CHAPTER XXX.

A BULL-FIGHT.

THE results of a comparison between the general enthusiasm of the citizens of Maturin, and the apathy and partial attendance of those of Bolivar to the public festivals seem at first sight strange and unaccountable. For whereas in the religious processions and general festivals of Maturin, its streets are overcrowded by the efflux of its own and suburban population, similar festivals in Bolivar, although accompanied with more pomp and splendour, yet lack the thorough heartiness of those who take part in them, while the paucity of followers is an unmistakable symptom of the weak hold of those institutions upon the general public. But several circumstances tend to account for the difference.

The population of Maturin is considerably less than that of Bolivar. The two cities are unlike,

inasmuch as Bolivar, itself wholly a commercial city, is also the commercial focus of the upper Orinoco and Apure, by means of steamers and vessels of considerable tonnage: and land-travelling is almost excluded by the isolated position of the city by reason of swamps, lagoons and rocks. Whereas Maturin, the town residence of farmers with a limited number of merchants, mostly native, is the centre of an agricultural and grazing province, and is easily accessible by means of convenient natural roads from all quarters to the suburban villages and settlements. The Llanerofamilies have also no lack of horses, mules, and donkeys. Perhaps the mixed population of Bolivar, of English and French West Indians, Americans of the United States, and Europeans from every country of that continent has also mainly contributed to the result. These differences of industries, peoples, and modes of travel render the festivities of Maturin a provincial affair, while those of Bolivar are confined not even to the citizens generally, but to only a portion of them.

A forthcoming festival to be celebrated in the

Church Processions.

289

town is a topic of conversation in every house of Maturin and its environs for weeks before the day arrives, while in Bolivar I have seen a grand procession led by surpliced choristers, acolytes, and priests with large silver and gold or gilded crucifixes, crosses, and crosiers, attended by dignitaries of the church with profuse decorations, followed by about two hundred persons, a few apparently devout and regular attendants—many casual passers-by who drop on their knees and kiss the hand of one or more of the clergy-several evidently stopped on their way by the crowd-the majority of which is a dirty pack of idle sightseers; while the shops in the street are open and the shopkeepers driving a busy trade. The occupants of other streets are, in the meantime, ignorant of the proceedings until the procession arrives at their own quarter.

It was by the merest accident that I heard of an intended bull-fight or "toreo," to take place within a couple of hours from the time of my receiving information, on the square opposite the governor's residence.

T

1

1 expected to have seen all Bolivar out to witness the bull-fight-the devout and the irreligious, the natives and the strangers. The balconies of the houses of two sides of the square contained well-dressed people, I suppose the native elite of the city, among whom were his excellency and his family, with a few of their friends.

An area of a fourth of the square, about five acres, was inclosed by a strong palizada to the height of about eight feet, the spars of which it was constructed being sufficiently apart to enable the outsiders to see all that went on within the enclosure, where the toreros or bull-slayers walked about, fancifully dressed, their red scarves around their waists, and their long sheath-knives at their sides, being conspicuous. Amateurs of the city, on horseback, panting for honours such as in mediæval times incited the knights in their tournaments before royalty and fair dames, curvetted about and exhibited their horsemanship side by side with the bona-fide Llaneros, with an ambition equal to "Don Quixote," lacking only his courage and address. A military band played.

A Bull-Fight.

291

After a signal given, a bull-calf, not of large size, was pushed out from a gate of one of the houses abutting on the enclosure. Only when goaded did it attempt any motion, and then it ran from one point to another, making not even a feint to defend itself from a kick from one or other of its tormentors. It was indeed so insignificant a display that the crowd about the palizada-about eight hundred people-hooted and jeered. The amateur toreros were assailed with sarcasm, which comes aptly from a Venezuelan.

"Now, Don Pedro, show your gallantry; the sucking-calf is brought out in compliment to your prowess!"

"Don Henrico has had enough of this wild bull. Take the formidable creature in and let the Don amuse himself and us with a kid!"

"The ladies give you credit, Don Sebastian, for insisting on the choice of so worthy an object for your lance!"

Somewhat in this manner, each of the amateurs (for whose especial practice the timid little bull was introduced) received sarcastic compliments from