in the shape of a cork. You must press pretty hard on the extremities, that they may stand erect on the dish. Placing them in a circular form, with fried parsley in the centre, has a pretty effect, though it is very plain.

Those that are in the shape of a pear, are called à la Dubaril. There are also croquettes of sweetbreads, of palates of beef, of cocks'-combs: but they are all much alike, as will be shown hereafter.

Croquettes of any kind ought to be made only with remnants of fowl or game, as they require a great quantity of flesh; but they may be made with what is left from the preceding day.

344. Hachi, or minced Fowl à la Polonoise-(Polonese hashed Fowl.)

If you have any remnants of fowl, mince them, and put the minced meat into some good béchamel (No. 36), without suffering it to boil. Sometimes you may put the whole into a vol au vent, another time into Patties en timballe (see Pastry); another time you may put it in a bordure (see Pastry), with poached eggs over the minced meat. By this means you obtain a variety of dishes: you may likewise send it up in croustades, but these croustades bear the appearance of a dish of the second course.

345. Legs of Fowl en Cuneton-(Duckling-like.) After having prepared the fillets of several fowls, the legs should be turned to advantage: pull the bones entirely away from the white flesh; but take care not to destroy the knee, which must serve to make the beak of the duck. Cut the bone on both sides the joint, and keep the knuckle. When you have boned the thighs, stuff them moderately with a farce à quenelles (force meat for quenelles); next sew them up with a little thread, and put them into the oven on a flat dish; put over these another flat dish with a weight on it, to give them a good shape. Leave them in the oven till they are quite firm, that they may retain

their shape; next put them into a stewpan, wrapped up with some bacon; add a few bits of carrot, an onion stuck with a clove, a little bay-leaf, thyme, salt, and pepper. Put the knuckles to braize with this; when the whole has simmered gently on the fire for an hour, drain the legs and the knuckles; take off the thread, and stick the knuckle into the large part of the leg, and it will represent exactly the form of a duckling. Put under it a purée of green peas in summer; and at other times any kind of sauce,

sharp or not.

The sauce tomata, or a poivrade (brown sharpe sauce, No. 27), are very good with this dish, which is a saving one. When you use many fillets for a dinner, you should contrive to do something with the legs. If you are particular in binding the knuckle of fowl when you put them in the braize, you will be surprised how much it will resemble a duckling, when stuck properly in the large part of the legs.

346. Legs of Fowl en Balotine.

Bone the legs of the fowl; cut the knee entirely off, and the leg just above the joint; then roll the legs, and thrust the claws into the hole of the leg bone: tie them up quite round, and put them between two plafonds, with a pretty heavy weight over them, to give them a nice shape. When they are become firm, put them between layers of bacon, and braize them in the common way: when they are done, drain and glaze them. Send up with any sauce you may fancy. The love-apple, or sharp sauce (No. 92), will answer the purpose very well.

347. Legs of Fowl à Orlie.

Bone the legs of several fowls, and set them to be pickled raw in an earthen pan, with the juice of a lemon, a little. parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, salt and pepper, &c. &c. When pickled or marinaded for three hours, drain them: then beat the white of an egg, mix a little flour with crumbs of bread, and dip the legs first into the white of

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the egg, and then into the flour and crumbs; next fry them, but mind, your dripping must not be too hot, for if it is, the legs will get a colouring before they are done through: serve up with the brown sharp sauce (No. 27.), or love-apple sauce (No. 29).

This is a very excellent dish when you have had a large dinner the day before; you trim and bone these legs, and put them in the basin with marinade (pickle, p. 98) as before directed, but you must leave the skin very large, and trim them very round, so as to give them a good form; when fried, glaze them, and serve a poivrade brown sharp sauce, or tomata sauce, under them.

348. Legs of Fowl à la Dreux.

Bone the legs, fill up the vacuity with a forcemeat or quenelle; give the legs a round shape, then lard the upper part with small slips of ham, mark them between layers of bacon, and braize them as above. When they are done, glaze and send them up with whatever sauce you think proper. It is to be observed, however, that a glazed dish requires a white sauce, that the glazing may appear to greater advantage. These legs are to be put into a sauté-pan, or frying-pan, on which you have spread layers of bacon. You also put the same over the legs, and cover the whole with the lid of a stewpan, and over this put a heavy weight, to give the legs a good shape. When they are become sufficiently firm over a slow fire, or in the oven, take them out and prepare them the same as any other braize*.

* The entrées of legs of fowl are not in very great repute, but they are a very great saving of expense, and nothing but prejudice can object to them; for when they are well made, they are excellent food, and make a very good appearance on table, as they can be served in so many different forms, and with such variety of flavour.

CHAP. X.

FAT CHICKENS.

Ir is almost unnecessary to particularize what can be made with fat chickens. Whatever can be made with fowl, can also be made with chicken. The only difference is in the length of time required for dressing them.

349. Chickens à l'Ivoire (Ivory White Chicken.)

Take two chickens of the same size and equally white; pick them well and singe them; then thrust your fingers inside to pull out the breast-bone. Having mixed a little butter with the juice of half a lemon, and some salt and pepper, introduce an equal proportion of this mixture into the body of each chicken, and bind them up in a good shape. Then put them into an oval stewpan, surrounded with layers of bacon: next cut the juicy part of a lemon, and cover the breasts of the chickens with thin slices of it and bacon. Pour some poëlé (see No. 313Observation) over them. The chickens will be done in half an hour's time, and retain their white colour. Drain them, take off the packthread, and send them up with the velouté (No. 21), or béchamel (No. 36.)

350. Chickens à la Villeroi-(Villeroy Chickens) Are dressed in the same manner as those above. The sauce, however, is to be an aspic lié (No. 28). The aspic lié is the same sauce as the maréchale (No. 103); put in a stewpan three spoonsful of tarragon vinegar, let it reduce full half, then pour into it six spoonsful of velouté (No. 21), a little salt and pepper, the yolks of two eggs,

and mix this sauce very well. Add to it a very small piece of fresh butter, and work the sauce well, to make it as fine as possible. Cover the chicken all over.

351. Chickens à la Montmorency—(Montmorency Chickens.)

Take two chickens of the same size, and equally white; bind them up as before; next have some boiling water, wherein you dip only the breasts of the chickens, to make the flesh firm. Then lard them the same as a fricandeau, and put them into an oval stewpan, surrounded with bacon; though there is not to be any over them, moisten with the poële (see No. 313), or with some new broth, as old broth will turn any thing red. A large fire is required over the lid to seize the bacon; which having acquired a good colour, you remove the fire from over them, and let the chickens boil gently for half an hour: then drain and glaze them nicely, and serve up with a ragoût à la financière (financièr's ragoût, No. 75). Mind, they must be well done and drained; if any blood should remain in them, the sauce will be spoiled.

352. Chickens à la Condé-(The Conde's Chickens,) Are to be dressed as above, but it is useless to dip them into boiling water: slit them equally with a penknife, and introduce between the slits thin slices of truffles

and of tongue à l'écarlate, cut like a cock's-comb

then stew the chickens as mentioned above, and serve up with the ragoût à l'Allemande (German sauce, No. 20).

353. Chickens à la Turque—(Turkish Chickens.) Take two white chickens of the same size, empty them, and dress them up as above. Then have some rice well cleaned and blanched, and boil it in some consommé (stock