water with a spoon, and drain them on a hair sieve; then pour off the liquor gently into another vessel, in order to have it quite clear. Put a small bit of fresh butter into a stewpan, with a spoonful of flour, fry it over a small fire for a few minutes; dilute it with the oyster-liquor; add to it two spoonsful of cream; let it boil till the flour is quite done, then add the oysters, after having taken off the beards. Season with a little salt, and one spoonful of essence of anchovies. If the oyster sauce is to serve with fowl, do not put anchovies in it, but add three or four spoonsful of good béchamel (No. 36).

100. Caper Sauce for Fish.

Take some melted butter, into which throw a small bit of glaze, and when the sauce is in a state of readiness, throw into it some choice capers, salt and pepper, and a spoonful of essence of anchovies.

101. L'Italienne with Truffles-(Italian Sauce with

Truffles.)

Chop some nice black truffles. Sweat them in a little consommé (No. 2), and mix them with the brown Italian sauce (No. 24). If you have no Italian sauce ready, stew them for half an hour in an Espagnole (Spanish sauce, No. 17) only. Let this sauce be kept thin and highly seasoned.

102. La Manselle*.

Make a salmi (hash) as directed above, with this difference, that all the parings, bones, &c. which you put into the sauce when it is done, must be pounded. Rub this through a tammy, and pour it over the members of game or fowls. This sauce must be kept hot, and without boiling, otherwise it will curdlet.

This sort of hash sauce, or salmi, is generally used for woodcocks or partridges.

This sauce is called by the modern cooks, salmi à l'ancienne.

103. Sauce à la Maréchalle-(The Marshal's Sauce.) Take a handful of green tarragon, and boil it for ten minutes in four spoonsful of white vinegar. Add a very small lump of sugar with a little salt. When the vinegar is half reduced, pour in four large spoonsful of sauce tournée boiled down (No. 19). Give it a single boil, and then thicken with two yokes of eggs. Strain the sauce through a tammy, and add to it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Work the sauce well, and pour it over the meat or fish, quite hot. This sauce is to be kept rather thick, that it may adhere either to the meat or fish.

N.B. If you have no tarragon, use tarragon or elder vinegar reduced, and proceed as above directed.

Observations relative to the Sauces.

Amongst the number of sauces here mentioned, many may be found that are not to be used. The author, however, has thought it incumbent upon him to introduce them all, from a fear of incurring censure. If four made dishes, or entrées, only are to be sent up to table in the first course, it would be ridiculous to make preparations that would answer the purpose of a grand dinner. Instead, then, of using a great many sorts of broth, suage, coulis, &c., merely prepare a stock-pot the preceding day, if you have leisure, with twenty pounds of beef, a knuckle of veal, and a hen; do not season with too much vegetable. As this is to be used for sauces, the vegetable would give a disagreeable taste to some of them when reduced.

When you are to send up a dinner of six or eight entrées, and wish to be economical, take a nice rump of beef, and about twelve pounds of buttock, a leg and knuckle of veal, and, as there must be no waste, the rump is used to make a remove; make grenadins, or fricandeaux, or quenelles, with the noix of veal. By this means the expense is reduced. On the preceding evening put into a stock-pot twelve pounds of beef, with the bones and trimmings of the rump, a knuckle of veal, and a few other parings, if you have any. Set the pot to skim, and season it with two large onions, one of which is to be stuck with four cloves, three carrots, four large

leeks, as many turnips, a head of celery, a little salt, and leave the whole to stew on a slow fire for five hours. Strain the broth through a silk sieve, and skim the fat; for if broth of any description be not thus skimmed, it will turn sour in the course of the night, particularly in hot weather. On the next day mark your sauces with this broth; and the day on which you are to serve the dinner, make another stock-pot with the rump, a knuckle of veal, and a hen, seasoned in the same manner as above. This broth is used for pottages, and to moisten the braizes.

