some time; after that I slept in peace, and was awakened early by the cries of the Arabs. I arose and went down to the Nile to wash. A couple of pieces of bread were my breakfast. By-and-by an Arab appeared leading a lamb, for which he asked seventeen piastres. I asked whether he thought the lamb or the piastres would weigh the most. My friend, finding himself in a puzzle, asked how much I would give.

"Six piastres."

"Ah! that is too little."

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No, it is not too little-it is a fair price; if you don't like it get out of here with your lamb."

Another now came and begged me to give another piastre, to which, after many solicitations, I consented, and took the lamb for seven piastres (164d.) I called one of my Arabs to kill it; it was soon knocked down, and the knife did its work. I told them to give me the hind legs and they might have the remainder. I cut the meat into small pieces, and fried it, to take with me as provision in the Desert. Having cooked a good quantity, I gave the rest to the Arabs. The Kabir then asked me to lend him a pan to boil some of the flesh. When he had got it he filled it with flesh and bones and put it on the fire. By good luck I had remained to watch his proceedings, so I asked him what he meant by putting the pan on the fire without any water. (Generally the Arabs eat their meat roasted, and never boiled.) He told me "to boil meat." "So you want to boil meat without a drop of water?" I added,

"Are you superannuated or stupid? Whoever gave you the name of Sogaiar (very little fellow) has not made a mistake: truly you are little in stature and little in mind. Your mother was enlightened by the Prophet in giving you such a name." All the Arabs present ridiculed him, and he defended himself by saying his wife always boiled the meat, not he. Whilst occupied in bantering the poor man, Dris arrived with the bag of rob. "Is that all rob," said I. "Eh, wallah! Iasidi, (It is, my lord.) Taieb Catir." I gave him three piastres for the milk and one for the rob. In return, he wished "God to multiply my goods, make me ever rich, and cover me with his abundance; and that blessings might be showered upon me," &c. &c. I opened the otre and threw in a handful of salt to coagulate the milk, and placed it beside me. Asking for a piastre's worth of onions, so many were brought me that I knew not where to put them. I chose a good quantity, and gave the Arabs the rest. I was at the same time accosted by a lad, who put five piastres into my hand, begging me to change them, for, being cracked, no one would take them. I gave him some sound ones, which delighted him so much that he offered me, for gratitude, a book (hogiab) written by the Sheik, telling me it would preserve me from all evil. I took it, thanking him. On opening the sheet of paper called a book, I found written in it the Fatha and the following sentences:

"And Mohammed, our Prophet and Apostle, will defend him from all evil, from every wicked spirit; will make

him happy with that girl whom he will marry, and all his family; will multiply his bread and herds. Mohammed bless him, God pray on his favourite Prophet whom he saluted Apostle of the faithful, not of the heretics, whom he cursed! Amen." After copying this out I folded it up and restored it, saying, I was not a Mussulman to carry such a book, and I did not like to deprive him of such a treasure, for which, doubtless, his poor mother had paid the Sheik ten piastres for writing. He folded it up in a skin as before, and put it round his neck. He appeared offended at my refusing his offering of gratitude, so I told him I had other books written by the Sheik of my religion, which were very long, and that I ought to read them and carry them round my neck. Having got quit of him, I told the Arabs to prepare the camels. They said they had already knelt down to be loaded. After a few minutes I remounted, and bade adieu to the miserable village of Abuhamed.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

DEPARTURE FROM ABUHAMED, DECEMBER 21, AND JOURNEY TO MORRAT.

LEAVING Abuhamed, we were again, sicut erat in principio, in the Desert of Corosco. On looking on this vast and terrible Desert, in which I had suffered so much, I felt myself overshadowed by a black sadness and heavy oppression, and my mind called out for pity. But who, in such circumstances, is touched with pity for a troubled spirit imploring help? None but the Creator, who knows perfectly such emotions; so I directed my oppressed mind to him-Domine dirige gressus meos in viam salutis. Then I commenced to sing the vespers. In the meantime we advanced into the Desert. I felt the heat very much, and was obliged to open my umbrella, either on account of the real heat or from the remem→ brance of past suffering, which made me fancy it. We travelled till sunset. As I was well stored with provisions, I had only to spread my carpet and take from my bag a piece of meat, two or three biscuits, and some onions, and my supper was ready. The water was good and clear from having been put into large rai of the

best quality. Recommending myself to God, I fell asleep. I awoke once in the night, feeling cold; but, covering myself up, I slept till dawn, when I called the Arabs, who arose trembling with cold from the north wind, and loaded the camels. At half-past four we were en route. At ten A.M. we met with some Arabs coming from Corosco. After exchanging their salutation of peace, I asked if they had met a Frank and Kabir. They said, "Yes, at Morrat."

They were going to Barbar and Scendi to buy camels and dromedaries.

I told them: "God open a smooth road before you, and show you good!"

They answered: "God prolong your life and lead you in peace!"

The Arabs have a plan of travelling in winter different from that in summer. They travel all the day and rest at night through winter. The heat was rather oppressive. At noon I took some meat from the bag tied to the saddle in front, and three biscuits. The cloth was soon prepared, hands supplying the place of table, table-cloth, knife, and fork. The Arabs gnawed at some bones remaining from what they had yesterday. At six we halted for the night.

On the 23rd we travelled from dawn to sunset in safety, without anything remarkable occurring; the night we spent amongst the hills, which was somewhat cold. On the morning of the 24th we met a haggian from Corosco carrying the governor's letters. He told me he