TRAVEL S. CHAPTER I. DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO AND JOURNEY TO KENEH. AFTER a stay of six days at Cairo, we determined to set off on our journey and go up the Nile to Corosco in Nubia, and having hired a dahabie (boat), and provisioned it for the voyage, we embarked at the anchorage in Bulac,* on the 11th of September, at six o'clock in the evening. The wind being fair, we set sail, and soon were stemming the current of the sweet sea, the Nile. I say the current, for the Nile (as I think all know,) differs from all other * Bulac is the same as Cairo, with this exception only, that it is situated on the bank of the Nile, and is the port where all the boats are moored. The great city is about half a mile distant from it. + The Arabs call the Nile sweet sea to distinguish it from the Mediterranean, which they call salt sea. B rivers. Whilst they in general increase during the winter months, the Nile, on the contrary, does so in the summer. In the month of September, the Nile is in all its majesty, filling not only its own channel, but inundating all the islands in its course. The first which we saw after leaving Bulac, was Delta; a beautiful and large island, surrounded by a high and strong wall, so that it has the appearance of an inexpugnable rock. But with all this, it had almost succumbed before the torrent, and our dahabie, as it sailed on the copious stream, was on a level with the high trees, planted there long ago. I was very sad at such a spectacle, for I remembered, that last year I stopped there to catch the breeze and enjoy the shadow of those fine trees, which were now almost covered with water. I had not much time for such thoughts, for the wind increasing, we sped onwards, and soon left Delta behind us. The night advanced, and seemed preparing to cover us with its darkness, but the silvery moon, the sparkling and trembling stars in that limpid sky reflecting on the waters, which gradually became calm,* continued the light as if it were still day. I remained up some time, observing and enjoying that beautiful sight. Then wishing the captain good night, I retired to rest. The wind, however, again increas *The waters of the Nile become calm near sunset, and are generally calm at night. I was very attentive in noticing this to see if the observation of the learned Abdollat was true. It is really as he stated in his History of Egypt and the Nile, that the Nile becomes calm near sunset. ing, our dahabie was so tossed about as to render sleep impossible; but I was still glad to lie down on my couch. As it was important that the sailors should not attempt anchoring* for the night, Captain P. kept watch, remaining awake all night. We progressed so favourably during the first night, that at half-past eight in the morning, we came in sight of Beni Seuf, the first bandar† of Upper Egypt. The wind failing, we did not reach it until two p.m., and we anchored there for a little time. We set off thence with a strong wind, which, at sunset, became almost tempestuous; so we anchored for the night. On its abating, we again started and went so rapidly that on the 13th, a few minutes after four p.m., we arrived at Minieh, the second bandar of Upper Egypt. Without stopping there we continued our course; but about midnight we were obliged to anchor, on account of the strong and furious wind. At five in the morning of the 14th, we left the shore, where we had taken shelter, and although the atmosphere was clear and the sun was shining brilliantly, the howling of the wind was so frequent and horrible as to frighten The boatmen wished to stop, as they every one. usually do in such circumstances, but Captain P. up *The custom of the Egyptian sailors is to anchor as soon as the sun sets, though the wind is fair; that they intended to do, but Captain P. forced them to leave the dahabie to her course and profit by the favourable wind. They never sail at night for fear that the dahabie should strike on the rudder shoals, which are numerous, and be lost. † Bandar means a market town or village, as Beni Seuf and others. |