Put in a stewpan some thin slices of ham, and a few slices of veal, moistened with some of the broth, which reduce to a glaze. When it begins to thicken, so as to stick, put the stewpan on a very slow fire, that the glaze may get a good colour without burning; then moisten with the broth, to which add a bunch of parsley and green onions, and a few mushrooms; let them stew for an hour. Next make a thickening (15), and moisten it with part of the veal gravy: and keep some of it for the gravy of the roasts; skim all the grease off, and use it when occasion may require.

For the white sauces, put some slices of ham in the stewpan with a few pieces of veal, the bones and remnants of fowl, which moisten with the same broth you have used for the coulis (No. 16), or Espagnole (Spanish sauce, No. 17). When the meat is sweated through, cover it entirely with boiling-hot broth, season with a bunch of parsley and green onions and a few mushrooms and stew the whole for an hour and a half; skim off the fat. This consommé, or broth, is used to make either the velouté, or béchamel (No. 22), or sauce tournée (No. 19), which is the key to all other thick sauces, &c.

The stock-pot must be put on the fire at an early hour. The rump of beef must be kept hot. Make a glaze of the broth that you have left after having prepared every article. This glaze may serve either to strengthen or to glaze. If you are frequently set to work, you must always have a little glaze ready. By this means you have no occasion to reduce your liquor till the following day, and it will serve for the morrow.

CHAP. II.

SOUPS AND POTAGES.

104. Soupe de Santé, or au Naturel-(Soup of Health, or Plain Soup.)

TAKE Some broth well skimmed, with the fat taken off.Take thin slices of crust of bread, cut round, of the size of a shilling. Soak them separately in a little broth. As you are going to serve up, put the whole into a tureen without shaking, for fear of crumbling the bread, which would spoil the look of the broth, and make it thick; add some of the vegetables that have been boiled in the broth, and trimmed nicely.

105. Potage consommé of Fowl-(Fowl Soup.)

Take some consommé (broth of fowls, No. 3) of fowl, and clarify it, after having mixed with it some veal gravy, to give it a good colour. Prepare the bread as above.N. B. This will not serve for a large dinner.

106. Potage à la Clermont-(Clermont Soup.) Take some good broth, mixed with a little veal gravy in order to give a nice brown colour to the broth. Take a dozen small white onions; cut them into rings, and fry them in clarified butter. When they are of a fine colour, drain them on a sieve, throw them into a little broth made hot, to rid them of the butter that might remain; then mix them with the clarified broth, and let them boil for half an hour. Put in thin bits of bread, as in No. 104, and some salt. Remember that the bread would spoil the look of the broth, if put in whilst the latter is boiling.

107. Potage à la Julienne—(Julien Soup.)

Take some carrots and turnips, and turn them ribband like, a few heads of celery, some leeks and onions, and cut them all into fillets thus: Then take about

two ounces of butter and lay it at the bottom of a stewpan, with the roots over the butter. Fry them on a slow fire, and keep stirring gently; moisten them with broth and gravy of veal, and let them boil on the corner of the stove; skim all the fat off, and put in a little sugar to take off the bitter taste of the vegetables: you may in summer time add green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, some lettuce, or sorrel. In winter time the taste of the vegetables being too strong, you must blanch them, and immediately after stew them in the broth: if they were fried in butter, their taste would also be too strong. Add bread as above.

108. The Julienne, with Consommé-(or Broth of Fowl.)

The same as above, only you moisten it with consommé of fowl (No. 3), and put in the back of a roasted chicken, which stew with the roots, and send up with the bread as above.

109. Cressi Soup.

Take the red part of eight carrots, two turnips, the white of four leeks, two onions, three heads of celery, all washed very clean. Mince the whole small, put a bit of fresh butter at the bottom of a stewpan, with the roots over it, and put it on a slow fire. Let it sweat a long while, and stir it frequently; when fried enough to be rubbed through a tammy, add a small crust of bread, moistened with some broth, and let the whole boil gently. When done, skim all the fat off, and rub the whole through a tammy. Put it to boil on the corner of the stove in order to skim off all the grease, and the oil of the vegetables; then cut some crumbs of bread into dice, fry it in butter till of a