777. Pine-Apple Jelly.

The pine-apple, although a very odoriferous fruit, is not very juicy. Clarify some sugar (see No. 774), take the rind of a pine-apple, and turn the best part equally. Let it be of the diameter of a crown-piece, but a little thicker. Boil it in the sugar, squeeze into the syrup the juice of a lemon or two, and put to it some isinglass ready clarified. Strain the whole through a bag, drain the pine-apples through a clean hair sieve; next put in the mould a little of the pine-apple jelly; and when there are about threeeighths of an inch deep at the bottom of the mould, put the mould on ice to freeze. When firm, lay slices of pineapple symmetrically over the jelly. Mind that they are quite dry, and use a little jelly to make them stick together. When the jelly is frozen to a substance, put in a little more to freeze again; then fill the mould, and put some ice all round. If the pine-apple does not look well enough to be served in the jelly, send up the jelly by itself, but keep the slices of the fruit in sugar, as they will serve another day to make pine-apple fritters. This jelly appears very well with a Mosaic on the surface of the mould.

778. Cherry Jelly.

The best method of making this jelly consists in clarifying the sugar. (See No. 774.) When you have skimmed the sugar properly, and it boils, throw the cherries into it take them off the fire; and when the decoction is cold, mix with it some cold clarified isinglass, squeeze three or four lemons into it, strain through a bag, and try the preparation. Next fill the earthen mould, and put it in ice. The author has already observed, that tin moulds would make these jellies turn a dead blue colour.

779. Jelly and Miroton of Peaches à la Ude—(Ude's way.)

Cut a dozen peaches into halves, peel them gently, and boil them in a thin syrup, but not too long. If they are

very fine, you may use them almost raw, but if common fruit, the syrup will improve the look of them. Break the stones, peel the kernels, and throw them into the hot syrup with the fruit. When the peaches have infused about an hour, you may use them for making jelly en miroton, which is done as follows: drain the peaches in a new sieve, take the syrup, and squeeze six lemons into it; put this through a jelly-bag, or through a paper; when very clear, add some clarified isinglass to it, and put some into a plain mould in ice. When it is firm, dress the peaches over the jelly, and put the kernels between, then stick all this together with some jelly; when stiff, put in some more jelly gently, let it freeze, and then fill the mould: put a great quantity of ice round the mould, and some salt, as this jelly is very liable to break; but it is one of the most delicate that can possibly be made. When you can procure peaches fine enough to appear in the jelly, you may make it as directed, but by filtering through the paper, and mixing afterwards with the isinglass, you will obtain one of the best jellies possible.

780. Calf's Foot Jelly.

Although calf's foot jelly is seldom made alone, it will be better to give the simple preparation, which is as follows:Bone the calf's feet first, put them into warm water to disgorge all the blood, then boil them in clear water, and skim till the water is quite limpid. Then put the stewpan on a small stove, and let it boil gently till the calf's feet are well done. Drain the liquor through a double silk sieve; skim the fat off with the most scrupulous attention, then throw a large piece of sugar into the liquor. Six feet make a large dish. Throw likewise into the jelly the peel of four lemons, and also the juice; add to this a stick of cinnamon, a few cloves, a little allspice, and break four eggs whole, but very fresh, into the mixture. Smell the eggs, one after another, for if one of them should not be fresh and sweet, it would spoil the whole jelly. Whip the jelly, but take care the rod is not greasy. Lay the jelly on the fire, and keep beating it till it begins

to turn white, and to bubble round the stewpan. Then remove the stewpan from the fire, cover it, and lay some fire on the cover. This fire is intended to preserve the strength of the jelly, which otherwise (the steam dropping from the lid) would become weak. When the jelly has simmered for an hour on a very slow fire, strain it through a bag. It must be strained several times over to make it quite bright; then put it into the mould, and lay it on ice till it is frozen; send it up like all other jellies. It must be very clear and transparent.

781. Madeira Wine Jelly.`

This jelly is made exactly in the same manner as the preceding one. When the jelly is nearly clarified, pour into the same stewpan a bottle or two of Madeira. As the operation of clarifying takes away the strength of the wine, you must add half a bottle of brandy to it. You must observe that this jelly will keep for several days, and that accordingly what you have left, and what is sent down from table, will be sufficient to supply you with another entremet some other day. This is a common jelly, which cooks frequently serve; therefore, in order to avoid monotony, you must ornament it with another jelly, which make as follows:

Take four spoonsful of the wine jelly, break the yolks of four eggs into a stewpan, beat the eggs with the jelly, and lay it on the fire to thicken; then strain it through a sieve, lay it on ice, and use it for the same purpose, to decorate as at No. 776.

