and white; but if you boil it gently, it will be always good.

232. Breast of Mutton à la Bourgeoise—(Plain Breast of Mutton).

Take some breast and scrag of mutton, cut in square bits, of two or three inches each in size. Let it have as little fat as possible, put the mutton in a stewpan, with a little fat or butter. Fry the mutton till it is of a very good colour, and very brown, then throw the fat out, dust with a little flour, salt, pepper, one onion, a bunch of parsley and green onions, seasoned with a few bay-leaves, thyme, &c. Moisten with water only, and let this boil gently till the mutton is nearly done, then take all the fat out, by putting the sauce in a small vessel. Let the fat rise to the top, then put the sauce again, and add to it two quarts of young peas; let them boil gently, till done. Take out the bunch and onion, season of a good taste, and serve up. This is an excellent means of cooking the lower part of mutton for servants, as the author has done always in the summer. When you have any bacon to spare, add some to it, it gives additional flavour.

233. Breast of Mutton en Haricot-(Haricoed Breast of Mutton).

Braize the breast of mutton as you would do any other meat; when done, take out the small bones and let the breast cool. Then have the meat cut into hearts; warm them again separately in a little of the liquor, and after having drained them, mask them with the haricot.-(See Sauces.)

234. Haricot of Mutton à la Bourgeoise-(Plain Haricot of Mutton).

Cut the breast, neck, and scrag of mutton in pieces of about three inches each; put them into a stewpan with a little fat of any kind. Let the meat fry a nice colour in a

stewpan, or frypan; when the mutton becomes of a good colour, shake the flour-box over, and add some salt and pepper. Moisten this with boiling water, adding a large onion, with two cloves stuck in it, a bunch of parsley and green onions well spiced. Let this boil till the meat be nearly done; skim all the fat, and then add some turnips that you have trimmed without much loss, and have fried with a little sugar to give them a good colour. Put the turnips to the mutton, skim away all the fat, and take out the onions and the bunch, and serve up. This is a useful and agreeable family dish. Sometimes you put potatoes in lieu of the turnips, but take care they do not break.

235. Breast of Mutton in a Hochepot.

Braize* it as above, and cover it with a hochepot.-(See Sauces, No. 84).

236. Breast of Lamb with Green Peas, Brown.

Braize the whole breast; when it is done take out the small bones, flatten it between two dishes, and let it cool. Next cut it into the size of small chops, and warm it in some of the liquor in which the breast has been braized; lastly, drain and glaze it, and cover it with the peas in the following manner.

*Braizes in general. It is necessary to observe, that every thing which has the name of BRAIZE must be done thoroughly, and must likewise be seasoned with vegetables, spices, sweet herbs, &c. Braizes belong rather to a common style of cookery, but to be made in perfection require the utmost nicety of the art. They require so much care, and such constant attention, as to be frequently neglected in a gentleman's kitchen. I shall name the things in most common use, which belong to the class of braizes, viz. fricandeaux, sweetbreads, mutton with soubise sauce, tendons of veal in all their styles, galantines, cutlets à la dreux, ditto à la chalon, partridges with cabbage, pheasants ditto, rump of beef, breast of ditto, leg of mutton, &c. &c. are all braized. Every thing that is termed poële must have its proper time to be done; and as the poële should preserve the colour of the fowl, and sometimes even whiten it, iti not an easy matter to make it in perfection.

Take some very fine peas, which you handle in water with a little fresh butter; drain them, then sweat them over a very slow fire, with a small slice of ham, and a bunch of parsley and green onions. When they are nearly done, take out the ham, and the parsley and onions; reduce them with two spoonsful of Espagnole (Spanish sauce, No. 17) and a little sugar. They are used to cover over the meat. If you have no Espagnole, put a tea-spoonful of flour with the peas, moisten with some of the liquor which has braized the breast of lamb or mutton; reduce it, and season with salt and pepper; mind that the sauce must be very short.

