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street that leads through the Tartar district of the time. Indeed, I fear there is something wrong in the city, having other streets equally wide crossing it at house, for it seems so deserted. Wait here until I right angles. The houses were all one-storied, and return," and with that she entered one of the apartnot in good order. There were shops of all sorts, ments. with open fronts, or windows of close lattice, covered I sat down on a porcelain seat in the garden, with thin white paper in the inside; from butchers, before a table of the same ware, and did not wait who dealt in raw meat, as at home, in car- long before Loo A-Lee returned with an old duenna, cases, chiefly mutton and pork, to “chow-chow" stating that her father and friends were in great shops, where meat pies were made and dressed. tribulation as to her safety, and had that day gone Then came hat shops, grocers' shops, ready-made out to search for her, but had not yet come back. clothes shops, druggists, and the hundred-and-one After obtaining some refreshments I bade her adieu, trades that go to supply the necessities of a large and hastened back to the camp, passing the city city. Numerous customers were buying, and the gates just before they were closed. hum and bustle reminded me of the busy streets in the east end of London.

The whole of the central causeway was occupied by a dense moving mass, composed of operatives in

HOW GIPSIES ARE SOMETIMES TRUE every department of active life. Tinkers, cobblers,

FORTUNE-TELLERS. blacksmiths, barbers, were there with their loco; THAT gipsies and other fortune tellers do somemotive shops; and booths and tents were erected

is on the kerb of the footway for the sale of tea, lieved, but there is always a good explanation, if it fruit, rice, and vegetables, so that little space can be discovered. This was illustrated in the case of remained for foot-passengers. There were public an Austrian officer, Baron von Weber, in a war with officers with their retinues bearing canopies, lan- the Turks early in the eighteenth century. terns, flags, and numerous insignia of rank and Near the camp was a gipsy sutler's tent, to which station; coffins attended by mourners clad in white; many of the soldiers resorted to have their fortunes and brides conveyed in glittering palanquins, the told. The baron heard of it, and while ridiculing cries of sorrow from one procession being occasion- the superstition, went one day to the fortune-teller, ally drowned by the shouts of exultation and peals | “just for the fun of the thing," as the saying is. of music that ascended from the other. Mixed with No word could be got from the gipsy but “the these were troops of dromedaries laden with coals, twentieth of August,' repeated over and over in wheelbarrows, and hand-carts, and an immense a peculiar and impressive tone. About a week concourse, literally struggling for liberty to go in before the twentieth the gipsy came to the baron's pursuit of their way or their wants.

tent, and begged he would leave her a legacy After passing through this great thoroughfare in case he should die on the twentieth of August, the chair-bearers turned into a comparatively quiet offering on her part the gift of a hamper of good street, where there were scarcely any shops or tokay wine to drink her health, if he should live to stalls. This was the street leading to the govern- claim it. As there were other officers present, ment offices, and the houses are chiefly the resi- although the baron thought the woman either a rogue dences of officials. Very little of these dwellings or a fool, he pledged a good round sum of money was visible from the road, as they were mostly sur against the woman's tokay, and the paymaster of the rounded by high brick walls. It was only when regiment was called to sign, seal, and deliver the abreast of the entrance gates that a glimpse of the contract, amidst the laughter of those who witnessed buildings within could be obtained.

the affair. At length we stopped at one of these gates of The twentieth of August arrived. The baron's ornamental trellis-work, and the front chair-bearer regiment had to furnish a piquet for the night. Of knocked for admittance. A doorkeeper seated inside, the two officers senior to the baron, one was taken smoking his long-stemmed brass pipe, undid the suddenly ill, and the other was seriously injured by bars, and the sedan-chair was carried into the being thrown from his horse, which became violently vestibule. As I was about to follow, the porter was restive just as he was mounting. The duty consegoing to close the gates in my face, but a sweet voice quently devolved upon the baron, who, with his men, from the chair ordered him to forbear. He recog- proceeded to his post. nised his young mistress's voice, and with a smile In the course of the night a sudden attack was made and a bow allowed me to enter.

by a large body of Turkish cavalry, and the Austrians, From the vestibule we went through an intricate being surprised, lost many men.

