703. Peas, plain boiled.

Throw the peas into some boiling water, with a little salt. When done enough, drain them, and empty them into a stewpan, with a good bit of butter, and a little more salt, Keep stirring till the butter is melted, and season with a little more salt, and pepper also, if approved of. Send up hot, but take care the butter does not turn to oil.

704 Green Peas à la Paysanne—(Peasant's way.) Mark the peas as in No. 701. Then take a few cabbage and cos lettuces, a good handful of parsley, and a few green onions. Wash them clean, and break them with your fingers instead of chopping them. Drain the lettuce, parsley, and onions, and sweat them with the peas over a very slow fire. You need not put any other moisture than the butter: take care to stir the stewpan repeatedly, to prevent the vegetables from burning. When they are done enough, add a little pepper and salt, without any thickening, as for peas dressed in a different way.

705. Peas in general.

When very busy, it is requisite that you should have all the peas intended for entrées, or for entremets, marked in a stewpan. Sweat them all together, take a certain quantity for your first course, and reduce the remainder the moment you finish the entremets for the second.

Peas, to be dressed French fashion, should be very young, and of an equal size, for if of different sizes they never will adhere well. Have a sieve made of ozier or of cane, through which they must be sifted; such as cannot come through are used for soups, purées, &c., or to be plain boiled.

TURNIPS.

Turnips are of the greatest utility in cookery, as they are used for seasoning all the soups, for a great many entrées, and also for entremets, as follows:

706. Turnips with Sauce Blanche--(with White Sauce.)

Turnips only find their way as entremets, in winter time, from a want of other vegetables. Cut them in the shape of pears or balls; boil them in salt and water, and butter, and when done enough, drain them and send them up with a white sauce (No. 73), to which you may add a little mustard if approved of.

707. Turnips glazed, Pear fashion.

Select a few fine turnips; turn a sufficient number to cover or to fill the dish; stew them in a little broth with a little sugar, which reduce to glaze, and add to it a little glaze. When equally glazed, dish them; take a spoonful of Espagnole (No. 17), to detach the glaze that remains in the stewpan, with a small bit of butter twice as big as a walnut, which work with the sauce. Pour the sauce over the turnips without masking them, after you have given it a good seasoning.

708. The White Purée of Turnips.

If you want to make a purée very white, you must mince the turnips, blanch them in boiling water, and drain and sweat them over a very slow fire, in a little butter, to prevent their getting brown. When they are done enough, add two or three spoonsful of béchamel (No. 36), strain them like a purée through a tammy, reduce, and send them up, surrounded with fried toasts of bread.

709. The Brown Purée of Turnips.

Instead of blanching the turnips, sweat them on a slow fire, in a little butter. Take care that they do not burn. When they are well done, moisten with three spoonsful of sauce tournée (No. 19), and one spoonful of veal gravy. Give them a good seasoning, rub them through a

tammy, and send up as above with fried toasts of bread. Never omit putting in a small lump of sugar before you serve up, to overcome the bitter taste of the turnips.

CARROTS.

Carrots, like turnips, supply the scarcity of vegetables at a particular time of the year, when all others are dear and scarce.

710. Carrots à l'Orleans.

Take a few young carrots, turn them of an equal size, cut them in slices about the eighth of an inch thick, and blanch them well. Next lay them on a towel to drain; put them into a stewpan with a lump of sugar and a little broth, and let them boil over a large fire. When reduced to glaze, add a good bit of fresh butter and a little salt. Mind that the butter must adhere to the carrots when you serve up, as no sauce must be seen.

711. Purée of Carrots.

Mince some young carrots; blanch them to take off the tart taste, and use the same process as for the purée of turnips (No. 708).

712. Soufflé of Carrots.

Make a thick purée of carrots, but instead of broth use water, in which put a great deal of sugar, half a spoonful of flour, a little salt, and a good bit of butter; let all this boil till very thick, then add the yolks of six eggs, and mix all well together. The moment you are ready to send up, beat the whites of the eggs, which throw in with the rest, and put into the oven for a proper time, in the vessel which you wish to use.

CELERY.

This is a very heating but easily digested vegetable; it will be found of great use in cookery, as it is to be seen in so many preparations, soups, salads, sauces, and entremets of all descriptions.

713. Celery à l' Espagnole-(with Spanish Sauce.) Cut a dozen heads of celery the length of your dish; blanch them; and mark them in a stewpan between two layers of bacon. Moisten with a spoonful of broth, and let them boil gently; when done, drain all the fat. Then dish the celery, and send it up with an Espagnole (No. 17), rather thick. If the celery could be boiled after being drained in the sauce for about half an hour, it would have a better taste.

714. Celery with White Sauce.

Cut a dozen heads of celery as above. Let them stew in a little butter, salt, and water. When done enough, drain them, and serve up with the sauce blanché (No. 73). If you would have the celery very white, blanch it in boiling water to take out the green; then put it in a blanc as you do for the celery sauce (See No. 94); it will then become as white as possible.

715. Puree of Celery.

For the purée of celery, see No. 44. purées are made by the same process.

In general, all

TRUFFLES.

Be particular in smelling the truffles. Throw away those which have a musky smell; wash them well with a brush in cold water only: when very clean, pick out the larger ones to be served à la serviette (on the napkin) or with Champagne wine, and peel the others very thin; cut them to be put into clarified butter with the sauté of

either fowls or game; the trimmings are used to give flavour to different broths. When they are used with large entrées, they are done with fowl or turkey, &c. in the poële, or braize.

716. Truffles, with Champagne Wine.

After having selected the best truffles, trim a stewpan with slices of bacon; put the truffles into it, with a bunch of parsley and green onions, well seasoned with thyme, bay-leaves, cloves, basil, &c., &c.; moisten with a spoonful of good consommé, two glasses of Champagne, some salt and pepper, and if you have a good poëlé (No. 313) from fowls, put in some of it, fat and liquid together; set them to boil gently for one hour; let this cool in the stewpan. When you wish to serve up, warm them again, and drain them in a very clean towel. Serve them up in a beautiful napkin, so perfectly white that it may contrast as strongly as possible with the black of the truffles.

717. Truffles à l'Italienne—(Italian way.)

Wash and trim the truffles as above; cut them in slices about the size of a penny-piece; put them into a sautépan, with parsley and a little shalot chopped fine, some salt and pepper, and a little butter; put them on the fire, and stir them that they may fry equally; when they are done, which will be in about ten minutes, drain off some of the butter; then put a little fresh butter, a spoonful of Espagnole sauce (No. 17), the juice of one lemon, a little Cayenne pepper, and serve very hot. This is a relish.