*

large enough, however, to contain the soup. Have some barley that has been boiled a long time; wash it very well, and put it with the turnips and chop to boil one. hour. Skim again before you serve up. No bread is used to this soup. Celery cut into dice, with the turnips, gives additional flavour: you can sometimes add, just at dinner time, a little parsley chopped very fine, just as you

serve up.

142. Hochepot Soup.

Let

Cut some carrots, turnips, and a few heads of celery, into the shape of small corks or otherwise. Blanch them, and put them into some nice brown clear broth. them boil for about an hour or more. You must have a few mutton chops done separately, that they may not make the broth look white. Throw them into the soup, with the bread, as in No. 104. Serve up hot, and without any fat. The same is done with ox tails, or some of the cheek of the beef; but take care to boil the cheeks for some time separately in water, and to pour the water away, otherwise the soup will taste like tripe. When you make the soup with the cheek, and serve it up along with the broth, it is a great treat in a country house.

143. Potage à la Bouveau-(Turnip Soup).

Take some turnips, peel them, and use a cutter with which you cut out a few balls as round as possible, but very small. Blanch them, and boil them in some consommé (Stock broth, No. 2), well clarified, with a little sugar. Serve up with bits of bread as in No. 104. It must appear very bright; put to it two spoonsful of gravy veal.

144. Potage à la Régence—(Regent's Soup).

[This soup can only be made in perfection when there is game, and is not very expensive, as it is usually made

* In general, I have my barley from the nursery or the storekeeper, when they throw it out; it is then quite in season for the

soup.

with the unused bones and legs of pheasants; proceed as follows:]

Take the back, the leg, and other bones of one or two roasted pheasants, which place in a stewpan, with slices of carrot, onions, celery, turnips, and a little chervil; moisten with good boiling broth, and let it boil gently for two hours. Skim all the fat, and drain the broth through a silk sieve; have some pearl barley, which has been well washed and boiled in water several times. Boil it in some of the broth. When the barley is done, take out with a skimmer several spoonsful separate; put what is in the broth in the sieve, and pound it in the mortar, with the yolks of six eggs: when you have finished pounding it, rub it through a clean tammy, adding to the broth half a pint of cream, boiled, and salt of good taste. Serve as hot as possible, with the barley in it which you took out

first.

64

CHAP. III.

FARCES, OR FORCED-MEATS.

145. Quenelles of Veal.

TAKE the fleshy part of veal, cut it into slices, and scrape it with the knife till you have got off all the meat without the sinews. About half a pound of this rasped meat is sufficient for a dish. Boil a calf's udder, either in your stock-pot, or in plain water. When it is done and has become cold, trim all the upper part, cut it into small pieces, and pound it in a mortar till it can be rubbed through a sieve. All that part which has been thus strained through the sieve, you make into a ball, of the same size as the meat, which you have also rolled into a ball; you then make a panada in the following manner: you must have three balls, one of udder, one of meat, and one of panada.

146. Panadas for Farces in general.

Soak in milk the crumbs of two penny rolls for about half an hour, then take them out, and squeeze them to draw out all the milk: put the crumbs into a stewpan with a little béchamel, a spoonful of consommé, and proceed as follows: put a little butter, a small bit of ham, some parsley, a few small shalots, one bay-leaf, then one clove, a few leaves of mace, and some mushrooms, in a separate small stewpan, fry them gently over a slow fire. When done, moisten with a spoonful of broth. Let it boil for twenty minutes and drain the broth over the panada through a sieve; then reduce the panada on the fire; keep constantly stirring, and when quite dry, put in a small piece of butter and let it dry further; then add the yolks of two eggs, and put the panada to cool on a clean plate,

to use when wanted. Observe, the panada is wanted for all sorts of farces or forced meats, and you should be careful to give it a good flavour, as the farce derives no taste from any thing else. Quenelles are one of the articles which are the test of the skill of a good cook, particularly of game or fish.

This dish is valuable to the poor as well as the rich, and the easiest of digestion imaginable, if rightly prepared. A medical man, familiar with light dishes of food, would certainly recommend this to his patient.

When the panada is cold, roll it into balls, the same as the two other articles, but let the balls be all of a size.Pound the whole in a mortar as long as possible, for the more quenelles are pounded, the more delicate they become. Then break two eggs, whites and yolks together, which you pound likewise; season with pepper, salt, and spices in powder, and when the whole is well mixed together, try a small bit, which you roll with a little flour; then poach it in boiling water with a little salt. If it should not be firm enough, put another egg without beating the white, which only makes the quenelle puff, and hollow inside. When you have made the farce, rub it through a sieve. If you are in a hurry, you may use only crumb of bread soaked in milk without panada, but the panada is most tasty.

147. Quenelles of Fowl.

The quenelles of fowl are made with the fillets only, all other parts being too full of sinews. Take the fillets of young chickens, for you must never use those of an old fowl, as they are tough and thready. Veal, when very white, is much better than tough fowl. Cut this meat into dice and pound it in a mortar, till it can be rubbed through a sieve. Next make three balls, as you have done for the quenelles of veal. Then pound, season, and try them in the same manner as directed above, as they must be made firm or soft, according to the use they are intended for. Quenelle au consommé clarifié, (Quenelles with clarified stock-broth,) for instance, must be very delicate and soft.

If they are to be served in a ragoût, either white or brown, they must be made firmer, and so on. The farce à quenelles (force-meat in quenelles) is much used in cookery. With it alone you may make various good dishes; and it serves besides to garnish ragoûts, matelottes, or hotchpots of fish, &c. &c. Observe particularly, that when you use the quenelles very small, the force-meat may be very delicate, but if you make any pudding, or turban, or any other different kind of first course dish, in proportion to the size of it you must keep the quenelles firm, which depends solely on their having more eggs; this addition makes the force-meat softer when raw, but increases its firmness when poached.

The Author cannot sufficiently enlarge on the subject of farces, or force-meats, as they are of such general utility in large dinners, as well as extremely economical. It is useless to remind the practitioner of the necessity of using economy-the best cookery, where you omit salt and pepper, goes for nothing.

148. Quenelles of Rabbits.

The best quenelles are made with fillets only. If you are engaged by a nobleman who has game in abundance, take the fillets for the quenelles; with the legs and shoulders make a giblotte, or fricassee, or a pie English fashion for the servants, and with the remaining bony parts make the consommé, or gravy broth. When you lift up the fillets, you must leave the sinews about the carcass.— Pound the meat, and make a panada as for other quenelles (No. 146). Take a calf's udder likewise, which prepare as directed above. Quenelles differ in flavour and appellation, only in consequence of the meat of which they are made. Remember, that the panada and calf's udder are indispensable articles. Follow what is prescribed in No. 145, for the quenelles of veal, which have been mentioned first, as being more frequently used than all others. They are very good and likewise very cheap, as veal is always requisite for sauces and broth. Half, or three quarters of a pound of veal is no great drawback,