an officer, and had been very polite to us, we invited him to join us in a glass of lager. This familiarity, as we afterward learned from an intelligent Bohemian lady, an English officer's wife whom we met there, was regarded as rather too democratic for this country, although she heartily approved of it. We ourselves, however, were innocent as General Grant would have been of anything out of place in this little act of courtesy, and we are free to say that we had no cause to regret it; for, through the good offices of that lady, or of the lager, or, more likely, of both combined, our conductor said a good word for us to his brother officer on the connecting train, and we had a whole compartment to ourselves all the way to Vienna, thus enabling us to secure as comfortable a night's rest as though we had been on a Pullman sleeping

car.

We need not say that Vienna is an exceedingly beautiful and attractive city; and of course we started at once to see the prominent objects of interest in town and vicinity. What was the old city is only some three miles in circumference, and where its walls or fortifications once stood is now a fine boulevard. Its streets are comparatively narrow, and it has altogether an ancient appearance, while the new, exterior portion is airy, with wide streets and more elegant buildings. The new additions have increased the size of the city to twelve miles in circumference. We went first to the Imperial Painting Gallery, in the Upper Belvidere. It is in a fine. palace, situated in a commanding position, with a spacious flower garden in front. There is a very large number of paintings in the different rooms,

nearly all of the celebrated old masters being represented. We took note of several with which we were particularly pleased, among them the celebrated "Ecce Homo," by Titian; "The Annunciation," by Paul Veronese; "Diana and Callisto with the Nymphs," by Titian; "The Saviour at the House of Simon the Leper, with Mary Magdalene at his Feet;" and "St. Andrew Refusing the Emperor Theodosius admission into the Church of Milan," by Rubens. Next we proceeded to the Armor Historical Gallery in the Lower Belvidere, where there is an extensive collection of armor of every description and a Museum of countless other things, including a variety of ancient musical instruments, jewelry, Eastern costumes, etc. An hour or two was passed here agreeably.

Schönbrunn, the summer residence of the Emperor, is situated a short distance from the city. It is a magnificent palace, and the grounds around it are exceedingly beautiful, being laid out into flower gardens and groves of shade trees, trimmed along the gravel walks to present perpendicular walls of green foliage, and adorned with sculpture and costly fountains. After being shown through the palace, which is furnished with everything to please the eye, we strolled through the grounds or rested in quiet contemplation, admiring their loveliness, and thinking of dear friends far away. In one of the rooms of the palace we saw a portrait of the unfortunate Maximilian, painted when he was a lad twelve or fourteen years of age, and a marble bust of him. as an adult. How sad the reflections excited by these likenesses! Induced by Napoleon III. to assume the scepter of power in a foreign land; Emperor in name only, for a brief period; betrayed,

condemned to death, and shot; his poor, devoted wife distracted, overwhelmed with grief, a hopeless maniac! It was melancholy also to remember that it was in this palace that the young Napoleon II., Duke of Reichstadt, died. In the vaults of the Church of Capuchins we looked upon his coffin, which is of copper, bearing a raised cross. Near by are the coffin of his grandfather, Emperor Francis I., and those of Joseph I., (this is of silver,) Joseph II., Maria Theresa, and some eighty others of the royal family. The latest is that of an uncle of the present Emperor. He died only a few months before our visit.

The Cathedral of St. Stephen is the largest and most graceful perhaps in the city. Its spire, said to be one of the tallest in the world, is very beautiful. From near its top a view may be had of the Danube on the margin of the city, and of the great battlefields of Wagram, Lobau, and Esling. Our guidebook states that the crypt of this church has been the burying place of the royal family for centuries, but for the last two hundred years only the bowels of the dead have been interred here, their bodies having been deposited in the Church of the Capuchins, and their hearts in the Church of the Augustines, which is another of the handsomest churches in the city. This last is specially noted for Canova's celebrated monument to the Archduchess Christine. "It consists of a pyramid of marble thirty feet high, in the center of which is an opening representing the entrance to the vault. This is reached by two broad marble steps, which are the base of the pyramid. Ascending the steps is a figure representing Virtue bearing an urn, which contains the ashes of the deceased. By her side are two little girls carry