et we have a shortage. But that shortage of coal is readily found in the fact that whether for reasons best known to the employers and employees in the coal mines a ong stretch of idleness was kept up. I am not prepared to say as to that.

Mr. TAYLOR. The fact that there is a shortage of coal does not necessarily indicate hat there is a shortage of coal miners.

Mr. TWYEFFORT. I can not say. That is out of my line of business.

The CHAIRMAN. That is just what happens in your testimony which will probably e printed. Your statement appears that there is a shortage of coal miners and all New York has that impression. The committee here heard a delegation of coal iners and operators who started out as if the committee were going to believe that, nd in five minutes it developed that if there was a shortage of anything it was of oal cars.

Do you send any of your work out to be done by pants makers and coat makers or est makers?

Mr. TWYEFFORT. No, sir; our work is given out only to individuals.

The CHAIRMAN. Your shop is a better shop than that?

Mr. TWYEFFORT. We hope so.

The CHAINMAN. Do you know of any shops that set themselves up as custom tailors n New York who do?

Mr. TWYEFFORT. None in our membership.

Mr. Box. Did you read the President's statement that one of the troubles that proluced the coal strike was over supply of labor in the coal fields, an excessive supply? Mr. TWYEFFORT. I can not say.

Mr. Box. What particular phases of the immigration law would you have amended? I want to get details. First, is it your idea that the quota law, the 3 per cent law, might keep out some of the people you want? Do you think that is it?

Mr. TWYEFFORT. It may, but I would answer it in this way, that there has been such an exodus of men who have accumulated large means in labor circles to cut down in a large proportion the admissions which are coming to the country.

Mr. Box. What do you think the exodus of tailors amounted to in one year's time up to the first of July last?

Mr. TwYEFFORT. Quite a proportion, taken from my standpoint. There were three Italians who changed their dollars into lires and went abroad, and one of them has to come to our office to get his labor sheet to show how much he had to pay to the Government before he could get his papers.

The CHAIRMAN. Would it surprise you that the statistics show the number of tailors returned in the first year of the quota to be less than 1,000?

Mr. TWYEFFORT. I would not be surprised.

The CHAIRMAN. Is that number returning, 1,000 tailors, sufficient to upset the custom tailor business?

Mr. TWYEFFORT. No, sir; that would not do it alone, but the fact that business has not been fed by its usual quota of workmen who are the men we desire to employ, because of their efficiency, having served their apprenticeship. Those are the men we have to have in our line of business to make goods for the public.

Mr. Box. I wanted to get the suggestion of the gentleman as to the details of what specific features of the immigration laws he thinks should be changed. I presume he has that in mind.

Mr. TWYEFFORT. I have them in mind.

Mr. Box. Will you state them?

Mr. TWYEFFORT. I think that your committee is really better able to form whatever status should prevail as far as the law is concerned, than a tailor. I simply, from our standpoint, would say that if the matter could be made somewhat elastic in this way, that the Secretary of Labor could, from his own standpoint, receive power to regulate the admission of men whose services are required in different lines of manufacture, it would help conditions.

Mr. Box. Is that the extent of the change you suggest, that the Secretary of Labor be authorized to admit those various classes of laborers when needed? For instance, I ask you in detail, what about the literacy test? Do you think the literacy test ought to be repealed?

Mr. TWYEFFORT. The literacy test is a very complex question.

Mr. Box. I know that. I simply want your reaction, to know exactly what you have in mind. You make this one recommendation. What other recommendation have you, a capable business man, to make to this committee, as to changes that you have stated should be made in the law, in the light of your knowledge, that you think we should make?

Mr. TWYEFFORT. I would perhaps say it in this way: I would place the standard of citizenship first. Then all things being equal, I think a man can be a good citizen

in early youth though he may not have in his native country the advantages whi our citizens in this country have, of being taught at the expense of the Governmen That would explain the fact that he can not, perhaps, read or write, but he might the same time be a desirable citizen of the country. That is my view of it.

STATEMENT OF MR. CHARLES F. WETZEL, NEW YORK CITY.

The CHAIRMAN. Please state your name and business.

Mr. WETZEL. I am Charles F. Wetzel, 2 East Forty-fourth Street, New York Cit I am a merchant tailor. Here is a brief statement I will read of Wilbur W. Steway president of the National Association of Merchant Tailors of America:

"The National Association of Merchant Tailors of America, through its committ in presenting facts and figures regarding the tremendous shortage of labor in our dustry, does not do so with the idea of asking Congress to pass special legislation fav ing the merchant tailoring industry, but rather with the idea of tendering informati to you for your consideration that will lead to a greater understanding on your part the hardships the present immigration law is working on our own and, as we belie other branches of industry.

"The present law might have been fundamentally sound and for the best interof the country to meet post war conditions when it was enacted; but with the reviv of business and a return to more normal conditions it is now working an injury to t Nation.

"With this thought in mind we urge Congress to give immediate consideration a attention to some definite policy of immigration which will be more scientific in th handling of the alien and will carry with it a flexible provision similar to that whic the present tariff law embodies.

