Indian Civilization.

87

dustry of the district, by spinning balls of cotton thread, making hammocks, and weaving cotton cloth.

If we keep in mind that, with the exception of a very small minority of the mixed breeds, the producers of this district are pure Chaima Indians, and compare their industrial status with other South American Indians, we cannot but conclude that Indian civilisation in Venezuela surpasses that of the Indians of the contiguous countries.*

*It is apparent, from Venezuelan statistics, that their Indians have been instructed and utilised as members of the Republic. In the year 1800, they are classified among the inhabitants thus:

(In round numbers, from Hippisley's Expedition). 1. Whites,

2. Mixed races, including civilised Indians,

3. Slaves,

4. Indians under Christian influence,

5. Independent Indians,

And in the year 1839 :—

I. Whites,

2. Mixed races,

3. Slaves,

200,000

4. Civilised Indians,

155,000

5. Catechised Indians,

14,000

6. Independent Indians,

53,000

Indians from within the boundaries of Brazil are steadily entering British Guiana as settlers, owing doubtless to the latitude given to them to cut wood, and also to the enjoyment they possess of equal rights with British settlers. But beyond these privileges they are left pretty much to themselves for the cultivation of steady habits of industry, and the morality which industry brings along with it. Portions of a community require leading-strings of a strong kind: to these the laissez faire policy is unjust as it is unwise. But for this policy, the negro race in British Guiana would be, I think, occupying a better position than they now do, and the Indians would cease their desultory habits of labour, and become stead producers and consumers in the commonwealth.

We presented ourselves to the jefe politico or magistrate of the town. He was a tall Indian of about fifty years of age, in apparently not the best health, and with an intelligent but rather sinister countenance.

There were five or six soldiers in the apart

ment.

One of them was cooking, one or two

Untidy Soldiers.

89

were furbishing their old muskets, and the others were lounging about the door, fully accoutred, that is, bootless, jacketless, one with a cap, the other with an old and torn straw hat. They could be distinguished as soldiers only by their crossbelts with the bayonets and cartouche boxes.

The revenue officer, who appeared to have some communication for the jefe, retired with him into an apartment, and after a while the jefe came out and asked what he could do for me. To my inquiries respecting the peons, he answered that Christobal had left a week ago, with three other men, to work with un Ingles at Caña Caruto, presumably myself, and that Domingo was ill, and had deputed one of the three men to work in his stead. I asked permission to visit the town, and to see Domingo, if possible. Domingo, he said, was at home, some distance off. He would have himself gladly taken me about the town, only that he had some business to look after, but I was at liberty to go and see whatever was worth seeing. My companion offered to go with me.

The town of Pun Ceres is built in regular squares, in number about twenty, with an open space four times the size of the ordinary blocks. This open space is called La Plaza, and is supposed to be the place for the evolutions of the citizen soldiers of the district, and also the public market. On one side of this square was the guard-room or court-house, in which I saw the jefé. There were two or three stores or shops on the opposite side, kept by half-breeds. One side contained the district church. All the houses are whitewashed outside, and have thatched roofs.

We entered the church. It was of stucco, and thatched, and very decent within. The chancel had some pretensions to the gaudy splendour which mars the beauty of many churches, and is especially distasteful when its poverty of execution makes it a travesty of the original design.

The cura, a young man of about thirty years, was a priest of pure Indian blood, of a very benevolent thoughtful countenance, and with the slightest tinge of priestly pride discernible. He

was overlooking some painters and gilders, who had painted the rounded ceiling of the chancel of a very deep sky blue, and placed golden stars, and a carver who was replacing or renewing a dislocated member of an image of the Blessed Virgin Mother.

I never saw more goats at once in any place than in this square. They were lying all under the eaves of the church, and on the steps, quite tame, and undisturbed by the presence of passers by. We went to Domingo's house, in the suburbs of the town, where he was lying in his chincora with fever. I was glad to see him in his own place and among his family, to all of whom he introduced me.