with a gesture, thinking as I was dressed in European clothes I did not understand Arabic. I returned the salute, and thanked him in Arabic; when, taking courage, he asked if I knew what had happened there. I told him a woman had fallen into the water and been nearly drowned; "but, thank God! she is saved."

"Oh! that's what women's cries are worth; the devil take all women, and let us be free of them."

"What, are there not more women than men?" I said, “La la ma hu scai taieb nosctahi darar lilgair" (no, no, we must not wish evil to others).

"What evil? if it had been anything of value that they had lost, it might have been worth while shouting -but only a woman!"

I laughed and left him to continue his walk, and he went on cursing the women and shaking his head; but I could not comprehend what he said.

On the morning of the 9th I left Esnah, and arrived at Kene on the 11th at eight A.M.; here I found a little careb to take me to Cairo. So the same evening we unloosed the careb from the watad; it contained me, the raies, his son, two sailors, and a numerous family of rats. After a sail of fifteen days we reached Bulac. On landing, I bargained for a cart for the baggage, and a donkey for myself, to convey us from Bulac to the English Hotel, which I reached pale and weak, and hardly recognisable.

CHAPTER XLI.

STAY AT CAIRO TEN DAYS, AND DEPARTURE FOR ALEXANDRIA AND ENGLAND.

BEING at the hotel I began to take a warm bath every morning and felt my health improve-I had nothing else to do than play the epicure, which was only fair after having undergone five months' deprivation. I also began to give some lessons in Arabic to a Scotch gentleman, Mr. C. J. L., who was going to Jerusalem and Syria, and I had much pleasure in resuming my interrupted profession. Every day, at three P.M., I mounted a donkey, and went to enjoy the fresh air of Giobra, a street or promenade about two miles long, with sycamore and loback trees on both sides, whose thick and compact branches formed a good shade, and removed in some degree from my mind the recollections of the sufferings in the Desert. After a sojourn of ten days I went to Alexandria, hoping to find the French steamer to take me to Marseilles; but it had been damaged by a tempest in coming from Malta, and was obliged to remain at Alexandria to repair the machinery, and had no favourable weather to go to Beirout-for during the storm it had

been obliged to wait four days after the fixed time. Seeing it would be late I determined to go by the Peninsular and Oriental steamer direct to. England, and took a passage in it, quitting Alexandria at five A.M. of the 6th February, 1852, in the Bentinck, Captain Hallock. We had a prosperous voyage to Malta, though I spent most of the time in my bed. We reached Malta about four o'clock on the fourth day after leaving Alexandria, and were to remain overnight there. As soon as we were at the harbour of the Lazaretto I sent a person to inquire if the English family who lived near was the family-if so, to tell them Signor Churi was on board. The messenger soon returned with the gentleman of the family. After saluting each other I made many inquiries after his mother, sisters, and brother; but night coming on we could only converse for a short time. The next morning the whole family came to see me. When all the expressions of congratulation, &c., were gone through, it seemed to me a dream to be talking to such agreeable people. Mrs. inquired if I had received her two letters, and I answered I had not. She thought I would have remained some time in Malta to re-establish my health, but I wanted to get to London. After a short time they returned home; I promised to tell them more about my travels when in London. After my friends had left me I was invited by an Anglican clergyman to go with him to see the great harbour of Malta. I agreed to his offer, and we hired a boat. When

we were returning I met Mr. who had come again to see me, and I was much grieved to have lost his conversation; but as the clergyman with me had met with a brother clergyman, we each contrived to talk with our friends from our boats for a little time. At two P.M. on the 10th February, we weighed anchor for Gibraltar, and had a fortunate passage thither. We arrived on the night of the 14th, and left it again at noon on the following day. The sea at that time was rough, but it became calmer towards evening, and we had the wind astern. After a fortunate voyage we reached Southampton on the 20th February, 1852. I remained there one day, and then went to Londonthe beginning and termination of my journey and its

troubles.

CHAPTER XLII;

AND LAST.

As science was to benefit by the research and fatigues undergone in prosecuting this journey, I am induced to add some remarks on the journey undertaken by Captain Peel, and relate some information we received from three people regarding the interior.

Truly it was a great and noble enterprise that Captain Peel attempted: there was every possibility of succeeding in our purpose if the condition—the sine qua non of performing the journey did not fail; but this necessary condition was health. I am certain several have talked of Captain Peel's attempt, and perhaps judged ill. I know no one with so much decision, firmness, and perseverance, to renounce the ease and pleasure, a civilised country, and the best and noblest society in the world-which England affords-who was willing to sacrifice himself in attempting a difficult enterprise, honourable to himself and his nation, and useful to the whole world. Who would like to trust himself in a horrible desert ?—who would voluntarily give up the delights and pleasures of his own native land to cross the Deserts of Africa in summer, and