NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

THROUGH

SYRIA AND PALESTINE

IN 1851 AND 1852

BY

C. W. M. VAN DE VELDE

LATE LIEUTENANT DUTCH R.N., CHEVALIER OF THE

LEGION OF HONOUR.

TRANSLATED UNDER THE AUTHOR'S SUPERINTENDENCE.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

We look not at the things which are seen, but at the things which are not seen: for the things
which are seen are temporal but the things which are not seen are eternal."-2 COR, iv. 18.

WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS
EDINBURGH AND LONDON.

M.DCCC.LIV.

EDINBURGH PRINTED BY JOHN HUGHES, 3 THISTLE STREET.

CONTENTS OF VOLUME II.

TOUR TO THE DEAD SEA, AND THROUGH THE
SOUTHERN PARTS OF JUDEA.

Unexpected help.-The way to Bethlehem.-Convent of Elijah.-Beit-
Jala.-Bethlehem.-Traditions concerning the Grotto of the Nativity.
-David's Well.-Wadi-Urtas.-The Farm of Meshullam in Solomon's
Gardens.-Efforts to engage Shech Hamdan as a Guide to the Dead
Sea fail.-Reasons why.-Mr Meshullam.-American Emigrants at
his Farm.-Charming morning in Wadi-Urtas.-Excursion to Tekoa,
etc.-Ruins of Tekoa.-Chareitûn, the Cave of David.-Castle of
Herodium, the Frank's Mountain.-The Field of the Shepherds.—
Bedouins.-Solomon's Pools.-Road to Hebron.-Rama of Samuel.-
The Oaks of Mamre.-Hebron.-Detained by Storms at Besharah's.—
Contract with Shech Hamzeh for a Tour to the Dead Sea, etc.-Ex-
tortions and Tricks of the Bedouïns.-The Cave of Machpelah.-Valley
of Eshcol.-Ruins round Hebron.-Off for the Camp of Shech Abû
Dahûk.-Ancient Sites.-Ziph, Carmel, Maon, etc.-Tell-'Arad, Wadi-
er-Rmail.-Reception at Abû Dahûk's.-How matters stand with regard
to Bedouïn Guides who are pressed upon Travellers.-Masada.-Dan-
gerous climbing of its Rock.-Ruins.-The Mountains between Masada
and Zuweirah.-Volcanic Formation.-Crater and Ruins of Zuweirah.
-The Plains between Wadi-es-Zuweirah and the Salt Mountain.-
The so-called Ruins of Zoar and Sodom of M. de Saulcy do not exist.
-Remarks upon the pseudo discoveries of that Traveller.-The Salt
Mountain. Remarks upon the Catastrophe of Gen. xix., and the for-
mation of the present Dead Sea.-Ascent of the Mountains to the S.W.
of the Dead Sea. Fearful Precipices, and dangerous Mountain Paths.
-Thirst and Exhaustion.-Encamp in the Desert without Water.-
The Ruins of Kûrnûb.—Bedouins.-The Desert a splendid field of
grass and flowers.-Wells of 'Arârah.-Bersheba.-Pursued by Be-

douïns of a Hostile Tribe.-Ruins in this Region.-Ramath.-Lehi.—

Hora.-Khewèlfeh.-Another Night without Water.-'Ain-Kesaba.-

Bir-Esek.-Safe arrival at Beit-Jebrîn,

1-148

THE PLAIN OF THE PHILISTINES.

Beit-Jebrîn (Eleuthropolis).-Antiquities.-Discoveries of Dr Smith and

Dr Robinson.-Journey to 'Akir (Ekron).-Hadj-Tahir.-Kudna.—

Deir-Dubbâ'n: Great Cavern with Inscriptions (Adullam).—Tell-es-

Safieh.-View of the Sephala.-Villages between Tell-es-Safieh and

'Akir.-Moslem hospitality and other virtues.-The Principles of the

Doctrine of Mohammed compared with those of the Doctrine of Jesus

Christ. Thoughts upon the neglect of Preaching the Gospel among

the Turks.-Ekron: Ancient Wells; Clay Houses.-The Idols of the

Philistines a snare unto Israïl and a destruction to themselves.—Ful-

filled Prophecies.-Road to Esdûd (Ashdod).—Picturesque situation

of this village.-Extraordinary heat; a Sirocco; Illness in consequence

of the fatigue of my journey.-Present state of the Philistian Plain.—

Difference between the Judgments upon Israïl and those upon the

Philistines. Villages of Hamameh, Medjdel (Migdal-Gad), and Ascalon

(Askelân).-Ruins.-Travel on as far as Gaza.-The Governor of

Gaza.-Remains of Gerar.-El-Montar (Samson's Hill).-Recollections

of Samson.-Gaza's Harbour.—Importance of Gaza.—Return to Jeru-

salem.—Lachis, Eglon, and other Ancient Sites.-Forced by illness to

take refuge in a Bedouïn Camp.-Hospitality and kindness of these

Bedouïns.-Back at Beit-Jebrîn.-Lose our way.-Tell-and Kefr-

Zakarîya.—Lose our way again.--Back at Jerusalem,

149-193

ONCE MORE AT JERUSALEM.

The last acts of the Pilgrims.-Change of travelling attendants.--The
Tyropœon.-The Mount of Olives.-Panorama of the City. -This spot
chosen by the Lord to foretell to his Disciples the fate of Jerusalem.—
Gethsemane. Meet a Jewish Rabbi.-A type of the hostile spirit of
Judaïsm against Christianity.-The London Society for Promoting
Christianity among the Jews.-Reasons for taking an interest in the
Gospel labours in Jerusalem, etc.-Disappointment and little fruit.—
Testimony of Bishop Gobat.-The simple preaching of Sin and Mercy,
and not controversial efforts, the most efficacious means for obtaining
better results. Specimen of Mr Crawford's manner of addressing the
Jews. Dr Macgowan and the Hospital.-Miserable condition of the