The baron, dark passage, which led to an open court, or rather severely wounded, was left among those supposed to garden, with ornamental rockwork, water, and be dead. In the morning, however, he contrived to flowers. Around were the apartments appropriated reach the advanced posts, and was thence conveyed exclusively to the accommodation of the family to the camp, where he recovered, after some weeks' Here the sedan-chair was set down, and Loo A-Lee suffering, and rejoined his regiment. stepped out, ordering the chair-bearers to proceed to Soon after, the gipsy reappeared, bringing the the kitchen for some refreshment.

hamper of tokay, congratulating the baron on his “Welcome, noble stranger,” she then said, “ to narrow escape, and saying at the same time that my father's house!

When he knows how bravely many of her predictions had been verified, and that you have rescued me from the doomed palace of she had obtained many legacies. Yuen-ming-yuen, he will be more profound in thanks The mystery was before long simply but thoroughly than I, but he cannot feel so grateful as I do for cleared up. Two Servian Christians, having deserted your protection and kindness. And now I must go from the Ottoman camp, on seeing the pretended and see if my father is at home. I am afraid he is fortune-teller, recognised her as having often visited not, for he should have made his appearance by this ! the Turkish army by night to report the movements


of the Germans, and that a Turkish cypher was her | amount of £28,000, thus freeing many of them from passport. Being seized and examined, the cypher the incubus of debt and the disheartening dread of

. was found upon her, and she was consequently con- being forced by want of means to discontinue their demned to death as a spy.

good work. This large amount has been distributed Before her death she confessed that, by her double in various sums from £10 to £460 ; and before the office as spy, she had learnt much in both camps, grants were voted some 500 careful visits of inspecand especially from those who came to consult her as tion have been made by members of the council. a fortune-teller. As to what concerned the baron, From time to time, though at periods not too often she said she fixed on the date of his death as likely recurring, conferences of managers of institutions to be a notable example, by which she might confirm have been held for the mutual interchange of exher authority with the common soldiers and others perience, and for the discussion of matters bearing inclined to superstition. At the approach of the


their work; and as the result of these meetings twentieth of August she visited the Turkish camp much knowledge of a practical kind has been oband gave information of the strength of the piquet, tained, which has been utilised in various ways. Of urging the enemy to make an attack in force on the several agencies the Union employs in London, that night. To the commanding officer she had some of the most effective were due to such intersold some wine containing a deleterious potion, change of experience. We shall briefly notice some which caused his illness. At the moment wien the of them, that the reader may see how the Union second officer was mounting, she came near under prosecutes its labours. First, there are its Christian pretext of selling something, and unperceived slipped female missionaries, who are to be found night by up the nostrils of the horse some irritating substance night in the streets of London, seeking to rescue the which occasioned his unusual violence. In this way fallen of their own sex. During the past year they the baron was on duty the very night of the predic- have succeeded in saving 824, about half of whom tion, which only by merciful providence failed to be they have provided with situations, while they have verified. Had his wound proved fatal, the reputa- effectually relieved in various ways most of the tion of this woman as a prophetess would have been remainder. They labour in assigned districts, and wonderfully enhanced. But the discovery of the make the character of their mission as widely known imposture cured many of her dupes of their foolish as possible, in order that any young women desirous superstition.

of forsaking their sinful course of life may know The present narrative of this affair may not be where those ready and waiting to welcome and assist useless. In our own “enlightened days" there are them are to be found. In the next place, there are numbers of people who still have a lingering faith in the Union's workhouse missionaries, who visit the fortune-telling. This credulity is not confined to the workhouses with the view of saving young girls from poor and illiterate, who listen to vulgar tramps and the contamination and debasement of the Magdalen gipsies. Crowds of “fashionable people,” in what wards. Connected with this mission is a home which is called “good society," encourage the imposture of receives friendless or fallen girls, either from the spiritualists and other rogues, who, by means of pre- workhouse or the streets. Hundreds have been vious inquiries, and cunning artifices, obtain informa- helped, many of whom have been trained to honest tion sufficient to give colour to some of their predic- service, whilst many others have been restored to tions, and thus sustain the credulity of other dupes their friends. Again, there is the Union's Suicide from whose fully they gain their disreputable living. Agent, appointed for the help of those who have

, attempted to commit suicide; this agent is in con

stant communication with the chaplain, and is often REFORMATORY AND REFUGE UNION.

