take fillets of chicken larded with bacon, and others decorated with truffles. Have sweetbreads of lamb already done, one of which put between each rib, and the thickest part of the small inside fillets. When you have thus arranged alternately one fillet larded, and another decorated with truffles, cover the whole of your fillets with a farce à quenelles (force-meat for quenelles). Put a thick salpicon in the centre, and cover it with the force-meat: stick it with force-meat, then put the mould in the hot-water bath (see Note, p. 19), or in the oven, in order to poach the whole at once; next turn the grenade on a dish for entrées, dry the larded slices with the salamander, and glaze them. When the fillets or slices are of a light brown, uncover the rest, glaze them slightly, and serve them with an Espagnole (Spanish sauce, No. 17).*

395. Turbans of Fillets of Chickens à la Sultane(Sultana's Turbans of Chickens.)

Take the small inside fillets of chickens, lard them with. bacon; have ready a farce à quenelles (force-meat for quenelles), rather thick, which should be kept in ice, that it may acquire substance, and be more easily worked; cut a large piece of bread, which cover with thin slices of bacon; put the bread in the middle of the dish, then lay the force-meat all round, about three inches in height; stick the fillets in the force-meat, not perpendicularly, but at equal distances, leaving a separation between each fillet for the reception of cock's kidneys. These are to be put in only when you are going to send up: cover your dish with an earthen pot, or a lid that closes hermetically. Put the turban into the oven, and when done, glaze the fillets with, a salamander. Make small holes for the admission of the cock's kidneys, which must be

* The grenade is likewise a dish for grand dinners, and is excellent when well dressed.

very white, and made to resemble so many pearls. If you have nothing to cover the dish, use layers of bacon ; but a plain cover is preferable, as it is free from fat, and the quenelles are better and more easily poached.

Take out the large piece of bread; drain the fat off by means of crumbs of bread; and put into the centre of the dish a blanquette of chickens. (See Blanquette, No. 389.) When in the season of truffles, garnish alternately with a kidney, and a ball made out of a truffle, ready done; and then put scollops with truffles in the middle. The following is a better method, and is now generally adopted. Have a sweetmeat-pot, buttered, and put it in the middle of the crust. Make the crust with some remnants of paste, filled up with flour, and cake a little, to make it firm. Then put the pot in the middle, garnish all round with the quenelles, and stick the fillet as directed above. This method will be found easy, and when the turban is done in the oven, take off the pot and put the ragout in its room. Drain all the fat, and make this dish very neat.

Observation to the Cook.-I have in many instances substituted melted butter for clarified butter; but you must understand, that butter must be melted only, as, when you let it be quite clarified, it tastes greasy, and when it is only melted, the butter-milk goes down, and you can use the butter with advantage, several times, either to fry crusts (croutons), or for crumbs of bread, &c.

CHAP. XI.

TURKEY S.

396. Farm-yard Turkey à la Montmorenci.

TAKE a large fat farm-yard turkey; truss it up as if it were to be poëlé (see No.313); dip the breast into boiling hot water to make it firm, which will enable you to lard it nicely; then braize it with a good fire on the cover of the pan, that the bacon may get dry and retain the glaze better when you glaze it. Take care not to do it too much; drain it and serve up with a financière (financier's sauce, No. 75), of a fine light brown colour and well seasoned. The turkey will be better if you put it on the spit to be roasted covered with bacon and paper: though not equally white, it will have a finer flavour.

397. Turkey with Celery Sauce.

Truss it nicely, wrap it up in layers of bacon; then boil it in plain water with a little salt, butter, and lemon-juice. Drain it and cover it over with celery sauce. (See No. 94.)

398. Turkey à la Périgueux, with Truffles.

Take a nice fat turkey the moment it has been killed; empty it and put plenty of salt inside of the body, to draw the blood out. Then let it cool, and prepare some truffles in the following manner: take two or three pounds, peel them, and smell whether they are all of a good flavour, and not musked. Pick out the smallest from amongst them, and chop them very fine.Take some fat white bacon, and rasp it so as to obtain the fat only, without any of the sinews. When you have rasped a sufficient quantity to fill the body of the turkey, put the chopped truffles into the mortar, pound them with the rasped bacon, season well with salt,

pepper, spices, &c. then mix this with the large truffles, and put all in the turkey. Let the turkey remain thus for two or three days, to acquire the flavour of the truffles; sew the bird up as soon as you have finished it, and when you want it roasted, put it on the spit, covered with bacon on the breast, and a few sheets of white paper, and take great care when you open the paper that you do not loosen the truffles. Serve up with a clear Espagnole (Spanish sauce, No. 17*).

399. Boiled Turkey with Oyster Sauce.

This is to be boiled in the same manner as in No. 397.Oyster Sauce, (see No. 99.)

400. Haricot of Turkey Giblets.

We call giblets of turkey, the pinions, the neck, the liver, the gizzard, &c. When all those parts have been washed clean, and scalded, to disgorge all the blood, blanch them and simmer them over a sharp fire, then wipe them very clean, and place them in a stewpan. Wrap them up in layers of bacon; moisten with good broth, a little salt and pepper, and a bunch of parsley seasoned. When done, drain them, and after having placed them in a dish, cover them with the haricot (No. 69).

401. Haricot of Turkey pinions.

Take the pinions of half a dozen turkeys; bone them as far as the middle joint, and let them disgorge in warm water; next blanch and singe them, mark them well wrapt up in layers of bacon, and moisten with a braize, if you have any; if not, with a small bit of butter, a little broth and salt, an onion, two cloves, and a bunch of parsley and green onions. When done, drain them and cover them with the haricot (No. 69).

*This dish is one of the best possible, if it is well seasoned and roasted. It is scarcely necessary to observe that the carver must serve the inside with the fillet, as that is one of the best parts of the dish.

CHAP. XII.

PARTRIDGES YOUNG AND OLD.

Observation. It will be necessary to premise, in treating of game, that partridges in particular should be selected from very young birds, the old ones being of no use in cookery. To prove their inferiority, a young bird in Paris will fetch three shillings, while the other is not worth one. The only way of using the old birds, is to put them with cabbages or purées of lentiles. They are good for consommé (stock-broth), and glaze of game, but are too tough for anything fine. Young birds, in general, have yellowish claws; but it will sometimes happen that the claws and legs are of a grey, or even of a bluish colour, and yet they may be tender. Look at the extremity of the wing; if it is sharp pointed and whitish, the bird is still tender; but if none of these marks exist, the bird is old, and unfit for use, except as above-mentioned; or for sauces consommés, and cold patties. You should also be careful to remove the nerves when you bone them.

402. Whole Partridges à l'Espagnole―(Spanish

Partridges.)

The size of the dish must determine the number of birds you are to dress; in general two or three are wanted; empty them as usual, and take care not to injure the skin pick them well, cut off the sinew that is under the joints of the legs, truss the legs up towards the breast, and then dress up the birds in the following manner.

First put the packthread needle through the stump of the right wing, then through the thick joint of the leg, and next across the body; then again through the other stump; let the packthread be very tight, and fasten the knot.

Next run the needle from the back through the side beneath the leg, and then above the pinion below the