292.

Calves' Feet, farcis en Soleil-(Stuffed Calves'
Feet.)

Stew a few calves' feet as above. When they are done, drain them. Then make a little farce fine (fine forcemeat). (In order to prevent too frequent repetitions in a work of this kind, I have shewn the manner of making the different farces or forcemeats, in a separate chapter.)— When you have stuffed the middle of the calves' feet with the farce, give them a round shape, then dip them into an omelet, seasoned with pepper and salt, and into crumbs of bread twice over, and fry them till they are of a fine brown. Serve them up with fried parsley very green, and send up the brown sharp sauce, or poivrée (No. 27), in a boat, or the sauce tomata.

293.

Calf's Feet, à la Poulette-(Calf's Feet
Chicken Way.)

Stew them in a blanc, like those above. Dish them, and pour the sauce over them.-(See for the sauce, sheep's brains with maitre d'hotel, No. 31.) If you were to put them in the sauce, they would not look so well. Mind, drain them well before you put them into the dish.

294. Loin of Veal Roasted.

Take a fine loin of veal, which cut quite square. Introduce attelets, or skewers, in the flank which you have rolled up. Then fix it on the spit, and cover it with buttered paper. Take the paper off about a quarter of an hour before you send the joint up, that it may be of a nice brown colour. Gravy alone is requisite under the joint.

295. Loin of Veal à la Béchamel—(Loin of Veal with Béchamel.)

When you have served a loin of veal, and very little has been eaten of it, take off the fillet, cover the whole with some buttered paper, and put it to warm in the oven; when well warmed, make a blanquette with what you have taken out; replace it in the fillet, and serve up very

hot. This is as good as a new dish, and looks as well.— Observe, that these.removes are to be served only with the dessert, by which is meant, whatever is left in the parlour; the following remove is of the same kind.

296. Loin of Veal à la Créme.

The same as No. 294. As soon as it is done, take off the fillet and cut it in scollops, which throw into the sauce à blanquette. Put this blanquette into the aperture, and send up with the same sauce under it.

297. Calf's Head Plain.

Take a nice calf's head and bone it, that is to say, take off the bones of the lower jaw, and of the nose, which you cut off as close to the eyes as possible. Then put all this into a large vessel with warm water, to wash and disgorge the blood, or otherwise the head would look reddish. Then blanch it thoroughly and let it cool. Now make a blanc in the following manner: one pound of beef suet cut into dice, one pound of fat bacon, also cut into dice, half a pound of butter, the juice of a lemon, salt and pepper, one or two onions, a bunch of parsley, seasoned with thyme, bay leaves, cloves, mace, allspice, and water enough to cover the calf's head. When the blane has boiled for an hour, fold the head up in a clean towel, let it boil in that blanc for about three hours. When done, drain it. Take out the tongue, flay it, and then replace it. A calf's head must be served up quite hot, with a sauce called au pauvre homme (poor man's sauce), namely, minced shalots, parsley ditto, vinegar, salt and pepper, and the brains well minced.

298. Calf's Head, with Love-Apple Sauce.

The same as in No. 297; with this difference only, that it is to be covered over with love-apple sauce (No. 92).

299. Calf's Head Bigarrée-(Party-coloured).

Take a nice calf's head, which prepare as in No. 297; drain it whilst hot, that you may be able to give it a good shape; then divide it into parts, which squeeze hard between two dishes, placing a heavy weight over, and let them cool. When quite cold, dip one half into the yolks of four eggs well beaten up with butter, and a little salt and pepper, then into crumbs of bread. This is to be repeated twice. Do the same with the other half, only add plenty of chopped parsley to the crumbs of bread, that it may be made quite green. (Have some butter melted, and dipping a paste-brush into the butter, shake it over the crumbs of the bread, otherwise the bread will burn in the oven; this method preserves the colour. Do not forget a little salt and pepper in the crumbs of bread.) Next put both halves of the head into the oven till they are of a nice brown colour, and serve up with either a sharp sauce, an Italian (No. 24), or a love-apple sauce. When you have no other sauce by you but a little glaze, make some good melted butter, and put to it some blanched and chopped parsley, some salt and Cayenne pepper, and the brains chopped. Add a small bit of glaze or portable soup, and you will find this sauce as good as many others.

300. Calf's Head du Puits Certain.

Bone a calf's head. Make a farce or force meat with veal, fat bacon, and sweet herbs, chopped fine and highly seasoned. Add to it two or three yolks of eggs. When made, stuff the calf's head with it, and sew it up all round, to prevent the stuffing from falling out; then wrap it up in a cloth, put it into a braizing-pan with an abundance of slices of veal and layers of bacon, seasoned with carrots, a bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and spice; moisten with a glass of white wine, and a ladle-full of broth. Let it stew for four hours, and serve up with a financière (financier's ragout, No. 75). You must reduce

a glass of Madeira to put in the sauce, as it should be highly seasoned.

301. Calf's Head à la Chambord.

Dress it as in No. 297. When finished and drained, take pieces of pickled cucumbers and truffles cut into the shape of nails, with which symmetrically stick the head; then sauce it with a financière (financier's sauce, No. 75), garnished, larded sweetbreads, large quenelles, pigeons à la gautier, and some craw-fish, which you have trimmed, by picking the tail, and cutting the point of the claws, and taking off the smaller claws.

N. B.-All large entrées (first-course dishes) may be served as removes, as for instance, a large noix* of veal à la bourgeoise (plain way, No. 17), a large carée of veal garnished with vegetables, and, in short, whatever is of too great a magnitude for an entrée.

The noix is the large fleshy part of the leg to which the udder is attached.

CHAP. VII.

DISHES OF PORK, HAM, &c.

302. Leg of Pork.

Take the leg of a porker, rub it over with salt, and put it well covered with salt also in a vessel, wherein it must be left for ten days. Then boil it in water, and send it up with green cabbage all round, and a peas-pudding, which must be made as follows::

Take a quart of dry peas, wash them clean, wrap them up in a clean towel, and throw them into the same vessel as the leg. When the peas are done, strain them through a sieve, put in a large lump of butter, some salt, two yolks of eggs, and poach the pudding wrapped up in a clean towel, to make it of a good substance.

303. Green Peas with Bacon, French Fashion.

These may be served without any other meat; but they may also serve as a sauce for tendons, either of veal or of lamb, members of fowl, and giblets of turkey. It is to be observed, however, that those articles which are served in a deep dish, should be cut up, as you cannot carve them in so much liquid. Take about a pound of bacon from the breast, cut in bits of an inch square, boil it in water to extract the salt, then fry it in a little butter till it becomes of a fine brown. Next handle some fine peas and a little fresh butter in cold water. After having drained them, put them into a stewpan with the bacon, a bunch of parsley and green onions. Let the whole sweat over a slow fire. When nearly done, moisten with two or three spoonsful of Espagnole (Spanish sauce, No. 17), and a little bit of sugar. Boil them a few minutes. Send up either with or without other meat. Do not neglect seasoning with a little salt and pepper, but be cautious of the brine of the bacon.