237. Breast of Lamb with Pease, white.

Take a breast of lamb, which braize as above. Stew the peas also in the same manner; but instead of using the Espagnole you must use the sauce tournée (No. 19.) When you have no sauce tournée, a small bit of butter, and a tea-spoonful of flour, will answer the same purpose; moisten with broth only. Thicken the sauce with the yolks of two eggs, that it may look whiter.-(See Sauces.)

238. Lamb's Pluck à la Pascaline-(Lamb's Pluck with Pascaline Sauce.)

Take the head, trotters, liver, lights, &c.; bone the head and trotters as well as you can. Set them to disgorge, and blanch them. Then boil them in a blanc as you would do a calf's head.-(See Calf's head plain.) When thoroughly done, drain them and cover them with the pascaline, which is nothing more than a white Italian, that you have thickened.—(See Sauces.)

239. A Roast Beef of Lamb.*

Take the saddle and the two legs of a lamb, cut on the middle of each leg a small rosette, which is to be larded, as also the fillets. Roast the whole, and glaze the larded

*The appellation of "roast beef of lamb" must sound very extraordinary to an English ear, but the singularity of the name is as

parts of a good colour. In France it is served up with maître d'hôtel (Steward's sauce, No. 31), but in England with gravy under it, and mint sauce in a boat.

CHAP. VI.

RECEIPTS FOR COOKING VEAL.

Iris necessary to observe, that the veal you intend to serve for dishes must always be very white and fat; what you use for sauces is not of so much consequence; but it is certain that very white veal is more healthy than common veal; red veal will disorder a great many stomachs, white never does.

210. Veal Cutlets Broiled à l'Italienne—(The Italian way.)

Take the best part of a neck of veal; cut the ribs one by one, flatten them, and pare them nicely, powder over a little salt and pepper, take the yolk of an egg, and with a paste-brush rub the cutlets with part of the egg, then dip them first in the bread crumbs, then in melted butter, and afterwards in the crumbs of bread again; give them a good form, and broil them on a slow fire, that they may get a fine brown colour. Send them to table with a brown Italian sauce (No. 24,) Spanish sauce (No. 17,) or gravy.

nothing, when compared with the importance and necessity of the dish. At a very great dinner, it is essential to have some dish of magnitude. This has a very good appearance, and is truly excellent. I beg to recommend the trial of a maitre d'hôtel (Steward's sauce, No. 31) under, as the butter, parsley, salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, agree well with the gravy of the meat.

241. The Same, à la Vénitienne, Dites aux Fines Herbs -(The Same, Venetian Way, with Minced Herbs). Take the same part as above; when the cutlets are well pared, take a quarter of a pottle of mushrooms, a few shalots, a little parsley, chop the whole very fine, separately, rasp a little fat bacon, and a small bit of butter, and stew these fine herbs on a slow fire. As soon as they are done, put the cutlets with them, and stew them over a small stove. When they are done, and well seasoned with salt and pepper, skim off as much fat as you can, put in a spoonful of sauce tournée (No. 19), and thicken the sauce with the yolk of three eggs, mixed with a little cream, and the juice of a lemon; add a little Cayenne pepper to it.

242. The Same, à la Dauphine *—(The Dauphin's Way).

Take six fine cutlets of veal, and pare them on one side only, but all on the same side: lard them like a fricandeau, only let the bacon be cut finer; let them be braized also in the same manner as fricandeau; then reduce the liquor in which they have been stewed, with which you glaze them. Serve up with either endive or sorrel.

243. The Same, à la Mirepoix.

Put a little fresh butter, a few small shreds of ham, a little thyme, the half of a bay-leaf, a few stalks or a bunch of parsley, into a stewpan. Then put the cutlets, which have been pared and seasoned as above, over the ham and butter. Next sweat them on a very slow fire. When they are done drain the grease; pour in two spoonsful of Espagnole (Spanish sauce, No. 17), and one

Observe, that part of the veal is always the best for fricanIdeau which is intermixed with fat. The author never had any other fricandeau served at the United Service Club. The other way of making fricandeau is thready and dry.