during a fine early spring. It is evident, therefore, that bees sometimes cure themselves under favorable conditions.

Some years ago I bought two strong stocks in early spring. The bees were vigorous, and the large patches of brood perfectly healthy. The hives being very old, I presently transferred the bees to new frames, and in doing so I noticed that two or three of the rear combs in each hive were solid with old candied honey, where it had remained for several seasons. Well, as soon as this was opened up for brood-rearing, the larvæ rapidly assumed the usual appearance of the foul pest. Evidently these bees had some time been troubled with the disease, but had been self-cured in the interval, so far as the combs used for breeding were concerned, the old store never being required.

I remember an American writer once mentioned that a heavy flow of melilot honey cured his diseased stocks. Some kinds of honey may be more likely to aid the bees in checking the pest, but the greater vitality ensured while honey comes in freely is likely to have been the more important item in freeing his apiary from the trouble.

IMMUNITY.

Finally there is the question of immunity. I have traveled all along this line too, and will describe one or two of many experiments. Of two diseased stocks, one had a Carniolan queen given it, and the other an imported Italian. Each had a sixth slab of candy along in April. By the time the young bees were hatching freely from these queens, no disease could be found in the combs.

Several purchased stocks showing disease in the spring were given queens from my specially immune Italian strain. From a short time after these bees were hatching, the complaint rapidly declined, and the combs were soon covered with a clinging mass of bees, so dense as to hide the surface of the combs.

I have offered these examples hoping to Ishow that the disease can be cured without destroying any valuable material whatever, and even without medicine; and therefore no difficulty ought to be found in disposing of the trouble by using, in addition to such manipulation, so simple and effective an agent as izal has proved itself to be, both as a cure and preventive.

ITALIANS VS. NATIVES.

Recently you gave an extract from the British Bee Journal, where the writer endeavored to show that the more prolific Italians would of necessity pile up greater masses of dead and putrid brood simply because they would attempt to breed more extensively than the natives. Such a statement is theory only, and is not founded upon actual practice. If the combs are occupied by foul matter, no more eggs can develop, even if deposited, until some of the cells are cleaned out; and it is from the fact that Italians, and especially such bees bred by selection for the purpose, are more deternimed to clean out

the foul matter, that they gradually but surely get the upper hand of it. If any bees are inclined to retain the rotting mass of brood it must be the blacks, as they possess the least energy in the direction of brood-rearing, and are so little inclined to clear out the diseased matter.

BACILLUS ALVEI-NOTHING MORE NOR LESS.

I can not find that there is any distinction to be made between a malignant type and a so-called mild case of foul brood. The only difference is in the length of time it has been neglected, and its wider scope for mischief as it extends further throughout the combs. The cure is the same in either case.

PRACTICAL CONCLUSIONS.

With the izal treatment there is no need to destroy any valuable material; and any lot not too far gone may be renovated, as shown, by fresh combs of brood and bees, or by exchanging with stronger colonies. In other cases it has been seen how, by disposing of the old bees by swarming from the original combs, as well as by removal of the queen with or without swarming, the greatest assistance is given to the owner in effecting a cure.

[Izal is a disinfectant like formaldehyde and carbolic acid. It is highly recommended by Mr. Simmins in his book, "A Modern Beefarm." So far as I know it is obtainable only in England, although we have purchased a small quantity for the purpose of testing.

Regarding the general subject of foul brood, there is much for us to learn, and, perhaps, to unlearn. While Mr. Simmins' ideas may not be entirely orthodox from the standpoint of American practice, yet he has struck out in some new fields that jt may be well for us to investigate.-ED.]

WHAT COLOR SHALL WE PAINT OUR HIVES?

Black, not White, Preferred; an Interesting Article.

BY ALLEN LATHAM.

Though the advisability of painting hives at all has been questioned, and not a few bee-keepers advocate leaving hives unpainted, whenever (if hives were to be painted) the proper color has been inquired after, the answer has invariably been, "White." I shall try to show in this article that here we have another instance in which error has been upheld in the practice of agriculture.

To understand why one color may be better than another, and why black and white are brought into opposition in this matter, one must be familiar with the laws of absorption and radiation of heat. There is a law in physical science which, put in simple words, reads: "Good absorbers are good radiators." This means that a surface of such a color or texture that it readily gains heat will lose that heat, or other heat, with equal readiness. It is also true that a sur

face which gains heat slowly will part with heat slowly by the process of radiation.

The first half of each side of this law is well known; namely, that some surfaces absorb heat rapidly, others slowly. It is because of this knowledge that mankind, especially the gentler half of it, has decided to wear white in summer and dark colors in winter. Whether this choice is wise is open to doubt.

It

If one studies nature closely he finds that most animals which live in warm climates are dark in color, and that animals of white fur must be sought in the frigid zones. Of interest in connection with this fact is the change of fur which certain animals of the temperate zone undergo contemporaneously with the shifting of the seasons. has been argued that animals put on white fur in winter, and that animals of the frigid zones are clothed in white, for purposes of concealment from foes or from victims. Personally I believe this to be a minor cause, if any cause at all, and would argue that the true cause must be sought in the phenomenon of heat-radiation.

