enjoyed. It is enough to say that the group amounted to more than two thousand Arabs and camels-as several of the Arabs told us. A great portion belonged to the sheik of the tribe. Arrived at the water, we dismounted, but it was not possible to drink a mouthful of it, it being so bad in look and taste. The Arabs drank it, washed their dirty rags in it, and then dipped themselves in it by way of refreshment, and silencing certain things that offendant pias aures. The place was magnificent; the trees of sant around this little lake were gigantic; the confusion of voices, bellowing of the camels, with the more pleasing bleating of their young, were grateful to the weary traveller, even though suffering from fever. After resting a little, without unloading, we resumed our journey towards the east. The Arabs expected to find their brothers a little distance from the water, but they had left the locality that same morning, so we continued our journey without halting. After two hours travel we met with another troop of camels grazing on the trees of sant; but they were inferior in number to those at the watering place. We only tarried a minute to drink a little milk.

At sunset we arrived at a plain, where we were to bivouac. The Kabir Cucco advised the Captain to have his gun ready, on account of the Arabs Hababib, enemies to his tribe, who were roving about, seeking to kill them. I asked Cucco if it were these who had stirred up the war against them, and where they lived? He said, "On the confines of Darfor, and some in the Desert of Dongola."

On my inquiring if they were more numerous than his tribe, he said, "No, but they are more cruel. Our sheik, Fadl, when he is mounted for war, is surrounded by 1,000 horsemen, and 2,000 haggians, all armed with lances, and swords, and shields. We are only afraid of the government. If the medir of Lobaied would give us leave to go against the Hababib, we would kill them all in two weeks." I slept profoundly in spite of trying to watch, because fever and weariness were too heavy on me. The Captain remained awake all night—we set off next morn- · ing at half-past four in an easterly direction. At noon we dismounted in a forest of sant, where we found the brethren of our Arabs and their camels. They gave us some sour milk to drink, which I liked very much for its acid taste. At three, P.M., we again set off, the Captain going after a flock of birds called desert hens; I told the Kabir Cucco to remain behind and escort him, and I would go on with Abuscianeb (beautiful teeth: and beautiful teeth he had), and the slave Said. We three went on a little distance and met with an Arab Cabbasce, who was looking after some camels feeding there. I saluted him, but he did not reply; I then asked for some milk, promising him some money. He looked at me grimly, and said rudely, "The camels have no milk." I repeated my request, telling him I was ill and thirsty: he returned the same answer. I said, "Do you think a Turk would ask you as civilly? He would put a pistol to your forehead and bid you create milk immediately, whilst a Frank promises you money for it." The two servants urged him to bring

some, but the word Turk had put him in such a rage, that he took the two spears he had on the dromedary, threw himself off, and ran towards me crying, " You Turk, with the pistol!" I was really frightened, having no arms but fever. My Arab and the slave placed themselves before him with their bare breasts, saying, "What are you doing?-don't you know who he is? you are drunk; can't you speak civilly?-othewise he will take his pistol and kill you. Wallah Elkauagia Ibn Halal Indo Sabr Catir." I told him not to be afraid, I had no arms; adding, was he right to behave in this manner, denying hospitality to an invalid? "Are you not ashamed?—if I were not so ill I would only break your two spears over your bare shoulders. You have conquered me, O Cabbasce, but go hence,” I said, "or my companion will pay you off for your incivility." The Arabs allowed him to go off, and he soon ran away, after fastening his dromedary to a tree. After some time the Captain rejoined me, and I told him, whilst he had been victimising the desert hens an Arab had been anxious to make a victim of me. Cucco was angry with Abuscianeb and Said for not having kept him till they returned. They excused themselves by saying it was my desire. In the evening, about five, we saw a flock of gazelles bounding gaily before us; at half-past six we dismounted to rest.

The next morning (7th inst.) we saw the trees on the eastern side of the White Sea, which we thought we should reach by noon; but our Kabir, thinking he could do wonders, took a curved instead of a straightforward

direction, and lost his way. The Captain told him he was wrong, but he replied we should see he would bring us out close to Kartum. "Verba volant," said I. The filthy water was just at end, and it was impossible to drink it the heat was excessive. About eleven we met a flock of goats and got a little milk; I asked one of the herds for water, but could not drink it. The Captain, seeing some Arabs at a distance with numerous cattle, spurred his dromedary towards them. I was burning with fever, and the sun made my eyes water. I could not open my mouth; my tongue was glued to my palate; my head felt whirling round; and I knew not where I was. Thanks to the shepherds, who put us in the right path (or I think my days would have been ended ere we got there), we came again in sight of the sea, after undergoing an infernal degree of heat; half an hour more and we reached the shore. The Kabir immediately brought me some water, and Ali lost no time in cooking some rice, which restored us a little. About four we set out again, and at eight reached an Arab family living on the shore. The next morning early the Captain and Cucco set off for Kartum; I and the others followed more leisurely. Cucco's dromedary having been treated without mercy during the journey (the cook riding on the top of the baggage), could not move near Omdorman, and was killed directly, because the Suds and the Arabs eat camels' flesh in those countries. I wished to go down to the sea, and placing the baggage on the banks, near a tree of Haraz, I awaited the Captain.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

STAY AT OMDORMAN, AND DEPARTURE NEXT DAY FOR

BARBAR.

I HAD told the Captain that I would descend to the west shore of the White Sea, instead of carrying all the baggage to Kartum; moreover he might find a boat for setting off immediately for Barbar. He was content with this proposition, and left me at liberty to remain where I pleased: thus we halted under the tree of Haraz.

I found the sea and land quite a new country. As we had gone up the two seas were swollen, and almost covered the island of Tuta, having overflowed their usual courses on both banks; now, being winter, they were in their natural beds, showing the island and other ground. All seemed new: I could hardly believe that two months ago we had measured their breadth, and sailed through both of them. About sunset I saw the Captain coming. He told me the Pasha had offered him his new dahabie, although not finished, and it would be here to-morrow at noon. Eviva Latif Pasha! The Captain said, “The Pasha was very well, and asked after you. The Padre Zara, poor fellow! had had fever after we left, and was