the shadow of trees with which the valley abounded; a kid was killed and roasted, and every attention paid to our comfort. The date trees, the tents of the Arabs, contrasting strongly with the various vegetation, a rivulet of pure water, which descended from the mountain, the cheerful twittering of the birds, all served to heighten our enjoyment of the scene. It was a realization of the Happy Valley; and my Fancy could not but picture, perhaps erroneously, the inhabitants of this lovely spot as innocent and as happy as the scenes in which they dwelt.

On either side were mountains of the most beautiful and picturesque form-and I would willingly have ascended them to make a better survey of this exquisite valley; but had only time to make a sketch from the station where we rested, while the Arabs were employed in the lading of their camels.

This spot is known among the people by the name of "Hamam el Pharaone," or the Baths of Pharoh. During the time of Moses the whole of the surrounding country was called "The Wilderness of Paran." It is recorded, Gen. xxi, 21, that this wilderness was the dwelling-place of Ishmael, from whom all the Arabs boast their descent. It was here also that the children of Israel rested, Num. x, 12; we are also told that after Samuel's death "David arose, and went down to the wilderness of Paran.” We remained here six hours, and then continued our course along the valley, which was of some extent, and presented a high degree of fertility. I was shown by one of the Arabs, on a mountain to the left, some remains of an ancient wall. These were probably the ruins of the Greek convents under the jurisdiction of Mount Sinai, having for their bishop the celebrated Theodosius, who wrote against the Monothelites. Near this place, on the same side of the mountain, were certain other remains. We soon afterwards quitted the valley, and continued our course until sunset. The summit of Mount Serbal presented an appearance of the utmost grandeur, with its blue peaks towering above its neighbour giants. How

forcibly did the solemn majesty of this mountain embody or typify the sublimity of God. "The Lord came from Sinai, and rose up from Seir unto them, and appeared clearly from Mount Paran, and he came with ten thousands of saints, and at his right hand a fiery law for them." Deut. xxiii. 2.

"God cometh from Teman, and the holy one from Mount Paran, Selah! His glory covereth the heavens, and the earth is full of his praise; and his brightness was as the light: he had horns coming out of his hands; and there was the hiding of his power. Before him went the pestilence, and burning coals went forth before his feet. He stood and measured the earth; he beheld and dissolved the nations, and the everlasting mountains were broken; and the ancient hills did bow: his ways are everlasting." Hab. xi, 43. We pitched our tents at the base of this mountain, with the intention of starting early the following morning, in order to reach the

convent.

At half-past four, A. M., we were all in readiness; and leaving Mount Serbal we gradually approached Mount Horeb; and after reposing for three hours in a pleasant and woody valley, which afforded the camels an opportunity of refreshing themselves for the remainder of their journey, we set forth again. Our course lay between high rocks: the path was rugged and intricate; and at length we entered an opening; which passed, we soon arrived at a portion of the rock before which the Arabs prostrated themselves, kissing it with great reverence. This stone I was informed is the place where Mahomet rested himself. There is a slight hollow in the stone, which you are assured is the impression produced by the Prophet. The veneration paid to this particular spot has doubtless continued from the time of Mahomet.

Mount Sinai is regarded with equal respect by Turk and Christian. The view from this spot was extremely grand; Mount Sinai, Mount Horeb, and Mount Serbal were all visible. Some gazelles and wild goats were

startled by our approach-they stopped a few seconds, as if astonished at our appearance in their seldom-invaded solitudes. The Arabs wished to fire at them; but long before they were prepared the animals bounded off, and so swift were their movements, that I could catch but a momentary glimpse of them. In spite, however, of their speed, it is customary for the Arab boys to chase them, and by means of perseverance they generally succeed in tiring them out; for, though the gazelle has the advantage of speed, it is not possessed of strength in proportion. At a short distance from the sacred rock is a small hut, the burial-place of a Sheikh named Saaleh. This is also a highly-venerated spot; we, however, passed it without any ceremony.

It was now near sunset; and, making a sudden turn between the mountains, I obtained the first view of the convent of Mount Sinai, with its garden, situated in a valley surrounded on three sides by mountains.

After the fatiguing day which we had passed, the prospect of a continued rest in so inviting a situation cheered the spirits of our whole party, who, after firing pistols as a signal of our approach, began relating the miracles of the Prophet, and extolling the sanctity of the Gebel Mousa.*

* Gebel Mousa-the rock struck by Moses, called by the Arabs Massab and Meribab. Massah and Meribah in Hebrew signify "quarrel," "temptation." The Bedouins attribute to the holes from which the water flowed a healing virtue, and are in the habit of placing within them herbs, which, after having for a certain time imbibed the medicinal property of the stone, they give to their sick camels.

The rock struck by Moses, as also that on which the Commandments were written, is of the same granite as that which composes Mounts Horeb and Sinai. This granite has been of great service to the Egyptians, in the construction of their temples, obelisks, &c.-Hasselquist.

CHAPTER III.

RECEPTION BY THE SUPERIOR - SUPPER GARDEN OF THE CONVENT FRUIT-CHURCH TOMB OF ST. CATHARINE-EXHIBITION OF THE SAINT'S BODY-MIRACLE

MANUSCRIPTS

IN THE LIBRARY EDICT OF MAHOMET KINDNESS OF THE MONKS ANECDOTE OF THE PROPHET-ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN-HEIGHT STEPS FOR THE PILGRIMS - CHAPEL OF THE VIRGIN-GATE AND CONFESSIONAL FOR THE PILGRIMS-STONE AND CHAPEL OF ELIAS -PLAIN AND CYPRESS-MIRACULOUS PRINT OF THE FOOT OF MAHOMET'S CAMEL-MARK OF THE HANDS AND BACK OF MOSES IN THE ROCK REACH THE SUMMIT-BEGINNING OF THE DESCENT-REST ON THE PLAIN OF ST. ELIAS - CONVENT OF EIBEREEN, OR ST. ONUPHRIUS THE STONE STRUCK BY MOSES - MARK OF THE HEAD OF THE GOLDEN CALFRETURN TO THE CONVENT - SPOT WHERE GOD APPEARED TO MOSES CHAPEL OF THE EMPRESS HELENA — MANUSCRIPT OF THEODOSIUS - PLUNDER OF THE CONVENT BY THE ARABS PERSECUTION OF THE MONKS BARGAIN WITH ARABS-DANGER OF ROUTE BY AKABA-BREAKFAST WITH THE MONKS-DIET OF THE CONVENT - GRACE-PREPARATION FOR DEPARTURE,

MOUNT SINAI AND THE CONVENT OF ST. CATHARINE.

ON alighting from our camels, we were drawn up by means of a windlass to a window about thirty feet from the ground. This plan is adopted by the monks to insure safety from the attacks of the Arabs; the entrance door being only opened for the reception of a new patriarch whose residence is at Constantinople.

We were received by the Fathers right hospitably; but they seemed much disappointed at our not being the bearers of letters from Cairo. We were shown into a very comfortable apartment, the floor of which was covered with a divan of fine carpets: on one side of the door hung a portion of