Q. What other long pieces have you to cut the selvageway of the calico?

A. Two binders, or linings, to strengthen the arm-holes ; these are three nails wide, by twelve nails long and two shoulder-straps, the same length as the wristband, and two nails and a half long.

Q. How many gussets are there in a shirt?

A. Two sleeve-gussets, three nails square; two neckgussets, two nails square; two side-gussets of one nail square. It is usual also to put very small gussets at the wrists, and another at the opening of the breast, to prevent the tearing down of the calico.

Q. How do you make up the sleeves?

A. The large gusset is first sewn in, to widen the top; the sleeve is sewn up to within one nail of the bottom, then very small gussets are put in; the bottom is then neatly gathered, and very regularly divided, and sewn in to the wristbands, which are first made up with two rows of back-stitching.

Q. After the body and sleeves are made, what is the usual way of putting all the pieces together?

A. It is usual to put the neck-gussets in, and to have the shoulder-straps stitched on; then the sleeve-linings are tacked into the arm-holes, the sleeves set in, and the sleeve-linings neatly felled down. The side-gussets must not be forgotten at the flaps of the shirt-body.

Q. The collar, I think, is the last part to put on?

A. The breast is first hemmed; or if it be a gentleman's shirt, a fine linen breast is put in, the collar being very neatly backstitched, and the shirt gathered in the neck; the collar is felled on, both outside and inside.

Q. Is the shirt now completed?

A. Button-holes must be very neatly made in the collar, breast, and wristbands, and suitable buttons put on; and lastly, the shirt should be marked about one inch below the side-gussets.

Finding that the girls had not forgotten the rules for cutting out a shirt, such as poor men usually wear, the mistress desired them to use the remnant of calico for a couple; and then showed me a variety of little models of plain garments, and baby linen, made by the girls for their own amusement: also a large collection of patterns, that Mrs. Jones had given to the school, and which the girls were allowed to copy, and take with them when they left school for service.

"It is a very good plan," said I, "to teach the girls how to cut out and make so many articles; but what do you do with these shirts, and the baby linen?"

"Sir William and Lady Temple have encouraged their labourers to lay by small sums from their wages; during the Christmas time, they are glad to come and purchase ready-made shirts, shifts, aprons, caps, &c., from us, and we let them have them at the price of the material only: besides this, prizes are bestowed on the girls, and it is not unusual for one to ask for a shirt of her own making, that she may give it to a father, or a little bedgown for a baby brother. Lady Temple likes to encourage the day scholars in these affectionate feelings, and the parents always value such gifts very much."

"I see the girls' dresses are very fairly fitted; are they able to cut them out also?" said I.

"We have a few simple rules, and some patterns that suit growing girls; and some of the elder girls are able to fit them very well upon each other. When we have not much work in hand, they practise fitting a calico pattern to the various sizes and figures of the girls: so that if, at a future time, dress-making would be required, only a very little instruction would be necessary. They are all able to cut out their gown-bodies by patterns, and we are glad to furnish them with what suits themselves on leaving school; for it is very desirable that servants should be able to make their own dresses, instead of paying others out of their wages, which, of course, are at first not very large: but, well taught as they are in this school, we expect and hope they will always be dressed neatly and respectably, and even lay by a little from their wages every year; and, to do this, they must persevere in the economical and industrious habits gained in this house."

The girls having, by this time, finished their morning work, the day scholars were sent to the playground for a short time; others went to the kitchen, to prepare the long table for dinner; another to lay the cloth for the mistress and the matron in the parlour.

As the mistress was arranging the patterns which I had been looking over, I found a paper of arithmetical questions, which she kindly allowed me to copy; and as girls, in other schools, may like to know how far Lady Temple's scholars had got in arithmetic, I will now give them a copy of the questions I found in the pattern-box. I believe the

same practice was adopted in various branches of their education: for I saw, on the cook's slate, the cost of the dinner; and on the housemaid's, a bill for brushes and soap, &c. which were required for the school use.