N. B.-It sometimes happens that the jellies made of calf's feet will break, when you turn them upside down into a dish. To prevent this accident, throw in a pinch of isinglass when you are going to clarify the jelly. It gives it a greater substance. This jelly is a monotone, but the sagacity of the cook will in some respect alter this character, for he will sometimes give this jelly plain, sometimes with grapes in it, and sometimes put it in a cylinder mould. When you have turned the jelly, have some of the same in ice, take a stewpan cover, chop some of the jelly very fine, and put it sometimes all round,

sometimes in the middle, and try by your intelligence to supply the deficiency of the art whenever you can.

782. Marbled Jellies.

This method of making a jelly will answer the purpose of economy; for instance, if you have a little orange jelly left, and should have served up on the preceding day a venetian cream, keep this latter in a very cool place; cut it into unequal pieces, the same as the orange jelly; put the whole into a mould, and shake them together a little. When the pieces are well mixed, pour a little melted orange jelly into the mould; observe that it must be quite cold, or else the composition will become livid; if you pay proper attention, this jelly will be as good to the taste as it will be pleasing to the eye.

783. Macedoine of Fruit.

Wine jelly is undoubtedly the clearest, but when you intend to use it for macedoine, you should be particular in putting more syrup to it, as raw fruits require abundance of sugar; any fruit is good for macedoine, but peaches, apricots, apples, pines, &c. require to be boiled a little in clear syrup before they are used in the jelly. Strawberries, raspberries, grapes, currants, cherries, &c., are put in raw. Proceed as follows:

Have in the first place a good and clear wine jelly, prepared as directed in No. 781; then in summer-time use the fruit of the season; first put a little jelly in the mould, which must freeze; then arrange symmetrically a variety of fruits over the jelly, one strawberry, one grape, a little bit of greengage (fresh or preserved), and so on; then put some jelly to make them adhere together when that bed is frozen, lay another row of fruit and jelly, till you have filled the mould to the top. Let the jelly freeze till dinner-time, then dip a cloth in hot water and rub the mould all over, turning it in the dish you intend to serve, and send it up. In winter you may likewise make a very handsome macedoine with pre

served fruit, as peaches, plumbs, greengages, cherries, apricots, pine-apples, &c.; and even when you want all these, you may make a very good-looking dish with pears and apples cut in different shapes, and coloured with carmine, cochineal, &c., some bits of pears coloured pink, and some yellow: some apples very white, and a few bits of green-gages; angelica, or cherries in brandy will give it a good appearance, and not prove of indifferent flavour.

To dye the fruit, you must boil it in a very light syrup; when you feel that the fruit is nearly done, dilute a little carmine or cochineal in syrup, and put the fruit you mean to have of that colour into it. For the yellow use a little saffron dissolved in the syrup; let the fruit take the colour, then when you wish to make the macedoine, drain it very well, and put it symmetrically into the mould. A drop of syrup will tarnish the jelly, and the beauty of a macedoine consists in being very clear.

FROMAGES OR CHEESES, OR ICED BAVARIAN CHEESES.

784. Apricot Cheese.

It will be necessary to premise, that there is but little difference in the manner of making fromages, they only vary in the taste; so that by recurring to this number it will be impossible ever to commit a mistake.

If in the summer season, take, according to their size, eight or twelve ripe apricots; peel and stone them; throw them into a mortar, and pound them with a little sugar. When well pounded, rub them through a tammy, and press upon the fruit with a new wooden spoon. Mix a little melted isinglass with this purée. Beat a pint of thick cream well, and mix it with the apricots also. Taste whether the cream is sweetened enough. Continue to whip it over ice, till you perceive that the singlass is well melted and blended with the mixture; then put the fromage into a mould, round which you heap a large quantity of ice with salt. If you do not attend particularly to the stirring it over ice, the apricot will fall to the bottom of the mould, so that when you turn the ice-cream upside down into the dish, it will