Before going deeper into the consideration of the great question which we are approaching, I wish to suggest a simple experiment which anybody can easily try, and from which he may gain a deeper insight into the philosophy of heat radiation.

Let the reader select two empty tomatocans and paint one white, the other black, a dead black by preference. Pour boiling water into each, and, setting them a few inches apart, hold the hand midway between them. It will quickly be seen that the side of the hand which lies next the black can is sensibly warmed. Let the experimenter be blindfolded, and, while his hand is extended, let a second person shift the cans. If his sense of heat is at all like mine he can without error tell which is which.

The experiment just described furnishes solid ground for certain deductions, and will let me say: "Dress in white if you are to work in the sun; in black if your work is in the shade." "Animals are clothed in white in winter that they may the more completely retain their own heat." "Bee-hives should be painted white if exposed to full sunshine, but black if protected from the mid-day sun."

If any doubting reader will experiment with white shirt and with black shirt, in sunshine and in shade, he will quickly give assent to the statements in the preceding paragraph. When the thermometer is 95 degrees and creeping up, put on a thin black suit and sit down in the shade-better than ice water, better than ice cream.

A few years ago I began covering my hives, side walls, and top, with "paroid roofing-paper. This was done for the purpose of keeping out the wind and wet. Phenomenal results along other lines led me to consider the color question. This paper, at first a grayish black, soon becomes al

most black. I observed that colonies in hives covered with this paper never swarmed where well shaded, and that, in the trial of wintering, all colonies thus housed fared splendidly.

Now, a colony of bees has not only the heat of the sun to get rid of but its own heat. If a white hive is in the shade it will not absorb heat rapidly, to be sure; but it at the same time can not lose heat readily. Hence the bees must ventilate vigorously during a hot day or night. If a black hive is in the shade it will not absorb heat rapidly, but it will let heat escape rapidly. A colony in a black hive which is well shaded does not ventilate much.

In the sunshine, however, the white hive gains less heat from outside than does the black hive, and the black hive may, and probably will, gain heat on a sunshiny day more rapidly than the radiation can take care of it. Still, toward sundown, while the white hive still has its front covered with bees, and while the little insects are wearing themselves out trying to cool off their home, the front of the black hive will be free from bees, and there will be but few bees fanning the entrance. These are facts.

BLACK THE BEST COLOR THE YEAR ROUND.

I consider that black is the proper garb for hives in summer, provided the hives can be protected from the mid-day sunshine. If unprotected there will be too many cases of melted-down combs. It is in winter, however, that the greatest gain comes from the use of the black hive.

The last statement may seem to contradict a previous statement concerning the furs of animals, but allow me to explain. Possibly, during the winter, surely to be exact, a white hive will lose less heat by radiation than will a black hive; but when one studies further into the matter he will find that color of the hive will have but little to do with the loss of heat from the cluster of bees inside the hive. This cluster is surrounded by cold air most of the time, and hence little heat will get into the walls of the hive to be radiated, regardless of the color of the hive. How, then, does black help in winter?

That last question is one which every beekeeper should know the answer to, and he should have unbounded faith in that answer. What kills most bees in winter with the exception of bad ventilation? Is it not too long a confinement in a semi-torpid cluster? Is it not true that bees wintering out of doors must break cluster in order to eat and live? A white hive does not help in this matter, but a black hive does.

During every sunny day in winter the front wall of the hive, facing south, if painted black, gets thoroughly warmed, freed from frost, and dried out. The bees loosen out on that side of the cluster, stretch their limbs, and are happier.

During the hard winter of 1903, when so many lost their bees, my colonies in black

hives came through alive except two which starved. Again, last winter there was no loss except one colony by an unforeseen accident.

What I have said is based upon experience with hives having a dead-air space. I do not know whether single-walled hives would show the same results. Those who wish to investigate this can do so by tacking a piece of tarred paper over the front of a few hives for trial this coming win

'ter.

This article has already reached undue length, although I have but barely introduced the subject. Let me close by saying, if one wishes to keep bees successfully the year round, let him use black hives set in the shade of trees which shed their leaves in fall, so that the sunshine which is not desired in summer may be of benefit during the cold of winter.

THE HOFFMAN FRAME PREFERRED.

The Propolis Matter not a Serious One.

BY S. J. GRIGGS.