I. A. C.

ARITHMETICAL QUESTIONS.

BEFORE young people are allowed to purchase their own clothing, they should be taught to know good articles from bad; as, also, the quantity necessary for the garment required: for this purpose, it is advisable for them to consider the rules they have been taught to cut out by, so that, by calculation, they may be certain what they want, before they enter shops. Such knowledge will save both time and money, and will give the young purchaser such decision of character as will enable her easily to withstand the persuasive hints of the shopman, that "another yard or two may be necessary," &c.

Calico, linen, muslin, flannel, silk, ribbons, &c. are always measured by the following rules :—

PINAFORES, of whatever size, are generally made of one breadth: the width, therefore, must be considered. For an infant, about 11 nails wide, diaper or calico; for a child of seven years old, a print of 12 nails wide will do.

Questions.-How much diaper is necessary to make up four pinafores, of eight nails in length?

How much print for six pinafores, of twelve nails in length?

The diaper is charged at one shilling and twopence a yard, and the print at sevenpence a yard. How much will the ten pinafores cost?

BABY CAPS.

Choose an even, small-checked muslin, or a plain Scotch cambric the first wears best. Such as measures fifteen nails wide, cuts to the best advantage.

Ex.-If two yards and a quarter of muslin will make two dozen caps, what quantity must I buy to make only four caps?

INFANTS' SHIRTS.

Infants' shirts should be made of fine and soft material, as lawn, linen, or undressed calico; from ten to fifteen nails in width, according to the age of the wearer; as the width of the material is the width of the shirt.

Ex.-I wish to make eight open shirts for an infant. The width of the calico is sufficient to cut out, in width, two pair of sleeves; now the length of the sleeve down the selvage is to be just one nail and a quarter, and the length of selvage for one shirt body is to be five nails:- How much calico must I purchase to make eight such shirts?

AN INFANT'S SLEEPING GOWN.

Such as are commonly used by the poor, because there is little work, little trouble in ironing, and but little waste in cutting out, are generally made of calico, or print, which should measure fifteen nails in width, as two widths are sufficient having no seam on the shoulder, remember that the length must be calculated as double.

Ex. I.-This night-gown being, when made, thirteen nails long; how much must I buy to make up nine?

Ex. II.-If these nine gowns are made of print, at sixpence-halfpenny a yard, what will they cost?

Ex. III.-Or if of white calico at fourpence-halfpenny, how much?

;

Question. A work woman was desired to make up, by patterns given, some nightgowns, of the following sizes: two for a full-grown woman, each requiring two yards and ten nails four jackets requiring two yards and three nails in each; and five for a girl, each taking one yard and twelve nails:What was the quantity of calico given for this purpose?

Question. A young person, in service, had not time to make up a new gown she much wanted. A friend offered to make

up the body, if she would cut off a yard and a half from the dress length; she was pleased at this offer, and set off to make her purchase, calculating the cost as she went:

"The length of my gown-skirt must be one yard and a quarter. I must have four breadths in it; that will be- "(How much?)

"Add one yard and a half, for body:

"This quantity, at eightpence a yard, will be

"Then one yard and a half of lining, at threepence a yard"

What did her dress cost her?

I. A. C.

COUNSELS FOR YOUNG SERVANTS.

BY ROBERT THE RHYMESTER.

NEVER be cast down by trifles. If a spider breaks his thread twenty times, twenty times will he mend it again. Make up your mind to do a thing, and you will do it. Fear not if a trouble come upon you; keep up your spirits.

Troubles never stop for ever:

The darkest day will pass away.

If the sun is gone down, look up at the stars; if the earth is dark, keep your eyes on heaven! With God's presence and God's promises, man, woman, or child may be always

cheerful.

Never despair when the fog's in the air;

A sunshiny morning will come without warning.

Mind what you run after! Never be contented with a bubble that will burst, or a firework that will end in smoke. Get that which you can keep, and which is worth keeping :

Something sterling, that will stay
When gold and silver fly away.

Fight hard against a hasty temper. A spark may set a