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neither can it weaken the sauce, although of service to make several good entrées, as will be shown hereafter.

149. Quenelles of Partridges.

Take the fillets of three young partridges. Take off the skin and the sinews; cut the meat into dice and pound it as directed above; rub this through a sieve. Scrape the bottom of the sieve, and make a ball of the same size as those of the panada and udder. When you have mixed the three ingredients together, add two whole eggs, and the yolk of a third. Then season with pepper, salt, and allspice. Try the querelle as directed above. This farce will serve for different entrées, or first course dishes, which are all to be found under their respective names in the article Partridges.

150. Farce of Fowl à la Crême.

Make use of the panada and udder as mentioned above, but no herbs are required in the panada, instead of which put a little bechamel. Take the white flesh of a fowl that has been roasted; take off the skin and sinews, chop the meat very fine; then pound it as you do for other farces. Put in the yolks of four eggs, after the farce has been pounded and well seasoned. Beat the whites of the eggs, and mix them gently with the rest, stirring the whole with a wooden spoon. Use this farce when requisite. It is generally used for the fowl à la crême; if you have in the larder a cold roast fowl, you may make that dish with it; empty the fowl by cutting a square hole in the breast, the white flesh you make the farce with, and then replace it in the cavity, as directed further on.

This farce is the same which many cooks denominate souflé of fowl; only when you want to make a souflé, you must make the farce more delicate; but for the fowl à la crême, or any other bird, (for you may make either fowl, chicken, pheasant, partridge, or any other bird whatever,) observing only when you make farce of game, introduce consommé, or broth of game in the panada, and flavour of the game in the sauce.

151. Farce for Gratins of Partridges, Rabbits, and Fowls.

The farce à gratin is made in the same manner as the farce à la crême, with the only difference, that you must not beat the whites of the eggs, and that this farce is to be kept delicate and soft. Take the flesh of roasted chickens, or young rabbits, or young partridges, &c. The manner of using it is explained in its proper place. This farce is intended for the stuffing of such articles as are not to be put on the fire again, or very little; such as calf's ears, calf's feet, sheep's trotters stuffed (en canelon), and the minced pies called risolles, as also quails, tongues, and larks au gratin. Observe, that this farce is indispensable in good cookery.

152. Boudins à la Richelieu-(Richelieu Puddings).

As soon as you have rubbed the farce for quenelles through a sieve, have some onions cut sideways into dice or fillets, and that have been sweated white, which you must mix with the farce before it gets firm, to prevent the onion from breaking. The boudins à la Richelieu are a farce for quenelles either of fowl or veal; they are never made of game*. The Author, however, is inclined to think that a Richelieu Pudding of game might be attempted with success, though contrary to general usage. At some future period he proposes to make the experi

ment.

153. Boudins à la Sefton-(Sefton Puddings)

Are made with quenelles the same as those above, only instead of onions sliced sideways, put mushrooms, sliced in the same manner, and sweated white in butter. When

*The boudins à la Richelieu are most excellent eating. In France they are always recommended for delicate constitutions; the general observation, that French cookery is too rich, is here particularly out of place, for there is neither fat nor sinews, and very little seasoning in this dish, and it is of very easy digestion..

you drain the mushrooms, preserve the liquor, which pour into the sauce that serves for the boudins. The flavour of mushrooms must prevail in these puddings the same as that of onions prevails in the boudins à la Richelieu. This dish is very preferable to that with onions.

154, Quenelles of Whitings,

Take the fillets of four whitings. If in a Roman Catholic family, on a fast day, instead of an udder use butter. The panada, however, is far superior. In either case you must soak the crumb of bread in some good milk, and squeeze it well in a towel. Do not put the same quantity of butter as you would of udder, as the butter would not remain in. In every other respect these are made like other quenelles.

155. Farce of Carp.

Take the flesh of two carps, which you must chop, pound, and rub through a sieve. Soak some crumb of bread in some good milk; have a few mushrooms and a little parsley chopped very fine. Set the herbs to sweat in a little butter, over a very slow fire. Then let them cool in a hair sieve. Next put the bread, that has been soaked and squeezed properly, with the flesh of the carp that has been rubbed through a tammy, into a mortar, with a lump of butter of about the same bulk as the flesh of the carp, and season with pepper, salt, allspice, three or four eggs, whites and yolks together: farces with butter, require more eggs than those with udder. Yet before you put more than three, you must try to roll some of the farce in a little flour, and to poach it in boiling water. You then taste, and add to the seasoning if required. When completely done, rub it through a sieve, and let it cool in the larder, and use it when you have occasion. This farce is used for petty patties of carp. We also make quenelles for matelottes or hotchpots of fish, and likewise for the carp farces, &c.

spice, parsley, chopped fine, shalot and truffles (if at hand.) Fry all these ingredients gently over a very slow fire, stirring often with a wooden spoon. When the liver and the bacon are thoroughly done, drain off all the fat, and put them into a mortar, and pound them very well, and season very highly, as it is used to preserve and to stuff game, fowl, &c. in tureens. When you bake tureens of this description in the oven, take care that you place over the pot a bit of common paste, to close them hermetically, one hour, more or less, according to the size of your pie or tureen. When done, take off the crust, squeeze the meat with a spoon all round, and clean the pot; then fill up with lard, and when cold cover it with clean paper, and label it with the title of contents.

This method not only keeps better, but is more mellow in the eating than the meat farcée.

161. Farce for Sausages.

Sausages are composed of only hog's flesh; but as it is not amiss to stuff turkies with this force-meat, the author has thought proper to mention it here. Take all the tender parts of the meat, the sinews being left aside when the hams and breasts are cured, which will be found treated of in a separate article. Cut the whole of the meat into small dice; then cut nearly about the same quantity of fat into small dice also. Chop and mix them very fine together, fat and lean; season with pepper and salt, allspice, and a little mint chopped very fine. All these ingredients give the sausages a very agreeable taste. When you use the sausages directly, you must moisten them with a little water or milk; they will keep two or three days, but then they should not be moistened. They are, however, not so good when kept, as they are liable to turn red directly.

CHAP. IV.

RECEIPTS FOR COOKING BUTCHERS' MEAT.

162. Blanquette-(or Fricassee of Palates of Beef).

TAKE six or eight palates of beef, rub them over with salt, and stew them in a blanc, made of water, butter, salt, and a slice of lemon, till you can take off the upper skin. When the palates are thus skinned and done, cut them into the size of shilling pieces, and throw them into the sauce à blanquette, or fricassee sauce, which is a sauce tournée (No. 19) reduced and thickened. The palates of beef, when made into a blanquette, are sent up to table either in a casserole of rice (see that title), or, a vol au vent, or a timbal. (See head Timbal.)-Observe, that the palates must be always well done before you intend to use them in any manner. This is a very difficult dish to dress, and is rarely sent up in perfection.

163. Blanquette or Fricassee of Palates of Beef with

Peas.

This is made nearly in the same manner as that above; but previously to putting in the thickening, you take a few spoonsful of sweated peas intended for entremêts, or second course dishes, and reduce them with the sauce, that it may give the savour of the peas. Add a little salt and sugar. Dishes of this sort should be sweet, and not briny.

164. Blanquette or Fricassee of Palates of Beef with Cucumbers.

Prepare the palates of beef as for other blanquette. Pare some cucumbers and cut them into the size of shilling pieces. Keep the parings to make a purée, which you

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