KNOWING how little reliance can be placed at any time upon the information published in American newspapers, I was very anxious, if possible, to get to the South and judge for myself as to the condition of its people, the strength of its government, and the organisation of its armies. I had often, during the last year, tried to conjecture what Richmond was like, and felt quite curious to know how the public and private business of the Government was carried on. I confess I entertained a wholesome dread of being taken prisoner by the Yankees in my endeavour to get through their lines, having personally learnt from others who had had the misfortune to come under the displeasure of local military autocrats, how disagreeable they were in the habit of making a prison residence-in many instances, indeed, evincing a barbarity of conduct disgraceful to any nation claiming English descent. But the desire of knowledge, or the promptings of curiosity, as the case may be, determined me upon running all risks, and making my way into the forbidden land of Dixey,

VOL. XCIII.-NO. DLXVII.

despite all the blockading, gunboats, and Federal patrols along the Potomac river. There was, however, one great drawback to my happiness in starting upon this expeditionnamely, the necessity which existed for my being back in New York by the 20th of October, and it was already the 11th of September when I left that city. As every one is aware who has travelled in America, letters of introduction are almost indispensable to the comfort of a traveller; certainly so to one whose time being limited makes him necessarily anxious to compress much sight-seeing and amusement into the briefest period possible. Before starting, therefore, I had furnished myself with a number of these "open Sesame" billets, many of which were from persons with whom I was but very slightly acquainted, and in some instances addressed to parties but little known to the writers of the epistles in question. This, however, is a matter of little importance in the States. In England, except in particular cases, a very general prejudice against giving letters of this description exists. But brother Jona

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than, more pachydermatous and less particular, seems wholly to disregard such little punctilios. And although you may have but just made his acquaintance, if he stops to speak to any gentleman for a few moments when walking with you, he considers it necessary to introduce you to him. In this way it is easy to provide one's self with letters of introduction, the acquaintance of to-day in one town being quite ready and willing to introduce you to the notice of whatever friends he may chance to possess in the next to which you are going and so on from place to place. It is scarcely necessary to mention that messengers go backwards and forwards from Richmond to the Northern States almost daily. Now and then some unlucky fellows have been caught, but before their capture they have generally succeeded in destroying the papers and letters of which they were bearers. The frontier to be guarded is so very extensive, that even the vast mob of the half million of men supposed to be in the Federal ranks, if employed only along it, would still be insufficient for the purpose of thoroughly blockading it against the passage of individuals. The inhabitants in and about the neighbourhood of the outposts must be allowed a little liberty of locomotion-their farm duties demand it; and, as a natural consequence when the two contending parties speak the same language, are the same people, and in many districts divided as to their predilections for and against Secession, to prevent the Confederates from receiving information of what goes on at Washington, or effectually to hinder individuals from joining the Southern bands, would be a physical impossibility. The case is different, however, when Englishmen wish to pass over. Our dress, appearance, and, as Americans say, our patois English, declare our nationality everywhere in the States. We are all considered as rebel sympathisers; and that we should de

sire to visit the Southern Republic merely for pleasure and with disinterested views is deemed almost incredible. We must be employed in either smuggling over arms, quinine, tea, or sugar, or engaged in some political conspiracy in aid of "the d- -d rebels." Our presence in the border States, when unaccompanied by some Federal official, is consequently viewed with suspicion; particularly if we should leave the large towns and take to roving through the country villages near the actual frontier. Few of us will consent, for the mere sake of pleasure, to face the discomfort of travelling about without a change of clothes, a sponge, towel, toothbrush, and other items, which require a small portmanteau for their conveyance; but an American, on the contrary, will travel for weeks with only a few paper collars and a pocket-comb! This dreadful portmanteau of ours, then, is our greatest impediment in getting through the lines. It attracts such attention that, however faithfully an Englishman may copy an American in his black tousers, frock-coat, black satin waistcoat, and unbecoming beard, this fatal encumbrance at once proclaims him to be British, and is also regarded as an offensive claim to exclusiveness, and an affectation of superiority, always hurtful to the feelings of your free-born American. To convey a portmanteau through the debatable ground, so cleared of four-footed animals and carts by the Northern armies, is as great a matter of difficulty as the transport of large stores with a field force is always to a general. If a man from Maryland or Kentucky wishes to join one of Jackson's regiments, he can always do so easily, as he will find hundreds of men all along the frontier glad to aid him in doing so; but when the same individuals are appealed to by foreigners, they feel naturally disinclined to compromise their personal liberty and private property by aiding people who may be spies