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Door," on the north, is richly ornamented by figures showing the Wise and Foolish Virgins. The greatest treasure of this church is the world-renowned bronze “Shrine of St. Sebald,” by Vischer-1508– 1519. The admirable statues of the Twelve Apostles stand at the side of pillars, which support the canopy; above them the Prophets, masterpieces of art and workmanship. At the base of the eight pillars: Nimrod, Samson, Perseus, Hercules; and the virtues: Strength, Temperance, Charity, and Justice: “In the church of sainted Sebald, sleeps enshrined his holy dust, And in bronze the Twelve Apostles guard from age to age their trust.”
Behind the high altar are three figures in basrelief representing Judas' Kiss, the Mount of Olives, and the Lord's Supper. The stained windows are splendid. In this church there is a taper, in a small suspended vessel of oil, which has been kept burning for two or three hundred years, and the order is that it shall never be extinguished. A person, in recognition of some merciful deliverance, left by will a sum of money, the interest of which goes to defray the expense of this perpetual offering.
We visited a fine Gallery of paintings, among which are many by Albert Dürer-one the portrait of an old Burgomaster, is considered remarkable. * King Midas as Judge, the Passions assailing him;" "The Triumphal Entry of Maximillian;" and the “Band of the Town Musicians," all by Dürer, are also regarded as masterpieces. In allusion to him, Longfellow observes: • Fairer seems the ancient city, and the sunshine seems more fair, That he once has trod its pavement, that he once has breathed its air!”
The Castle here, founded by Emperor Conrad II. in the tenth century, is another point of some attrac
tion, as having been the favorite residence of nearly all of the old German Emperors. It contains some fine pictures, by Dürer and other artists. In different squares there are four beautiful fountains, and several monumental statues, including one of Melancthon. In fact, we could not go the length of a square anywhere in the city that we did not find more or less to excite our curiosity. It is altogether one of the most quaint and interesting old places we have visited. “Quaint old town of toil and traffic, quaint old town of art and song, Memories haunt thy pointed gables like the rooks that round them throng."
, en on the morning of the 30th ultimo, and going to Ratisbon,-or Regensberg, as it is called on some of the maps, we hired a coachman to drive us six miles to the Walhalla, or Temple of Fame, a magnificent white marble edifice, erected by the late King of Bavaria, in the northern end of which, opposite the main entrance, is a niche destined to receive his statue. It is situated on a hill several hundred feet in height, overlooking the Danube and surrounding country for a long distance. Its length is two hundred and eighteen feet, its breadth two hundred and two feet, and it is surrounded by fiftytwo fluted Doric columns, like the Parthenon at Athens and the Church of the Madeleine in Paris. The main saloon is one hundred and sixty feet long, forty-eight wide, and sixty feet high. It is intended as a great memorial hall, and to contain, among other works of art, the busts and statues of the most distinguished men of Bavaria. Being comparatively new, the number is not yet large; but among about one hundred busts are those of Albert Dürer, Martin Luther, Schiller, Goethe, Mozart, Wallenstein, and Charlemagne; and there are also six angelic white marble statues of “Victory,” by Rauch. We say angelic, because they are full-length figures, life-size, of beautiful females, with wings. They are differently posed, but all except one hold one or two wreaths, and this one holds a laurel branch in her right hand. They are all exquisitely beautiful, and we readily recall them to sight as well as mind by photographs of them in our collection. There is, we think, a carriage road to or quite near to the Temple on one side; but, as being the shorter way, we were left to walk a quarter of a mile to it in a foot-path up the steep hill, covered to the top by a fine forest. Were this magnificent Temple not so far out of the course of ordinary travel, it would undoubtedly be universally visited and admired. Returning by coach to the village or city of Ratisbon, we again took the train and reached Eger at eight P. M., where we stayed over night.
It was a long ride from Eger to Leipsic, our next stopping place (it took from half past eight in the morning till half past four in the afternoon) but we were fortunate in having for a traveling companion Mr. E. J. Sobeck, of Luditz, Bohemia, who, although unable to speak his own Bohemian tongue, could speak German, English, French, Spanish, and Italian. At present his principal business is that of an extensive hop merchant, shipping enormous quantities of that article to all quarters of the world.
He is also an architect and a professional musician, but has not practised the latter profession for many years.
He told us that in 1836 he traveled through most of the United States as a member of a Bohemian band, playing on the clarionet. He said they performed in Washington, and spoke of the pleasure he enjoyed in a call on President Jackson, whom they saluted with a serenade. From Baltimore to Pittsburg they rode in a mail stage. Subsequently he was the leader of a band in the service of the Queen of Spain; and when Jenny Lind was in her glory he traveled and performed for a time with her. He is a man of commanding appearance, fine address, and evidently well educated; in fact, our true ideal for a Senator. Everything on the route was interesting to us. The buildings are odd looking, the costumes of the peasantry queer, especially of the women, who work with the men in the fields; and the manner in which oxen are harnessed, with a yoke passing directly below their horns, thus drawing from the head instead of the breast, added to the novelty. Cows are also made to work in the same manner. The crops seem abundant. At the stations, where very short stops were made, beer was brought for sale at the car windows. It is offered in thin pint glasses the shape of wine casks, and sold very cheap, glass and all-the glass to be thrown away after its contents are drunk. We have, however, preserved one of them, and may find it useful.
Our approach to Leipsic carried us directly through the field where the principal part of the great battle of Leipsic was fought, on the 16th, 17th, and 18th of October, 1813, between the army of Napoleon on the one side, and the allied armies of Prussia, Russia,
and Austria on the other, resulting in the defeat of Napoleon, who occupied the city at the commencement of the battle. His force was said to have numbered one hundred and seventy thousand men against three hundred thousand of the allied army, whose loss was only fifty thousand, while his was eighty thousand. Sir Walter Scott, in his “Life of Napoleon,” gives a description of the town and a vivid account of the battle. He says: “The venerable town of Leipsic forms an irregular square, surrounded by an ancient Gothic wall, with a terrace planted with trees. Four gates - on the north those of Halle and Ranstadt, on the east the gate of Grimma, and on the south that called St. Peter's gatelead from the town to the suburbs, which are of great extent, secured by walls and barriers. Upon the west side of the town, two rivers, the Pleisse and the Elster, wash its walls, and flowing through meadows divide themselves into several branches connected by marshy islands.” On this side, thus protected, Napoleon was enabled, or permitted, lest his troops if headed off at every point might become desperate, to keep open a line of retreat toward the Rhine. It is supposed that he did not expect any serious attack on the northern side; therefore his preparations were chiefly made on the southern side of the city; but on the second day the Prussian General, Blucher, made a violent attack, and obtained great advantages on the north side. The next day was occupied, without any serious conflict, by both armies in preparation for the final struggle of the 18th, which resulted in Napoleon's defeat and most disastrous retreat. In retreating, nearly his whole army was obliged to pass through the city; and, although commenced on the night of the 18th,