11. Clarified Broth, or Consommé,

Is to be clarified as specified for the aspic and meat jelly. It must not be forgotten that such articles as are to be clarified require to be more highly seasoned than others, as the clarifying takes away some of the flavour.

12. Clarified Gravy.

Veal or beef-gravy is to be clarified with whites of eggs. The veal-gravy is best suited for the tables of the great. The beef will answer for private families of the middle class.

13. Le Bouillon de Santé, or wholesome Broth.

Put into an earthen pot* or stock-pot six pounds of beef, one-half of a hen, and a knuckle of veal. Moisten with cold water. Let it boil so that the scum may rise only by degrees; skim it well, that it may be quite clear and limpid. When skimmed, throw into it two carrots, two leeks, a head of celery, two onions stuck with three cloves, and three turnips. Let the whole simmer gently for four hours. Then put a little salt to it, and skim off the grease or fat before you use it.

14. White Roux -(White Thickening.)

Put a good lump of butter into a stewpan, let it melt over a slow fire, and, when melted, drain the butter and squeeze out the buttermilk; then powder it over with flour, enough to make a thin paste; keep it on the fire for a quarter of an hour, and take care not to let it colour; pour it into an earthen pan to use when wanted.

In France, these broths are generally made in an earthen pot, but such pots cannot be procured in England.

This is an indispensable article in cookery, and serves to thicken sauces; the brown is for sauces of the same colour; and the colour must be obtained by slow degrees, otherwise the flour will burn and give a bitter taste, and the sauces become spotted with black.

15. Brown Thickening.

Put into a stewpan a piece of butter proportionate to the quantity of thickening intended to be prepared. Melt it gently; squeeze out the buttermilk, then put flour enough to make a paste. Fry it on a slow fire, and then put it again over very red ashes, till it be of a nice colour.— Observe this is to be obtained only by slow degrees. When of a light brown, pour it into an earthen pan and keep it for use. It will keep a long time.

16. The Cullis-(a Brown Jelly.)

Make the cullis in the same manuer as the veal gravy (No. 6), with slices of ham, and slices of veal, &c. When the glaze is of a nice colour, moisten it, and let it stew entirely. Season it with a bunch of parsley and green onions, mushrooms, &c. Then mix some brown thickening with the veal gravy (No. 15), but do not make it too thick, as the fat could not be got out of the sauce, and a sauce with fat has neither a pleasing appearance nor a good flavour. Let it stew for an hour on the corner of the stove, skim off the fat, and strain it through a tammy, &c.

17. Grand Espagnole (Spanish Sauce.)

Besides some slices of ham, put into a stewpan some slices of veal. Moisten the same as for the cullis ; sweat them in the like manner; let all the glaze go to the bottom, and when of a nice red colour, moisten with a few spoonsful of stock-broth (No. 2) to detach the glaze; then pour in the cullis. Let the whole boil for half an hour, to remove all the fat. Strain it through a clean tammy. Remember always to put some mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions, into the sauces. It is necessary to observe to the professors of cookery, that the flavour proceeds from the seasoning, and if the necessary articles are neglected to be put, to a nicety, into the dish, the flavour will be deficient. Mind that

the sauce or broth, when kept too long on the fire, loses the proper taste, and acquires instead a strong and disagreeable one,

18. Espagnole of Game-(Spanish Sauce

with Game.)

The same operation as above, except that in this are introduced the loins and trimmings of either young or old partridges, that this sauce may taste of game. Put them to sweat. Remember that such sauces, if kept too long on the fire, lose their savour, and the game flavour.This method may be thus shortened: prepare a good consommé or broth of game; when done, reduce it to glaze, then by putting a small bit of that glaze in either sauce, it will save time and expense, and will answer much better,

19. Sauce Tournée *,

Take some white thickening (No. 14), dilute it with some consommé or broth of fowl; neither too thin nor too thick. I must repeat what I have already said, that a sauce when too thick will never admit of the fat being removed. Let it boil on the corner of the stove. Throw in a few mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions. Skim it well, and when there is no grease left, strain it through a tammy, to use when wanted,

20. Sauce à l'Allemande-(German Sauce.)

This is the same as the last sauce with the addition of a thickening of eggs well seasoned. This sauce is always used for the following sauces or ragouts, viz. blanquettes, or white fricassees, of all descriptions, of veal, of fowl, of game, or palates, ragout, loin of veal, with bechamel, &c. &c.