"Any law regulating immigration that might be passed to-day with a specific que to meet our country's requirements may be impracticable a year from now. therefore, feel that the Congress should fix by law such fundamental principles govern ing the administration of an immigration law as would deny admission to those wh might become a public charge because of chronic disease, the criminal, those wh oppose any and all forms of government, or those undesirable for citizenship in an way. We believe this should be determined abroad, where possible, by our consul before the passports of the emigrants are viséed.

"For the purpose of determining the quotas and the proper distribution of the emi grants to best serve the requirements of the Nation, we believe an immigration comp mission should be created whose duty it would be to hear evidence of shortage in any particular industry or industries, and upon being convinced that such shortage exists shall have power to instruct our properly consittuted authorities abroad of the specific needs and the classes of emigrants which should be given preference, together with the quota necessary to fill these requirements.

"The Government, through this commission, should have the power to supervise the distribution of the emigrant upon his arrival in this country, so that he could be immediately incorporated into the country's activities, and to accomplish that purpose could call upon State aid and responsible trade associations of the country for cooperation."

The CHAIRMAN. Let me interrupt to ask you about this distribution. a distribution of immigrants.

Mr. WETZEL. Yes, sir.

The CHAIRMAN. Have you any plans for keeping them distributed?

Mr. WETZEL. I have no plan.

You propos

The CHAIRMAN. If a duly accredited officer of the Government placed an immigran in Chicago and he did not want to stay there, what would you do?

Mr. WETZEL. I do not get the question.

The CHAIRMAN. If a properly accredited officer of the Government, in accordanc with your plan, places an immigrant in Chicago and that immigrant did not care to stay in Chicago, what would be your next step?

Mr. WETZEL. I think distribution means in regard to general trade, bringing them to New York in a particular trade that it is necessary to have there.

The CHAIRMAN. Are you differentiating between skilled and unskilled labor?

Mr. WETZEL. Skilled labor.

Mr. CHAIRMAN. You are dealing entirely with skilled labor?

Mr. WETZEL. Yes, sir.

The CHAIRMAN. All right; proceed.

Mr. WETZEL. I have here the results of a questionnaire submitted to the Burroughs Adding Machine Co. for compilation by the National Association of Merchant Tailors of America, certified to by a notary.

(The statement referred to is as follows:)

THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF MERCHANT TAILORS OF AMERICA.

1. Are you suffering from a labor shortage? Yes; 976; no, 169. 2. How many tailors do you employ?

3. How many more tailors could you use in the proper conduct of your business?

4. Of the total tailors employed, how many work for you exclusively? ary to answer accurately; some tailors work for more than one firm.

Coatmakers.
Vestmakers.

Trousermakers.

Bushelmen..

Total.

It is neces

5. Of the total employed, how many have been trained in America? Two thousand one hundred and thirty-one.

6. Of the total foreigners, how many landed since June, 1921? One hundred and seventy-six.

7. Is your business restricted by a shortage of tailors? Yes, 915; no, 79.

8. Has it been necessary to refuse orders because of shortage? Yes, 778; no, 129. 9. How many days do you require to complete an order? Thirteen average days. 10. Do you feel a greater shortage to-day than a year ago? Yes, 573; no, 137; 10 years ago? Yes, 722; no, 67.

11. To what do you attribute your labor shortage? Average restricted immigration and no apprentices among American boys.

12. Have you any suggestions to improve it? Lift restriction on immigration and have trade schools.

DECEMBER 29, 1922.

STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA,

County of Philadelphia, ss:

I certify that the above figures are correct and just, to the best of my knowledg and belief.

The foregoing summary was drawn from a lot of questionnaires submitted to the Burroughs Adding Machine Co. for compilation by the National Association of Mer chant Tailors of America.

[SEAL.]

S. M. TILLOTTSON,

Manager Burroughs School for Service.
TILLIE SAFT, Notary Public.

My commission expires at end of next session of Senate.

JANUARY 2, 1922.

Mr. J. N. TOMPERS,

Philadelphia, Pa.

DEAR MR. TOMPERS: Inclosed herewith find corrected summary of the figure covering your questionnaire, certified and attested. The correction was necessar because of the transposition of two figures on the summary dated December 13, 192 Yours very sincerely,

S. M. TILLOTSON, Burroughs School for Service.

Mr. Box. By whom were the yeas and nays submitted? Mr. WETZEL. By all the merchant tailors throughout the country. Continuing with the statement that I was reading:

"Such commission, cloaked with flexible power, would be able to meet a period of industrial depression in business by a reduction of the quotas, or on the contrary could increase the quotas to meet the requirements of a large expansion in business "The close and earnest cooperation by responsible trade associations, in conjunction with expressed requirements of the commission, would serve to give the emigrant the knowledge of the needs of the various industries into which he could best be incor porated, and because of which knowledge he could select that branch of industry into which he would fit. The emigrant is entitled to this, for in this way he can be of most use to himself, and in consequence most valuable to his newly adopted country.

"The suggested arrangement would place the Government in a position where they could watch the growth and development of the emigrant and keep track of the coming citizen.

