his eyes went no further than the lace of his official coat hanging over the chair.

It was the old gentleman suitor, who, as I was walking out, kindly directed me to the proper quarter for the transaction of my business.

M

CHAPTER XIX.

SOCIAL INSTITUTIONS OF MATURIN.

THE institutions of Maturin, as far as I have witnessed them, may be divided into

I. Religious (a), or such as are solemnised by the Church only, (b) or adopted by the people in their social festivities.

Of these there are (a), 1. Sunday Services; 2. The way of the Cross; 3. Unction; 4. Funerals.

also (6), 1. Customs at baptisms; 2. Respecting the dead;

3. Christmas Eve.

II. Of the purely social institutions they have:

2. Education. School and Home Studies.

It is a singular fact, at least not singular in some purely Roman Catholic countries, that as a rule the church-going people consist only of the women and children. On great festival days the priest persuades a few men to assist in the imposing processional pageantries which, to minds

Catholic Processions.

179

suitably disposed, yield a stimulus to devotion. But the bulk of the population keeping correct note of times and seasons, celebrate them more by home and social festivities; busying themselves on those days, in cooking dainty dishes and in sending out presents to their friends and neighbours, and receiving in return. In this friendly interchange of civilities, the Maturineros could appropriately adopt the motto, "hanc veniam petimusque damusque vicissim." It were uncharitable and untrue to say that their religion was solely of a gastric nature; yet it is difficult for the most impartial to limit the importance placed by these people on the culinary observance of solemn festivals.

The great procession is that of "the stations to Calvary." On this occasion altars are erected in two of the principal streets. Flags and costly cloths are exhibited at the windows of houses, and a great crowd of worshippers and sightseers throng the way. The priest and his staff of singers, with a large number of girls of all ages and well-dressed people of both sexes, followed

by a crowd all cleanly clothed, promenade the At each station prayers are said and

streets.

hymns sung.

A very solemn procession is that for the administration of the viaticum, or the sacrament of the blessed Eucharist (or it may be of extreme unction, for I am not certain), to the dying Christians. In the still time of Vespers, the sweet soft voices of pious women, aided by boys and the rich sonorous tones of the priest and senior choristers of the Church, are heard chanting reverentially the awe-inspiring music ascribed to Saint Gregory. As they approach you perceive each female dressed in white, and holding in her hand a lighted lantern. A glance shows you the earnest devout faces going prepared to meet the Bridegroom in the chamber of Death. These ignore Death, for to them it is a new life, a betrothal, an entering into the marriage feast. They are like the virgins going out to meet the Bridegroom, with expressions of chastened joy, their lamps filled, and trimmed, and lighted. Such is not an unlikely first impression on wit

nessing the night procession to the sick chamber.

Funerals vary in solemn grandeur according to the prices paid to the Church; from the mutterings of the solitary padre preceding a plain mean coffin-a few pesos; to the full vocal orchestra of the Church, acolytes in cassock and surplice with smoking censers, and lofty gilt crucifix-for many pesos.

In baptism, not only do the sponsors make gifts to the child, but the friends of the sponsors show their regard for them by bringing gifts also. The parents, for the day, are merely satellites to the sponsors who, during life, exercise, when they please, an authority over the destiny of their godchild. The deference paid by youths to their god-parents is very remarkable. They kiss their hand, or with crossed arms and bowed heads ask for a blessing, in house, or street, or market. The formality surely carries with it much of the genuine spirit of disciplined obedience and Christian love and duty; and is, as to results, less formal than the uninterested sponsorship of some people in other than Papal churches.