GLEANINGS

FROM THE

DESERT OF ARABIA.

CHAPTER I.

BOUND TO THE EAST.

ON a bright day in the middle of October, after a stormy night, we steamed out of the port of Marseilles, bound for the East.

Storms are not unfrequent in the Mediterranean, and one was ahead of us. We had a dirty night, during which we made but little way. In the morning the ship was put about; we ran for Hyères Roads, and dropped anchor at noon. After a delay of twenty-four hours we resumed our course. A run of twelve hours brought us off Ajaccio, and at dawn the serrated outline of the Corsican mountains was seen through the haze. We passed through, on this occasion, the Straits of Bonifacio by the Middle Passage. The "Bear Mountain" passage is a feature of interest, and subsequently I had

more than one opportunity of seeing the very singular appearance of a gigantic bear on the top of the lofty rocky shore. A high and conical-shaped group of rocks on the coast of Sardinia is surmounted by some rocks of great size, which present an extraordinary and most striking resemblance to a colossal bear.

After having coasted the fine seaboard of Sardinia, on which island a considerable number of horses, small in size, but of strong make, run wild, the little island of Ustica is sighted, and shortly afterwards the Sicilian shores, that part known as Conch d'Or (the Golden Shell). Rounding a promontory of fine abrupt cliffs of a red colour, Palermo was made in a heavy storm of rain and thunder.

On account of the storm which had swept over the Tyrrhenian Sea, and because we were some hours behind our time, the ship had been anxiously expected, and on her arrival was speedily surrounded by boats containing the friends of the numerous second-class passengers; as question and reply were rapidly exchanged in different languages by a multitude of people, there was much confusion of sound. The expectant friends in the boats, with hands clasped, said they had feared the ship had foundered. Those on board replied that they had indeed met death face to face, and had wellnigh given themselves up for lost! The storm was still over us, and heavy rain was falling; but an amusing scene occurred between a young priest and a boatman who had brought the former from the shore.

The Sicilian mariner demanded more money. The

priest, who thought he had paid enough, but wishing to stop the clamour of the boatman, was running to and fro along the thwarts of the numerous boats collected round the ship, stepping with vigorous bound from boat to boat, disturbing their equilibrium, to the no small discomfort of the fair occupants, and at the momentary risk of falling into the water; at one instant hurrying forward to gain his ship, just on the point of starting, at the next rushing back to make an increased offer to satisfy the Sicilian mariner, who indignantly refused a compromise, and on bended knees, and with strange gesticulations, urged his claim for the full amount. This Sicilian, with his black beard, hard features, marked eyebrows, and dark brown eyes, of a red and yellow skin, clothed with a coarse blanket, with a cap on his head like those supposed to have been worn by the Phrygians, was a strange-looking object. Was this, we thought, the type of those who first from Troy came with pious Æneas to the Sicilian shores?

The weather cleared before sundown, and we enjoyed for the first time this voyage a true Mediterranean evening. The air was soft and balmy, the atmosphere clear, the moon bright, Venus, if possible, even brighter, and appearing very large. The town, blazing with its many lights reflected in the still water, the mountains in parts lighted up by the moon, and partly buried in deep shade, constituted a most charming scene. The Bay of Palermo, with its surrounding scenery, rivals that of Naples.

Early the next morning we entered the harbour of

Messina. There is a grand façade, which extends the whole length of the quay towards Charybdis. Oxen were employed in drawing heavy loads; donkeys and mules in carrying burdens, and horses were used for carriages of light draught. Soldiers were at target practice; convicts, in gangs, bathing under surveillance. There are many fine buildings in Messina, both old and new, and a considerable amount of shipping in the harbour. As we were veering to go out, the Galileo paddle-boat, with troops on board, and their band playing, was slowly steaming in.

There are fine bold hills rising immediately behind Messina, and from certain points extensive views of the island itself, of the opposite coast, and seaward, can be seen. The scenery at Palermo is grander; but in the hot season Messina enjoys a cooling breeze, owing to the narrow straits, which draw a current of air; whereas Palermo is very hot from June to September. In Sicily the clocks strike twenty-four hours instead of twelve twice.

Beautiful as the Straits of Messina are at all times, they are seen to great advantage as you pass up or down on a still night: the towns of Reggio and Messina, on either side, being distinctly brought out by their numerous lights against the background of hill and mountain, and reflected in the calm waters.

Mount Etna, whose peak and upper slopes are never without snow, often presents a magnificent appearance from the sea, rising grandly up in purple behind a lower line of red rocky cliffs, and, from some positions, seem

ing to ascend directly from the water's edge. On this occasion the mountain was enveloped in clouds; but waiting my opportunity, pencil in hand, when for a few moments only the mist was partly rolled away, I depicted as best I could his snow-capped head; on several other occasions I have been more fortunate.

It is tolerably hot in October off the south coast of Calabria; the mountains present a barren appearance, and there are some curious and precipitous rocks. Rapid and marked changes in the colour of the sea off this coast were noticed, from beautiful blue to light and bright green, the lines of colour being very abrupt and strongly marked.

The first point of Greece actually sighted I believe to be Cape Gallo, a little south of Navarino; shortly afterwards Cape Matapan is seen and passed at no great distance. Our course is between the mainland and the Island of Cerigo, across the Gulf of Kolokythy, and we run close in shore by Cape Maleo, or St. Angelo, a fine headland which forms the eastern point of the gulf.

Here lives a hermit, much resorted to by the natives for advice on certain subjects, who displays a red flag by day and lights a beacon fire by night.

The town of Syra, in the island of the same name, situate nearly midway between the mainland of Greece and the western shore of Asia Minor, is our next port, and is made about forty-eight hours after leaving Messina. As seen from the sea, Syra presents a barren appearance, as do also other of the Geeek islands, and