the means of raising the unhappy subjects of his

care out of the slough of despond into which they THE "HE Reformatory and Refuge Union was have fallen by restoring them to their friends, or by

tablished in 1856, as a centre of information giving them an opportunity to retrieve their chaand encouragement for reformatories, refuges, indus- racters. Both these last-named works are carried on trial schools, and other similar institutions, for the under the superintendence of the Female Mission purpose of obtaining and diffusing information as to Committee. the working of such institutions, of promoting con- Next comes the "Boys' Beadle," an exceedingly certed action between them, of facilitating the useful personage, whose duty it is to befriend and establishment of new institutions of the kind, and of aid the neglected children in the streets, and to furthering the temporal and spiritual welfare of their discover the persons who fail in their duty to take inmates. When the Union was first instituted care of them. He could only do this effectually by attention had not long been aroused to the necessity careful investigation of the cases that come within for the prevention of juvenile crime, and the training his notice, and adapting his services to their seveof the deserted and neglected children.

ral needs; some he has restored to their parents Even a year after the Union was formed there were or guardians; some he placed in "Homes only 34 certified reformatories, and some 160 volun- refuges; while he has remitted the vagrants to intary institutes connected with it, having accommoda- dustrial schools and reformatories. When the London tion for about 15,000 inmates; now there are 65 School Board resolved to appoint similar officers, it certified reformatories, and about 300 industrial was in contemplation to abolish the Union's beadle; schools, making a total of 365, with accommoda- but upon consideration it was resolved to continue tion for 31,500 inmates. Thus, mainly in con- his services; and at the present time he works in sequence of the exertions of the Union, these co-operation with the School Board officers, who have valuable institutes have nearly doubled in number, to resolve the difficult problem of dealing with and more than doubled in usefulness. Since its first deserted children. How great is the difficulty is establishment the Union has made grants of money shown by the Report of the Committee of the London to assist refugos and reformatories in need to the School Board's Industrial Schools, from which it




appears that of 1,307 children picked up in the point them to the Appendix as teeming with intereststreets, only 624 could be sent to certified schools. ing details supplied by managers, etc., of some forty The rest had to be dismissed, or sent to voluntary institutions in connection with the Union. institutions, and it was only through the exertions of The office of the Union is at 34, Parliament the Boys' Beadle, and his taking up such cases yhen Street, s.w. the Board could not deal with them, that, in many instances, they were permanently provided for, and not compelled to return to their former way of living. Another important agent is the Union's “Educa

Sonnets of the Sacred Year. tional Inspector,” a vell qualified gentleman who devotes a portion of his time to the examination of the schools of the refuges, homes, and similar institu

EIGHTH SUNDAY AFTER TRINITY. tions, and sees to the efficiency of the teaching imparted to the scholars.

"As many as are led by the Spirit of God, they are the song

of God.”-Rom. viii. 14. The last of the Union's agencies we need mention in this brief notice, are the Agents for the Relief of Discharged Prisoners . We believe that there is no WOULDST thou endure ? Seven nations of thy

foes agency of a reforming kind more valuable than this,

a aud none which yields better returns, whether we

Withstand thee: wouldst be valiant in the fight look at them from a moral or a social point of view, Which daily, hourly thickens ? turn to flight for the money and the labour invested in it. We Their alien armies ? through offending woes learn from the Report of the Metropolitan Relief Or fierce temptations pass to that repose Committee, that of 3,393 men who have been sent Which, in the Eternal City out of sight, to the committee from the Coldbath Fields during nine years, 233 have, so far as is known, returned to Beyond the border Mountains of Delight, crime; and of those who have been reconvicted, True to the end the happy warrior knows? many have by no means relapsed into habitual Then thou must follow and not lead : obey crime; while from others letters are continually re

And not dictate : the spiritual cloud, ceived expressing gratitude for the aid they received, and hope for the future. In asking for aid to this Unheeded by the captious and the proud, special mission the committee appeal, and rightly so, For movement or for rest must rule thy way. not only to the charity, but to the interest of every All-conquering Israel is the lowly child Englishman, observing, that unless discharged who owns that heavenly leading through the wild. criminals are enabled to support themselves by honest industry, they will assuredly make society support them either as thieves or prisoners. In connection with the prosecution of a work so important

THE LAND OF THE GIANT CITIES. as the reform of criminals, the committee make in their Report a suggestion of the utmost value, as well on account of the great advantage to the community to which it points, as of its evident practi: WE

