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arrived at the front of the mansion, we were surprised at the meanness of its appearance-at the walls of sunburnt brick, and the few miserable windows, stuck here and there without order or arrangement, possessing no glass, but covered in with a thick lattice formed of cross bars of wood. Great, however, was the contrast between the exterior of the house and the scene that presented itself when we passed through a door opened by a slave.

We saw, to our surprise and pleasure, a spacious and magnificent court, paved with Dutch tiles and marble. In the centre of it was a large fountain, bubbling over into a cool, clear, circular reservoir of water filled with pet fish. Around this court extended a range of buildings one story high, of a pretty fantastic style of architecture, decorated with Moorish or Saracenic ornaments. At the upper end of the court was a grotto, or alcove, floored with various coloured marbles opening on the spacious area, but elevated three steps above it. A rich figured divan extended around the walls, and the little secluded spot presented a cool and delightful smoking retreat, from whence the large court and the murmuring fountain were most agreeably surveyed.

Seating ourselves on the soft luxurious divan,

we were served with coffee. Some black slaves in scarlet dresses, with long white wands, then came to conduct us to see some of the apartments of the mansion and of the harem, the ladies of which were absent at a summer villa in the gardens. The buildings on the western side of the court contained a succession of detached handsome rooms; the floors were covered with a thick matting, and the ceilings were painted in a beautiful manner and with great taste. The walls were adorned with rich carving and gilding, and all around them, raised about a foot and a half from the floor, extended a divan covered with the rich figured mixed silk and cotton stuff of Damascus manufacture. The grand saloon or reception hall, on the ground floor, on the northern side of the court, in which strangers and visitors are received, was by far the finest apartment of the place. We first came on to a square floor paved with different coloured marbles, having a fountain in the centre, and over head a handsomely painted and gilded ceiling. From this first floor we ascended by steps to other raised floors, paved with marble and covered with a very handsome matting. Scrolls and different devices were painted around the walls, something in the Chinese style, and divans extended all around

HOUSE OF ALI AGA KAZINI KATIBI. 165

the apartment, placed against the wall; all persons before stepping on to these divans slip off their shoes, and the ladies themselves recline on them either with bare feet, or clothed in purple embroidered velvet slippers. Whenever they step off these luxurious couches, they put on a species of high patten, the same as that used in the bath, but made of costlier materials, very frequently of ebony inlaid with mother-of-pearl; from long habit they are enabled to run about in these things, and even up and down stairs, with the greatest agility without falling.

After satisfying our curiosity we proceeded with the dragoman to the beautiful house of Ali Aga Kazini Katibi, which possessed the usual plain sun-burnt brick exterior. We knocked at the gate, and were admitted by a black slave into two handsome courts paved with marble, and surrounded by low buildings, ornamented with Arabesque paintings and fretted work. In the last court we found Ali Aga Kazini Katibi in the midst of brick, dust and mortar, superintending the construction of a new range of buildings. We were presented to him as friends of Mr. Farren, desirous of seeing his celebrated and beautiful new room. He received us in the most condescending manner, and forthwith conducted us into