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turns eastward and joins Wadi-Ferra'. It is at the junction of these valleys that the plain of Mokhna ends, narrowing to a defile through which the road runs to Beisan. Before coming to this defile, the traveller has enjoyed, ever since leaving the valley of Shechem, a delightful view of the villages, Beit-fûriîk, Asmûd, Deir, and Salim.

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Our intention was to deviate from the direct road to Tûbas, that we might visit Talûse, an important village situated on a high hill to the north-west of the northern extremity of the Mokhna plain. Dr Robinson considered Talûse to be the ancient Thirza, the capital of the kings of Israel before they fixed upon Samaria, the hill of Shemer, for their residence.* the Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 158, he had mentioned this as a conjecture; it was now in his power to satisfy himself by personal observation. We therefore took a pathway which was on the same mountain slope as the road to Tûbas, but higher, and which soon turned to the north-west, leading down into a valley running parallel to that which we had left. From this we ascended the hill which is crowned by Talûse, making our way through extensive olive-gardens. As we rode on, Dr Robinson remarked that all traces of royalty had disappeared, a remark with which I could not but agree, granting that this is indeed Thirza; I am inclined to think so from the fact that the position agrees with that of Thirza given by ancient authors, who say that it lay to the east of Samaria, at a distance of three hours' travelling. With the exception of a few sepulchral caves, subterranean granaries, wells, and

* 1 Kings xiv. 17; xv. 33, &c.

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old hewn stones, nothing of ancient Thirza remains in Talûse. When we had taken a few angles from the flat roof of the Shech's house, we descended by the north-east side of the hill, and after a ride of an hour and a quarter, under the shade of olive-trees, through a winding but picturesque valley, arrived at the mountain basin at the head of Wadi-Ferra'. The mountains in this neighbourhood contain several rich fountains, the streams from which unite in the hollow of WadiFerra'. My map will shew you this in detail.

On the day before, when crossing the streams with which this valley is intersected, it occurred to me that this might be the spot where the host of Gideon had encamped. The fountain Harod may have been one of the chief sources of the Ferra', possibly the fountain near which now stand the ruins of a Saracenic tower. This I give as a conjecture. I have not met with the name of Harod in the locality.

The mountaineers have taken advantage of the water in this valley, using it to drive some mills which they have built. At one of these mills we halted, near the square Saracenic tower, which the inhabitants call Burj-el-Ferra'. We observed here traces of the old highway between Shechem and Beth-shean. Following this way for about an hour, we came to the village of Tûbas. Old hewn stones and wells point this out as one of Israel's ancient towns (Thebez). Tûbas stands on a hill at the northern end of a plain surrounded by mountains, and has 'Ainûn and Tamûn facing it on the south-east at a short distance. The hill of Tûbas is skirted by fine olive groves, but the view from the summit is not extensive, in consequence

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of the encircling mountains. At Tûbas we had to plan our further excursion to the Ghor, and so we repaired to the Shech for advice, as well as to ask for a guide. He told us that we had better go on to Yasîr, a village at the distance of an hour's ride to the north of Tûbas, that we might there procure a guide, who would take us on the following morning to the Ghor. We followed his advice. Crossing an elevation to the north of Tûbas, we came into another mountain basin, having on the north side a mountain of considerable height, called Jebel Haskîn; on the east it slopes down into a valley which is lost among the lower hills. In the centre of this plain lies Yasîr, which I think must be identified with Asher (Joshua xvii. 7, 11), one of the frontier towns of Manasseh. Eusebius mentions Asher as being situated on the high road from Shechem to Beisan, fifteen Roman miles from the former. This corresponds well with the position of Yasîr. Except in the passage already cited, we do not find Asher mentioned in the Bible; yet it must have been a town of splendour and importance, to judge from the antiquities which are found here. Among others is seen at the south of the village the ruin of an ancient building, which has been constructed of large hewn stones, and highly decorated, especially in the frieses of the doorway. We saw a handsomely worked lid of a sarcophagus lying on the ground among other rubbish. Was this building a palace or a sepulchre? I cannot tell. Dr Robinson will perhaps throw light on this.

At Yasîr we pitched our tents amidst luxuriant corn fields which covered the plain. The villagers did not seem pleased with this intrusion, and their unfriendly

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feelings were manifested in their countenances. The presence of the chayal of Nablous prevented them from giving vent to their feelings in any act of hostility, and besides, the Shech of Yâsir had been expressly enjoined by the Metzellim to attend to our wants. The greatest want which it was in his power to supply was that of a guide to the Ghor. But, notwithstanding the Metzellim's orders, and the persuasive arguments of Dr Smith, who had a long conversation with him in his tent, he positively refused to give us a guide. The secret of his refusal was, I believe, that he expected us to offer him a large sum of money to procure a guide. The covetous disposition of the villagers appeared in many ways, and it is not a matter of surprise, seeing that they are Bedouïns who have abandoned the wandering life of their tribe, and settled as Fellahîns in this village; and the Bedouïns, you know, never belie their character.

While Dr Smith was making arrangements for our next day's journey, I climbed to the top of Jebel Haskîn with one of the Fellahs. It was fatiguing enough after six hours' riding in the heat of the day, but the magnificent view from this elevation richly repaid my trouble. A very wide survey of the surrounding country is obtained; the only obstruction to the view being a still higher hill to the north-west. The sun began to set when I reached the top. The colours now were gorgeous. There was a wonderful variety of tints melting into each other, blue and purple prevailing ; while over the whole was shed a glow which is peculiar to an Eastern landscape. The valley of the Jordan was especially lovely, seen through the brownish-green

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oak shrubs on the mountain top. The ravines and mountain slopes of Gilead and Bashan were all distinctly seen, relieved by their deep shadows. On the north rose the mountains of Gilboa, and beyond them little Hermon surrounded by the great plain of Jezreel. Samaria's mountains lay to the left, while behind us was the tract of country over which we had just passed, the villages of Tûbas and Talûse, Mount Ebal and Mount Gerizim, whose ridges bounded the view to the south.

Next morning we were early astir, but were long of starting owing to the annoying conduct of the wretched villagers. We thought that by keeping firm we should at last make the Shech give way, but it was vain. We were already on horseback, but no guide was forthcoming. The Shech with some of his friends stood looking at us with irritating calmness, positively refusing to assist us. They spoke of the dangers of the journey, arising from the badness of the road, and the haunts of robbers, dangers which were conjured up for the purpose of putting an extravagant value on the services of a man who had only to travel with us a few hours to shew us the way. All Dr Smith's experience of men and manners, and the power which such experience bestows, were of no avail against the stubborn independence of these people, and their determination to make us gratify their lust of avarice. I was at a loss to conceive how this would end, when happily the Shech of Tûbas came up, and, seeing our dilemma, offered to be our guide. But you must not imagine that he intended us to have the benefit of his services without remuneration. Far from it. He asked for

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