queen," GLEANINGS, Sept. 15, page 886 (my italics). Would I be wrong in inferring from these statements of yours that you "believe scent to be the only factor worth considering"? What I did say was that too much stress was laid upon it. Further, I specifically stated that it was "a reasonable supposition that each colony has its individual odor." I also said that this odor might "have some bearing, in that it possibly acquaints the queen of the fact that she is in a strange place, and so cause fear unless this is overborne by hunger." Perhaps I should have done better to say, 66 cause fear or arouse a combative spirit," because we do not know whether the queen or the workers give the signal for battle, though I have reasons for believing that it is the queen. Mr. Phillips also cites exceptions to the "rule." If odor were of the value he gives it, such exceptions would be rare; but, as we all know, they are not, hence it is proper to question the extent of its influence. In uniting bees he says they sometimes fight and sometimes do not. If odor were as vital as stated they would always fight despite tobacco smoke or any other smoke; for individual body odor, if pronounced enough to possess the importance ascribed to it, is above and beyond being submerged or eliminated by any such superficial application. In regard to my statement that bees are sometimes allowed to pass freely between colonies, he suggests that I look again. I will answer him in his own words: "He ought to try a thing before he condemns it" (GLEANINGS, page 126, foot of first column). Because he knows nothing of it is no proof that it is an error. He says I have only to test the caging method to find out that it is the safest by which queens can be given to fertile-worker colonies. And you say, "It is almost impossible to introduce laying queens to such colonies, A B C, p. 236 (my italics). I do not find it difficult to introduce queens to such colonies, and I use the "direct" system for the purpose. The caging system has its merits, but its usefulness is not due to its overcoming scent. Direct introduction, by the way, was used for half a century or more before Mr. Langstroth's book appeared. Simmins only developed and systematized it, and brought it to public notice. I have not heard of any way of presenting a queen to the bees, which I have not tried. In referring to introducing queens to fertile-worker colonies, Mr. Phillips cites some so overrun with laying workers as to make it possible to pick them out by catching them in the act. It is comparatively easy to identify the guilty ones without waiting to catch them laying, after the observer has once become familiar with these peculiar bees. If odor is the governing factor in a queen's reception, perhaps somebody can explain why several alien queens can be simultaneously turned loose into a colony of bees and all be peaceably received. They can't? Oh! yes, they can. Expunge the odor factor, and still nearly every example cited by Mr. Phillips is susceptible of a rational explanation. I do not for an instant pretend to be above error in my conclusions about odor; but I have yet to see any convincing proof that it exists to the degree taught, or that it is of the importance ascribed to it. If it is so powerful a factor, how can the multitude of constantly recurring exceptions be explained? As I have said before, we are so imbued with the teachings of our predecessors, whether they are right or wrong, that it is almost impossible for us to study the bees with an unbiased mind; but until we do that we need not expect to advance very far in accurate knowledge of bee life. Providence, R. I., March 20. [This article has been held in order that the points at issue can be tested out among the bees. If the scent factor has been overvalued (and perhaps it has) let's know it. ED.] last season, is just the reverse. Instead of elevating the super bottom upward, and forcing the honey downward, I elevate the follower, set the super right side up on top of it, and force the rim of the super down and off, as you would pull the hide off from a rabbit. One of the secrets in successful packing of comb honey is to get it out of the supers with the least possible wrenching and jarring, which will break cappings and cause the honey to leak. In this respect this remedy is very nearly perfection, as the whole strain of emptying comes on the rim of the super and not on the honey. This method originated with me in an endeavor to get some system that had in it rapidity, and at the same time would do away with the annoyance of the drip in the bottom of the shipping-cases, and in this I was amply successful in both features; and if a description of the device will be of benefit to the fraternity they are more than welcome to it. x1 On top of my packing-table, a little bench the height of my supers is constructed. The top of this bench is the follower above referred to, and should be slightly smaller than the inside of the super; and if the reader should be so unfortunate as to be one of those T-super fellows and uses staple T rests, the follower should be so slotted as to let these staples through. Fasten this bench permanently so the side of the bench will be parallel with the table, to get correct positions. Slip an empty super over this bench, and at each end, just outside of the super, and near the corners, cut two holes through the table. Take four pieces of strap iron, say 1X1, and sufficiently long to reach from the top of the super placed on top of the little bench to 4 inches below the openings in the table. Three-quarters of an inch of one end of each iron bend to a right angle, and near the other end drill two inch holes. Now pass these irons through the holes in the table so the L-shaped ends will rest on the ends of the super. Now under the table at each end yoke each set of two irons together by bolting them fast to a piece of board 1X2 inches. In the center of each of these yokes fasten a strap which will extend downward and fasten to the arms of a treadle directly below. This treadle should be securely made with two arms, a cross-bar, and is hinged at the back of the table four inches above the floor, so that both arms must work in unison. Between the bottom of the table and the treadle fasten a coil spring to lift automatically the treadle, and the ejector is ready for action. To operate it, place a super to be emptied on top of the little bench, right side up. Hook the irons over the ends of the super; step on the treadle, and the work is done. This is true when the weather is warm; but when it is cold, and the propolis is stiff, a light-weight person will need all the power he can get on the treadle, so it is advisable to place the little bench as far back on the table as possible, and figure to get as much lever purchase as possible in the treadle. In obstinate cases a stroke with a hammer or a pry of a chisel on each corner while power is being applied will break the propolis, and the weight of the body will do the rest. To the extracted-honey fellows who use shallow closed-end-frame supers, here is something useful. Construct one of these in convenient position to your uncappingcan and see how nicely it will work. Prophetstown, Ill., Feb. 24. CHAFF-PACKED COVERS. Making out of Old Leaky Excelsior Covers. BY C. F. BENDER. The excelsior covers may be very good if they are kept well painted; but if the painting is neglected until they become seasonchecked and begin to leak, they are something of a nuisance. I have a way of changing them into good waterproof covers, without very much labor or expense. Of course, it does not pay to buy the excelsiors new just to change them into double covers; but if one already has leaky ones on hand, that is a different matter. The strips C C are first put on, coming up flush with the top of the cleats. Then the spaces, S S, are filled with chaff or sawdust, and the whole top is covered with thin lumber. Put on a roof of Neponset or other good roofing-paper, and give it three coats of paint. This cover always stays flat, and gives good satisfaction the year round. I have had fifty of them in use for two years, and like them nearly as well as the regular double covers. They are a trifle heavy, but for that very reason they never need to be weighted, and, if painted white, no shadeboards are required. The paper is quite a protection against heat or cold, holds paint much better than wood, and lasts longer than tin. If you want a lasting cover, don't use cleats to hold the paper on. Simply turn under the edge about inch, by folding over a straight edge, and fasten with heavy tacks. Newman, Ill. |