The writer notes with interest the article which appears in GLEANINGS, November 1, by Mr. Alpine McGregor, on the Hoffman frame, and the writer greatly regrets that he has not the time to write an article on this frame himself. We are unable to understand how Mr. McGregor can condemn the Hoffman frame in the way he does. There is scarcely a large apiary in Lenawee County, Michigan, which the writer has not visited, and will state that the Hoffman frame is certainly the most used at this place. We notice your explanation, where you speak of propolis depending considerably on the location. We notice by our own yard that this is where the trouble lies with the possible condemnation of the Hoffman frame. At a yard we have located at Addison, Mich., where the crop is principally white clover and basswood, a person could not get propolis enough to fill a good-sized sugar-bowl, and there are over 100 colonies located at this place, and we should like to see anybody go into this locality and try to get the bee-keepers to use any thing but the Hoffman frame. We think they would be up against a good stiff proposition. Then take it at our Whiteford Center yard, where the flow is principally fall honey, and we notice a considerable amount of propolis; but the Hoffman frames are no more of an annoyance to us than the old-style Langstroth. If Mr. McGregor had very much moving of his bees to do, we think he would realize the great value of the Hoffman frame. It is only natural for people using a certain hive all their life to dislike to change to something else, and we presume this is the case with this gentleman, although, from the experience we have had, the Hoffman frame ranks in the lead.

We can only speak in words of loudest

praise for this frame. Our customers are all well pleased with it, and we are satisfied that it is here to stay.

Toledo, O., November 9.

WINTERING BEES IN A CELLAR WITH THE ENTRANCES BLOCKED.

BY T. J. QUAIL.

As the time of year is near at hand when all bee-keepers must prepare their bees for winter, I will give my experience in the past three winters. The first year I wintered on summer stands; in the spring their honey was nearly all gone, and only a handful of bees left in each hive. The next winter I put them in our house cellar; put a block across the entrance, and left them blocked in. I took them out in the spring, and every colony was alive and practically as heavy as when I put them in.

Last winter I put 38 colonies in the same cellar, Dec. 12, and blocked them in as before. I opened the outside cellar door nearly every day, not to give the bees air. for I don't think they need it, but to keep the cellar dry, and that, I think, is essential in cellar wintering. I took them out for a fly March 27, and left part of them out two days. All were put back. The day I took them out they were perfectly contented, while those left out two days roared, and I had to take them out and put them on the summer stands. I used eight Hoffman-frame hives, and did not weigh them when I put them in. When I took them out in the spring several of the hives weighed 64 to 66 pounds, and all hives seemed to be practically as heavy when taken out of the cellar, as when carried in. I shall put 82 colonies in the cellar this winter, weigh all of them, and note how much honey each colony consumes. I would advise all bee-keepers who have not dry cellars to put their bees in, and if they must leave them out doors, to give their bees all the protection they can-the more packing around and over the hives the better. Bees left outdoors should have an empty super put on, and filled with chaff packed in a gunny sack. Hives may be put close together on the south side of a building, and packed for winter. I give late swarms a frame or two in the fall; and if any feeding is needed I feed in the spring. If I were to winter ny bees outdoors I would block up the entrance to keep out all the cold I could. In my opinion it is cold and dampness that kill bees in winter.

Miller, Neb., Oct. 20.

[The plan of closing the entrances of the hives for wintering, while it would work in a few isolated cases, would most surely lead to disaster in most cases. Some of our entrances got closed last winter by ice, with the result that the bees all died. This has been the almost universal experience. I would advise Mr. Quail to abandon the plan before he has a heavy loss. - ED.]

Fig. 3.-Honey-bee-queen.

lifera queen is much more beautiful than its clumsy relative. Figs. 5 and 6 show the side views of these queens.

The difference between the workers of the races is much less marked. Figs. 7 and 8 give the top views of these bees. Aside

from the shorter abdomen of the melipona worker it might be easily mistaken for the mellifera worker. The side views, Figs. 9 and 10, show more distinctly the difference, the abdomen of the melipona appearing still shorter in comparison. Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate the mellifera drone and melipona worker. For still further comparison I have taken the measure of the tongue and thorax of the workers. The thorax measure of the melipona is about .156 inch, and the mellifera .158. The tongues of the melipona run from 16 to 20; and the mellifera, as we all know, average from 18 to 23. These figures are not supposed to be exact, but will show the approximate measures of the few specimens I have.

The wing of an insect is of as much value to an entomologist in the identification of species as the leaves of a tree are to a botanist. Every species has some distinctive marking of veins and cells that vary but a

Fig. 4. The stingless bee-queen. trifle in the individual. The veins and cells of the melipona and mellifera are quite different, as may be seen by the drawings, Fig. 11, the former, and 12 the latter.

The side view of the melipona, Fig. 9 shows the immense pollen-baskets of this genus. As pollen-gatherers the melipona are, no doubt, superior to the mellifera. Not only do they carry larger loads, but, as verified by my observation of the little stingless bee in Cuba, they work when the honeybee does not. Beginning early in the morning, and working late at evening, it flies in bad weather when the mellifera does not venture out. Of course, this pollen-gathering quality does not rank in commercial importance as does the honey-gathering of the mellifera, but it is still of value in another way. The cross-pollination of flowers is coming to have more and more attention from the agricultural scientists. There is, undoubtedly, much room for improvement in this respect. More bees means more fruit; and the introduction of another race of bees means better pollination of flowers. The introduction of great pollen-gathering bees, such as the melipona, would doubtless mean an improvement. The superior quality of