E now proceed in a south-westerly direction, eability. What they would urge is the establishment with the raised edge of the great lava bed on our of a Central Aid Society which should act for all left, and an immense ocean-like plain on our right. similar societies throughout the kingdom. The It is impossible to get rid of the impression that we difficulty of finding employment for prisoners on are moving along the tide mark between a great their leaving the gaol is very great, but it would ocean and its rugged shore. The Lejah (Argob), be vastly diminished if the society possessed complete which is raised twenty or thirty feet above the plain, information as to the existing demands for labour. runs out into promontories, and is indented with A central agency in London in correspondence with bays and creeks, and all the head!ınds have their the provincial societies would acquire and would im- ruined towers, like lighthouses, and the bays have part information of this kind, and, after a little ex- their little black ruins, like fishing villages; and low perience, would be in a position to act as a kind of grey tents here and there in angles of bays and labour “clearing-house," with the happy result of creeks, propped up with sticks, remind us of nets obtaining a far wider field for the allocation of the and fishing-tackle drying; and out on the ocean to unfortunate subjects of their care.

the right, camels, steering in different directions, and Some of our readers will doubtless be desirous of greatly magnified by the miragy atmosphere, heave assisting in the prosecution of some of the good and toss about like boats; and the thick fat smoke works to which we have directed their attention. of an occasional Arab's fire hangs black in the air, They can do so with the certainty that whatever like the smoke of a steamboat starting on a voyage; they contribute will be applied for the purpose for and the small round stones on which our horses which it is given, seeing that the adininistrative stumble ever call to mind the pebbly beach.” The expenses of the Reformatory and Refuge Union are real objects around us have all the marks of sea and merely nominal. Contributions are solicited for the shore; but in addition, the mirage as usual is playing General Fund, for maintaining the general operations all kinds of fantastic tricks, throwing up beautiful of the Union ; for the Refuge Fund, for supplementing wooded beaches with castellated crests, and spreading the funds of refuges and homes in need of aid; and for out glassy seas which mirror all the surrounding the Female Mission Fund, for the maintenance of the objects. We coast along keeping clear of the headFemale Mission to the Fallen. For further informa- lands, crossing bay after bay in succession. In tion we refer readers to the Report of the Re- several of the bays are little Arab encampments of formatory and Refuge Union for 1874, and would five or six tents each. The men are away with their







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Hocks, and the women, who are hideously tattooed anxious to have them as I knew that Hasselquist and and frightfully dirty, are occupied in churning goats' others had declared these were the quails by which milk. The churn is a goat's skin which has been the children of Israel were miraculously fed in the drawn off the goat like a stocking. All the openings wilderness. I once saw them migrating, and they of the skin are tied except the neck, and when the seemed sufficiently numerous to feed all the hungry milk is put into the skin the neck opening is tied too. tribes of the desert. They swarm so thickly in the A woman then gets down on her knees beside the desert that the Arabs snare them, and knock them skin, and rolls it backwards and forwards with her down with sticks, and sell them for one halfpenny hands, which is the churning process. She uses her apiece. At Haushhoush, near Bosra, Burckhardt fingers as a strainer to separate the butter from the declares “ the quantity of kattas is beyond descripmilk, and she then places the butter separately in tion; the whole plain seemed sometimes to rise, and another skin. I have sometimes partaken of such far off in the air they were seen like moving clouds." butter, but it smells of camel and tastes of leather, Russell says “a donkey's load of them may someand no one can look at it without sympathising with times be taken at one shutting of the clasp-net.” the Yankee, who guessed it would be better to put They lay their eggs on the desert, and so thickly are the butter in one ball and the hairs in another, and they strewed over the ground that they are gathered then he could exercise his discretion.

every morning like manna. The Arabs go forth two The first time I passed this way we had a most ex- and two, carrying a skin between them with its citing chase. Our party consisted of several clergy- mouth open like a sack. Other Arabs, men, women, men and a celebrated painter and his wife. I ascended and children, scamper about picking up the eggs, a rising ground to get a view of the magnificent land- which are of a black-greenish colour and as large as scape, and just as I reached the top of the eminence pigeons' eggs, and throw them into the bags. The I came face to face with an armed Bedawy. He was eggs are of course all broken


