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it stick very much to the bottom of the stewpan; take out the laurel leaf, and serve it up with a cover over; but mind to cover the stewpan with a skewer and a sheet of paper, to prevent the dust from flying into it.

758. Croquettes of Chestnuts à la Ude-(Ude's way.)

Take fifty good chestnuts, and put them into a hot oven, observing that you must cut each of them with the point of your knife, to prevent them from bursting. When well roasted, clean them, and put half of them (taking care to choose those parts that have colour) into the mortar, with three ounces of butter and a spoonful of cream: rub this paste through a hair-sieve, then mix with it the same quantity of butter as before, a pinch of salt, three ounces of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of cream; put the whole over the fire in a stewpan to dry like royal paste, or a choux (see No. 837); when it has acquired a little consistence, put to it six yolks of eggs, and give to the preparation the flavour you think proper, as lemon, vanilla, cedrat (a kind of citron), coffee, &c.; let this paste go to the fire again after you have added the yolks of the six eggs; stir it well with a wooden spoon till it is rather firm; then butter a dish, and spread this paste over, equally, with your knife; cover this with a sheet of buttered paper, and let it cool; when cold, cut it with a knife, take half of a chestnut, and make the paste into the shape of a big chestnut; put some crumbs of bread over the croquettes, then dip them into three eggs beaten up with a little salt, and into the crumbs again; give them a good shape, fry them of a nice colour, and serve them without fried parsley, as a sweet dish; sometimes dip them into eggs only, without crumbs; they are more delicate. Put fine sugar over them after they are fried.

CHAP. XXII.

SWEET ENTREMETS, SOUFFLÉS, &c.

Ir will be sufficient to observe on the subject of soufflés, that they are all made in the same manner, and that they vary only in the flavour you give them. If sent up in proper time, they are very good eating, if not, they are no better than other puddings.

759. Soufflé of Potatoes with Lemon.

Bake a dozen potatoes in the oven; when they are well done, open them, scoop out the most floury part, and mix it with half a pint of cream that has boiled, and in which you have infused the peel of a lemon; to this add a little sugar, a large bit of butter, and a little salt; the taste of the sugar, however, must predominate; yet observe, that the less sugar you use, the lighter the soufflés will be. Now break six eggs, throw the yolks of four only into the potatoes, beat the six whites, which pour gently with the above preparation into a soufflé dish, and put it into the oven, which must not be too hot. When the soufflé is done enough, powder a little sugar over it, and use the salamander; soufflés must be served up the moment they are ready, for they are liable to sink.

760. Soufflé of Orange Flower.

Dilute a little flour with half cream and half milk; set this pap on the fire to boil; when the flour is done, put a little salt, a little sugar, and a small quantity of pounded orange flour, mix well, and then add a good

bit of butter, the yolks of six eggs, and mix the whole well. Next beat the six whites, and mix them with the rest: then bake the soufflé as above, and when it is baked enough, glaze it and send it up.

761. Soufflé of Ground Rice.

Wash and pick a certain quantity of rice; when it has lost all improper flavour, lay it in a hair sieve to dry before the fire; when quite dry, pound it, and sift it, Take two spoonsful of the flour, and dilute it with a little cream and milk: boil them on a slow fire, and give whatever taste you may think proper. Of course you must add butter, sugar, salt, beaten whites of eggs, &c. as for all other soufflés; then send up.

762. Soufflé of Bread.

Boil some milk with a little cream, to which give any taste you think proper. Throw into it the soft part of two or three fresh rolls to soak, rub the bread through a sieve, and proceed with the eggs, butter, sugar, &c. as in the three preceding numbers.

763. Soufflé of Coffee.

Boil a pint of cream with a pint of milk, to which add a little sugar and a very little salt. Take a clean omeletpan, or a coffee roaster, and roast in it a quarter of a pound of coffee on a slow fire. When it is equally roasted, throw it into the boiling cream, that it may acquire a proper taste of the coffee. Use this cream to make either bread soufflé, No. 762, or potatoe soufflé, No. 759, &c., &c.

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Take a quarter of a pound of chocolate, which cut as small as you can, and melt it on the fire in a little water.

When it is entirely melted, throw it into the soufflé preparation, No. 762, the same as the others.

Vanilla Soufflé,

Saffron Soufflé,

Pine-Apple Soufflé,
Rose Soufflé,

and generally all other soufflés, are prepared in the same manner. The grand point is, to make the preparation well, and above all things to beat the whites of the eggs very well, for on that alone depends the rising or falling of the soufflé.

765. Souffle, or Cake of Tapioca.

Tapioca is an article that swells very much, and which requires a long time to be done thoroughly. If you boil it over too brisk a fire, it will become tough; if over a very slow fire, it will be as mellow as marrow, and then it is extremely pleasant to the palate. Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk with a little sugar, and very little salt. Then add the peel of half a lemon; but if the taste of orange flowers, roses, or vanilla, &c. should be more agreeable, use them in preference, according to the taste of your employer. Put a quarter of a pound of tapioca into the cream, and let it boil over a very slow fire. When it is done, throw in a piece of butter, and break the yolks of six eggs, which beat up with it, and let them do over the stove. When you send up the first course, beat the whites of the eggs, pour them gently with the rest, and set the whole into a moderate oven. If you wish to make a cake, sprinkle a mould twice over with clarified butter and crumbs of bread mix with the preparation some dried cherries and currants, and proceed as you would do for a soufflé. When done, turn the mould upside down in a dish, and send up hot.

766. Omelet Soufflé.

Break six eggs, put the whites into one pan, and the yolks into another; rasp a little lemon peel or orange flowers, beat the yolks well, add a little sugar and salt, and next beat the whites well en neige, and mix them

with the yolks lightly. Then put a lump of butter into an omelet pan on the fire; when the butter is melted, pour the omelet into the pan; and when it is firm enough on one side to hold the liquid part, turn it over on the dish you send up; then bake it in an oven, or use the Dutch oven. When it is well raised, glaze it, and send it up immediately, for it would soon lower. Mind, it must be covered very close with a large fire over it, otherwise it will not rise. To this you may give whatever flavour you think proper; but the plainer the better, when served very hot, and very high.

767. Pancakes, French fashion.

Put into a stewpan or basin, two ounces of fine flour, three ounces of sugar, a few macaroons of bitter almonds, a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water, a little salt, a pint of cream, a glass of milk, and the yolks of five very fresh eggs. Mix the whole well; then clarify two ounces of butter, and with a hoop of clean paper put some into the pancake pan; put a very little of the mixture into the pan at a time; let it be well done on one side only, and turn the first one on the bottom of a silver plate; and do the same alternately with the others; arrange them in an agreeable form, and when you are about finishing, glaze the last with fine sugar, and salamander it; put the plate on a dish, and send up very hot. If you have a very hot oven ready, you may put the pancakes in it for ten minutes after which, glaze them à l'Allemande, and serve very hot.

768. Pancakes, English manner.

Put into a pan four spoonsful of very fine flour, a pinch of salt, a spoonful of fine sugar, the peel of a lemon chopped very fine, and two eggs; dilute the whole of this with a pint of cream, melt a small bit of fresh butter in a stewpan, throw it into the preparation, and then have a pancake pan very clean, put a very small bit of butter into it, let it get hot, put a spoonful of the mixture into the

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