ON THE CHOICE OF MEAT.

"I, Madam, who live at a variety of good tables, am a much better judge of cookery than any person who lives much at home; in trying by a wider range, I can more exquisitely judge."—Dr. Johnson, vide Boswell.

BUTCHER'S MEAT.

Beef.-IN the choice of a sirloin, let it be well covered, not weighing more than 20 or 24 lbs.; a larger piece nca never be well roasted; the time which it requires causes the outside to be too much done, while the middle remains quite raw. Bull-beef, when young, has a very full grain, and a deep red colour, the fat of a bright yellowish white. Cow-beef, a grain more compact, the flesh less brilliant in colour.

Veal.-Veal, for dishes, should always be white and fat; for sauces it is not of so much consequence. Very white veal is more healthy than common veal. Many stomachs are disordered by red veal. The flesh of veal is more firm, but less white than that of heifer; if exposed to the air for some time it grows red.

Mutton.-Always choose mutton of a dark colour, and marble-like. Young mutton is very pale, and has no flavour. The good qualities of mutton are perceived, when it appears very brown, and when the nerves of the leg are small and transparent. Young mutton is larger and whiter, the flesh on the neck being very dark and mixed with fat. At five years old, the grain of the meat is fleshy and fine, the fat firm and white.

Lamb.-The flesh of a pale red, the fat of a fine white. Pork. The flesh ought to be of a fine grain, and pliable to the touch; the skin a little thick. The flesh of an old pig is hard and tough.

POULTRY

Fowls. In buying fowls choose those with white legs, their flesh is finer, and the skin more tender; they also look better at table. (For the manner of fattening them, see page 135.)

Pigeons. Very good in September; when they are full fledged, they are soft to the touch.

GAME.

Partridges should be selected from very young birds, the old ones being of no use in cookery. The young birds in general have yellowish claws; but it will sometimes happen that the claws and legs are of a grey or even of a bluish colour, and yet they may be tender. If the extremity of the wing be sharp-pointed and whitish, the bird is still tender, but if none of these marks exist, depend upon it the bird is old and tough.

Pheasant. If the spur is short and obtuse, the bird is young and good to eat.

Rabbit-Young rabbits may be ascertained by breaking the jaw between the thumb and finger; if they are old, they resist the pressure: also by feeling in the joint of the paw for a little nut; if it is gone the rabbit is old.

Hare.-Hares are fit only to be sent to table when they are young. In order to judge of this, feel the first joint of the fore claw; if you find a small nut, the animal is still young; should this nut have disappeared, turn the claw sideways, and if the joint cracks, that is a sign of its being still tender.

FISH.

Turbot of a middling size is preferable. When very large, the meat is tough and thready. A turbot kept three days is much better than a fresh one.

Salmon.-Thames salmon is the best.

Herrings.-Those with soft roes are the most delicate; you know them to be fresh when the eyes are very red, and the scales shine bright.

VOCABULARY OF TERMS

IN USE IN THE KITCHEN.

"In all arts, the terms should not only be appropriate in themselves, but explanations of them should be widely disseminated."—Dr. Johnson.

BAIN Marie, a warm-water-bath-Any flat vessel containing hotwater; the effect of which is to keep anything contained in a stewpan, and placed in it, of precisely the same heat, without altering the quantity or quality.-(See note to page 19.)

Braise-A manner of stewing meat which greatly improves the taste by preventing any sensible evaporation. (For further expla nation, see note to page 103.)

Braisire (braising-pan)—A copper vessel tinned, deep and long, with two handles, the lid concave on the outside, that fire may be put in it.

Bundle or bunch-Made with parsley and green onions,-when seasoned, bay-leaves, two bunches of thyme, a bit of sweet basil, two cloves and six leaves of mace are added.

Buisson, en, pastry piled thus

on a plate.

Cassis-That part which is attached to the tail end of a loin of veal: in beef the same part is called the rump.

Croustades-Fried crusts of bread.

Cuisson-The manner in which meat, vegetables, pastry, or sugar is dressed. It also means the broth or ragoût in which meat or fish has been dressed.

Desserte, Entrée de-Dish made of preceding day's remains.

Entrées-A name given to those dishes which are served in the first course together with the fish dishes.

Entremets-Is the second course, which comes between the roast meat and the deserts.

Escalopes-Small pieces of meat cut in the form of some kind

of coin.

Farce-This word is used in speaking of chopped meat, fish, or herbs, with which poultry and other things are stuffed before they are cooked.

Feuilletage-Puff-paste.

Filets Mignons-Inside small fillets.

Glacer (to glaze)-To reduce a sauce by means of ebullition, to a consistency equal to that of ice. Well made glaze adheres firmly to the meat.

Hors d'œuvres-Small dishes which are served with the first

course.

Lardoire (Larder)—An instrument of wood or steel for larding

meat.

Mariner-Is said of meat or fish, when put in oil or vinegar, with strong herbs, to preserve it.

Mark-To prepare the meat which is to be dressed in a stewing

pan.

Mask-Is to cover a dish with a ragoût or something of the sort. Noix of Veal-The leg of veal is divided into three distinct fleshy parts, besides the middle bone; the larger part, to which the udder is attached, is called the noix; the flat part under it, sous noix; the side part, contre noix. The petites noix are to be found in the side of the shoulder of veal.

Pain de beurre-An ounce or an ounce and a half of butter, made in the shape of a roll.

Paner-To sprinkle meat or fish which is dressed on the gridiron with crumbs of bread dipped in butter and eggs.

fat.

Panures-Every thing with bread over it.

Parer-Is freeing the meat of nerves, skin, and all unnecessary

Paupiettes-Slices of meat rather broad, to be rolled up.

Piqué Is to lard with a needle, game, fowls, and all sorts of meat, Pole-Almost the same operation as braising; the only difference is, that what is poëlez must be underdone; whereas a braize must be done through.

Quenelles-Meat minced or potted, as quenelles of meat, game, fowls, and fish.

Sautez-Is to mix or unite all the parts of a ragoût by shaking it about.

Singer-To dust flour from the dredging-box, which is afterwards to be moistened in order to be dressed.

Tamis (Tammy)—An instrument to strain broth and sauces. Tendrons (Veal)—Are found near the extremity of the ribs.

THE

FRENCH COOK.

CHAPTER I.

SAUCES, BROTHS, AND CONSOMMÉS, OR BROTHS

FOR GRAVIES.

OBSERVATIONS.

BROTH is the foundation of Cookery.

Any trimmings of meat will serve to make the first broth, provided the scum and fat be carefully removedthe broth will otherwise be too highly coloured to mix with the sauce. If this broth be properly prepared it will serve to moisten all the sauces.

When there is a good kitchen, broth should be always in the larder; as the stock-pot must be settled according to the dinner intended to be given. For a small dinner with four entrées (or dishes of the first course), twenty pounds of beef would be required to be used for broth only, independent of the roast; for it should be observed, that any joint roasted in the kitchen is entirely wasted for cooking.

Many families complain, and with reason, of the heavy expense of the kitchen, but do not consider the immense weight of a large joint, particularly before it is trimmed. This expense will be much diminished by attending to the preceding directions.

1. First Broth.

Take part of the breast, or rump of beef with some of the trimmings, and put the meat into a stock-pot with cold

B