but the compound a scout sent on in advance by a party of Arabs who is strained through a hair sieve into other skins, and wished to pass that way to see if the country was then served out like molasses for use. The finest free of Druzes. As soon as he saw me he galloped specimen I got was nine and a-half ounces weight, off in a most frightened manner, and I, not knowing and between the size of a partridge and a pigeon. what he might be, signalled our Druze escort, and we Its colours and tints were very beautiful. A broad all started in pursuit, our lady companion among the band of chestnut, edged with dark green, encircled foremost. As long as the Bedawy kept his distance the breast, and the upper surface of the body was he made straight for his companions, but when he streaked with alternate bars of yellow, and green, and found we were gaining upon him he doubled like a silver-grey, and on the centre of the feathers were sly old partridge which wishes to decoy the enemy yellow heart-shaped spots. When flying it shouts, from its young. The day was bright and bracing. “Katta, katta!" from which sound it takes its The ground inclined gently in the direction of the Hebrew and Arabic name, and it takes its English chase. The Arab, like "the manslayer" fleeing name, pin-tailed,” from the fact that the two before “the avenger of blood,” bent to his horse's central feathers of the tail are elongated about seren neck, parallel with his spear, and seemed to fly over inches, and stand out forked. We found its flesh the plain. The Druzes, like the avengers of blood, dark and tasteless, like that of an old pigeon, and thundered along on his track. Our lady friend and much inferior to partridge. There are many circumher companions galloped along promiscuously in the stances in favour of these being the quails of Scriprear, and thoroughly enjoyed the chase. Those who ture, but I am convinced that the kattas are the kath havo seen the excitement of huntsmen, after a miser- of Scripture, birds strictly unclean to the Israelites, able little hare or fox, can form some idea of our which frequent desert and solitary places. The feelings in this wild chase, where the quarry was a Hebrew name for quails is almost the same as the son of Ishmael on his own ground, and our fellowr- Arabic, and they migrate through Syria in enormous hunters were the chivalrous Druzes, his inveterate numbers every spring. enemy. The Bedawy fled for dear life, but after a After a ride of two hours a raised promontory brief course he was brought to the ground. He of stretches out before us, and on its isthmus rise mascourse expected instant death at the hands of the sive, black, jagged ruins. We work our way with Druzes, and he seemed when we came up as if the difficulty along what was once a Roman road and bitterness of death were already past, but his manner enter the city Phaena. The most conspicuous ruin is instantly changed when he found that our presence a temple in a good state of preservation, and the secured his safety. We kept him till near night, and most striking object in the temple is an enormous then sent him away happy with a good backshish. scallop-shell in the semicircular recess in the back

Near the same place we came upon game of side of the temple opposite the door. The columns another kind-a large bustard (Otis tarda) and a which support the half-fallen roof are curiously flock of katta (Petrocles), or pin-tailed sand-grouse. wreathed with oak chaplets near the top. There are This bustard was the first that my companion or I niches round the walls for statues, which would, no had ever seen at large, and so we stalked it carefully doubt, be found Dagon-like on their faces if the from different sides. We both got within long range débris were removed; and one still sees traces of of it, but did not fire-for the same reason that a yellow and purple fresco on the plastered walls. friend of mine did not shoot at partridges once when | The spirit that seeks immortality by scribbling on they were flying round his head - lest we should miss walls was abroad when this temple was erected. it. I have since seen the same magnificent birds in Hence, on the lintel of the door, and over the niches the wide plains bordering the Orontes. There the to right and left of the door, and on the stones of the young chieftains of Hasya catch them with hawks, architrave, are long and beautifully-cut Greek inwhich seize the wing of the great bird and bring it scriptions. Some of these inscriptions contain forty to the ground. I succeeded, however, in getting lines, and in some of the lines are over seventy several specimens of the katta, and I was the more letters. What a paradise for the “dry-as-dusts”!