* Sauce tournée is the sauce that the modern cooks call velouté; but velouté, properly so called, will be found hereafter.

This thickening is what is called, in French, liaison; the yolk of two or four eggs.

21. The Velouté.

Take much about the same quantity of stock-broth (No. 2), and of the sauce (No. 19), and boil them down over a large fire. When this sauce is very thick, have some thick cream boiling and reduced, which pour into the sauce, and give it a couple of boilings; season with a little salt, and strain through a tammy. If the ham should be too salt, put in a little sugar. Observe, that this sauce.

is not to be so thick as the béchamel.

22. Velouté, or Béchamel, a new Method.

As it is not customary in England to allow a principal cook six assistants or deputies, for half a dozen or even ten entrées, I have thought it incumbent on me to abridge, to the best of my abilities, the various preparations of sauces, &c. Put into a stewpan a knuckle of veal, some slices of ham, four or five pounds of beef, the legs and loin of a fowl, all the trimmings of meat or game that you have, and moisten with boiled water sufficient to cover half the meat; make it sweat gently on a slow fire, till the meat is done through; this you may ascertain by thrusting your knife into it; if no blood follows, it is time to moisten with boiling water, sufficient to cover all the meat. Then season with a bundle of parsley and green onions, a clove, half a bay-leaf, thyme, a little salt, and trimmings of mushrooms. When the sauce has boiled long enough to let the knuckle be well done, skim off all the fat, strain it through a silk sieve, and boil down this consommé till it is nearly a glaze; next take four spoonsful of very fine flour, dilute it with three pints of very good cream, in a stewpan big enough to contain the cream, consommé, flour, &c.; boil the flour and cream on a slow fire. When it boils, pour in the consommé, and continue to boil it on a slow fire if the sauce be thick, but on the contrary, if the sauce be thin, on a quick fire, in order to thicken it. Season with salt, but put no pepper. No white sauce admits pepper, except when you introduce into it something chopped fine. Pepper appears like dust,

and should therefore be avoided. This sauce should be very thick. Put it into a white basin through a tammy, and keep it in the larder out of the dust.

This sauce is the foundation, if I may so speak, of all sorts of little sauces, especially in England, where white sauces are preferred. On this account I seldom adopt the former method. In summer I was unable to procure any butter fit for use, and accordingly I was forced to do without, and found that my sauce was the better for it. This sauce should always be kept very thick, as you can thin it whenever you please, either with stock-broth or with cream. If too thin, it could not be used for so many purposes.

23. White Italian Sauce.

Put

After having turned some mushrooms, throw them into a little water and lemon-juice to keep them white. Formerly it was customary to use oil for these sauces, as, on account of its being much lighter, it would rise always to the top, whereas in thick sauces butter does not. into a stewpan two-thirds of the sauce tournée (No. 19), and one-third of stock-broth (No. 2); and two spoonsful of mushrooms chopped very fine, and especially of a white colour, half a spoonful of shalots likewise chopped, and well washed in the corner of a clean towel. Boil down

this sauce, season it well, and send it up.

24. Brown Italian Sauce.

It is requisite in a kitchen to have what is commonly called an assiette, which is a dish with four partitions, intended for the reception of fine herbs. You should always have ready some parsley chopped very fine, some shalots the same: if the mushrooms were chopped beforehand they would become black; therefore, only chop them when you have occasion for them; the fourth partition is intended for bunches of parsley and green onions.

Take two spoonsful of chopped mushrooms, one spoonful of shalots, one ditto of parsley*.. Throw the whole

This sauce will have a better taste, if the finer herbs are fried in a little butter, and are moistened afterwards with the Spanish sauce, and consommé or stock-broth (No. 2).