"That there may be no misunderstanding on the part of Congress of the figures here with submitted, and by way of explanation for the purpose of assistance and informa tion only, I desire to say that the total 'Yes's' and 'No's' in answer to question lis 1,145; that there was no intention to secure the figures (7,489) covering question 2. These were in the questionnaires reported (in error) and so were summarized by the compilers.

"The actual totals of the figures covering question No. 2, including piece workers | and week workers employed by the firms from whom we received questionnaires, are 16,391.

66

'Covering question No. 4, the grand total employed exclusively by one firm 5,015. This amount should be deducted from the figures covering answer to No. (16,391), which leaves a remainder of 11,376 who are employed by two or more firms. "Assuming that of this number (11,376) that they are employed by two firms only to ascertain how many are actually employed by one firm, you would have to divid this number (11,376) by 2, which yields 5,688 as the number of men actually en ployed.

"To obtain the total working force giving production to the 1,145 reporting firms who have answered the questionnaire, we must add together the sum employed ex clusively by one firm and the sum obtained by dividing the number in half of men employed by two firms, which gives us a total of 10,703.

'Question No. 3: The answer to this, 4,323, would indicate that the reporting firms required this number more tailors than they now have in their employ for the proper conduct of their business. Assuming that these figures are correct, and that the reporting firms now use 10,703 tailors, it would indicate that there is an approximate shortage of labor of 44 per cent endured by these firms.

"It is estimated upon unquestionable authority that there are approximately 10,000 qualified merchant tailors in the country; by this we mean those who carry a stock, have capital invested in it, and who employ labor.

1

This is exclusive of dyeing, cleaning, and pressing establishments who may ocasionally make a suit from samples.

Assuming that our questionnaire covers the figures from 1,145 merchant tailors, e deduce that we have the figures of 11.4 per cent of the total qualified merchant ilors of the country, and to obtain the exact shortage of labor on the basis of calculaon, we must multiply these figures by approximately 8.73, which would give us an ndicated shortage of approximately 37,740 in the merchant tailoring business. “Quoting the figures of United States Department of Labor, Bureau of Immigration, migrants aliens admitted and emigrants aliens deported during the fiscal year ending anuary 30, 1922, we have an entry of 4,331 with a departure of 981, which leaves us as he net result of one year's immigration under the 3 per cent quota law, 3,350. Of this umber our questionnaire has only been able to trace 176.

"In conclusion, we desire to urge Congress the need of such quick action as will give o industry an adequate amount of emigrant labor, without creating social problems, hat will prove injurious to our national welfare. Unless this be done it is inevitable nat preliminary work in forest, factory, farm, and general construction will become o restricted as to reflect very materially in the cost of all products, which, in conseuence, will increase so much as to imperil the healthy and constant growth of inustry and commerce."

Respectfully submitted, The National Association of Merchant Tailors of America. WILBUR W. STEWART,

President.

The CHAIRMAN. Let me interrupt. Do you think that those who came in as tailors and did not show up as custom tailors were not tailors after all?

Mr. WETZEL. I think a lot of these men that claim to be tailors were not experienced skilled tailors, but were adapted to the clothing industry.

The CHAIRMAN. Is there not a competition between the clothing industry and the ailoring industry?

Mr. WETZEL. I do not think there is competition.

The CHAIRMAN. It does not make any difference what you think. That is very striking.

Mr. WETZEL. I do not think they are in competition at all with our line.

The CHAIRMAN. Well, it does not make any difference what you think; but is there not competition between them and you?

Mr. WETZEL. No; they are not competitive with our line at all.

The CHAIRMAN. But they are getting the employees, the alien employees, and you are not getting them; is that not correct?

Mr. WETZEL. Yes; they are getting the alien employees the unskilled labor.

The CHAIRMAN. And the other line of tailoring industries, or clothing industries, as you prefer to call them, are getting the help and you are not getting it?

Mr. WETZEL. They are getting the help, because it is not skilled labor in those lines. The CHAIRMAN. Well, have you any assurance that any scheme can be devised by which the Secretary of Labor could pick out the skilled tailors for you? [Laughter.] Mr. WETZEL. Well, that is up to the Secretary of Labor, in conjunction with this committee, to get busy with that.

The CHAIRMAN. Yes; and are you not proposing to place a rather difficult task upon the Secretary of Labor; when this is done for the tailoring industry must it not be done for every other class of industry that has skilled labor? And that being true, is it really a feasible plan?

Mr. WETZEL. It is really a feasible plan to get skilled tailors; yes.

The CHAIRMAN. Skilled labor of all kinds?

Mr. WETZEL. I am talking about tailors.

The CHAIRMAN. To get all kinds of skilled labor through the Secretary of Labor or a commission?

Mr. WETZEL. I would like to talk just about tailors.

The CHAIRMAN. But we must consider the whole thing in connection with this proposition.

Mr. WETZEL. I am sorry for that, because we are only representing the merchant tailors. [Reading:]

"Unless this be done, it is inevitable that preliminary work in forest, factory, farm, and general construction will become so restricted as to reflect very materially in the cost of all products, which, in consequence, will increase so much as to imperil the healthy and constant growth of industry and commerce.

The CHAIRMAN. Now, that would indicate that that, in your mind, is the whole problem?

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