Tho inscriptions, however, are of great importance. cumbered by flesh or garments, they run over the The longest is a letter from the legate to the citizens ruins like tigers. When approaching a group of: touching the lodgment of soldiers and strangers. ruins, you hear the crowd following with such a It begins thus : “ Julius Saturninus," alias Smith, tumultuous noise, and with such vigour of epithets, " to the Phaenians in the metropolis of Trachon that you suppose they are coming to blows. You. greeting." We ascertain that Trachonitis, of the Tet- turn and face them, and they shy back like fish in a rarchy of Philip* (Luke iii. 1), and the modern pond, and there is a great calm. As you enter the Lejah, are one and the same, and that Phaena was ruin you see a form emerging from it at the other the Roman capital of that region. From another side, and when you pause in the centre to get an idea inscription we get the date of the building, which was of the structure, you know that a score of pairs of. a little after the middle of the second century of the eyes are converging upon you, as in a focus, fron. Christian era. From the date of this building we every part. They peep at you from every window, may approximate the dates of the other buildings. from over the wall, in at the open doors, and down. The palace, or residence of the legate, now tenanted from the portions of the roof still remaining. When by swarms of blue rock pigeons, is three stories high. you look at one of these gazers, he returns your look Around this are grouped the other official residences with furtive, pickpocket glances, and soon disappears. of the city. The style of architecture is the same in When you move on to another position, they hurry, all the buildings : well-built walls of moderately after, noisily comparing notes, and again scramble sized stones, roughly dressed; roofs of long, hewn, up the walls like monkeys, and take up their posifinely dressed stone slabs, closely jointed, and rest- tions as mutes. Everything you do is wonderful. A ing on cornices round the walls and on central arches; compass is an instrument for pointing out the position: stone windows and doors, whose pivots project from of hidden treasures. A cylinder that lets out and in a above and below into lintels and thresholds. These long measuring line is looked upon as an inexplicable buildings of Musmeih have a light, airy appearance, work of the Jann. But the greatest wonder of all is seldom met with elsewhere in Bashan. The native my Prince Pless breechloader, which they endow part of the town is of the usual low, gloomy character, with virtues that would make it the idol of all the and the Roman structures beside them strike one at military powers of Europe. first sight as being of yesterday, in comparison with Before these unsophisticated creatures it is the them; but then the native houses are generally built custom with some travellers to swagger and to bully of the undressed old stones brought in from the lava any of them that come in one's way, and this conduct beds, and the structures look as aged as the materials sometimes meets its reward in the bully getting of which they are built. On the other hand, the thrashed; for these men, though shy and sheepish, Roman part of the city has a fresh and modern looking, are not cowards when their blood is up, and appearance, being built with stones dressed and

as they live like wild beasts in dens, they fear no law chiselled, and fresh from the quarry. The accumu

or government. I have always found that a joke, or lation of rubbish, however, is as deep about the anything that makes them laugh, gains their confiRoman houses as about the native houses, and in dence in a wonderful manner. They are astonished most cases deeper, which would prove that the native to hear you use their own language, and a question houses are of more recent construction. And this or a proverb which interests them throws them off view is not unreasonable when we consider how much their guard at once, and you can send them flying less solidly they are built than the Roman structures, over the place, searching out inscriptions, and bringand how much less fitted they are to endure the wear ing you antiquities, in a manner that the Sultan of ages. On the other hand, the native houses stand himself could not command. on much higher mounds of accumulated rubbish There are more people among the ruins than on than the Roman houses, a fact which points to many my former visits, owing to the supply of water holding reconstructions of the native houses. These facts, out, while it is exhausted in other villages. We however, in no way go to disprove the remote anti- follow our horses to the water at the west of the town, quity of the city, but only the remote antiquity of its and find swarms of women at the different tanks or present buildings. It may be added that there are cisterns drawing water. The tanks are very numestructures in the suburbs half cave, half house, which rous, and seem to be half cave, half well. The might be of any age,

There is, however, little women are partly gipsies, and partly from the Arabs accumulation of rubbish about them, and they show in the neighbourhood. They are lightly clothed like few signs of occupation.

the men, and are horribly tattooed. They have the Musmeih is not a comfortable place to linger in. white teeth of the wild animal, and the piercing Tall men armed with long guns, which reach a good glance of the basilisk. Their speech resembles the

. distance whether they carry far or not, follow us sharp barking of a dog, and as they draw up their stealthily, and watch all our movements from afar. skins of water they scream and swear at each other Their teeth are glittering white, and their black eyes like fiends. They are a most unlovely-looking set, have a peculiar uncertain light. Their only garment is who have seldom heard or uttered a kindly word, a shirt, reaching from neck to heel, which, from colour and who have not one attractive feature; and yet and circumstance, seems to have been born at their those black buttered tresses, escaping down their birth, and to have grown with their growth. Through shoulders from under sooty bands, are eagerly sought this garment peep lithe and brawny limbs of a dark to adorn lovely brows in the saloons of civilisation. olive colour. A camel's-hair rope two or three times There is in the town a ruffian who watches these round the head, and a broad leathern girdle, with hideous harpies till they fall, and then, vulture-like, knives and charms pendent, complete their toilets. rushes upon them, and tears off their hair to supply They are all barefooted, and as they are little en- raven locks for the European hair-market.

When we attempt to continue our journey south• I have a coin of this tetrarch struck at Cæsarea ·Philippi in the 12th

west we get inextricably lost among tortuous mazes year of his reign, and 8th A.D

of lava ; and though we are in the midst of Arabs, no

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