ISLE OF SAINTE BARBE, ON THE SAÔNE.

57

are amply lighted, and their groined roofs are sustained by Tuscan pillars. In the western, which are more dismal, monuments and funeral urns are arranged, after the manner of the Roman tombs at Pompeii. Beneath the centre of the cross, and in the vaults, are two concentric circular corridors, where an echo is found capable of repeating with extraordinary loudness, the lowest whispers. The guide who shows the wonders of these subterranean regions, by merely striking with a cane on the outstretched skirt of his coat, produces a reverberation that is painfully impressive.

Here are deposited the mortal remains of Voltaire and Rousseau; to the former a fine marble statue is erected, to the latter a painted wooden tomb. In the same last resting-place are the bones of the mathematician, Lagrange; of the circumnavigator, Bougainville; the Dutch Admiral, De Winter; Soufflet, who designed the church; and Marshal Lannes, duke de Montebello, the favourite general of Napoleon. The year 1791 is one worthy of record in the history of the Pantheon, for here then took place the apotheoses of Voltaire and Rousseau, and the interment of Mirabeau. The historian and novelist have retained their narrow cells; but Mirabeau, and Marat, who had also obtained admission to a tomb, were publicly exhumed, and depantheonized, by a decree of the national government.

The site of the Pantheon is elevated, and the space around it ornamented with public offices and buildings of considerable elegance; immediately adjoining is the famous library of St. Geneviève, founded by the Cardinal de la Rochefouçault, in 1724; and near it is the college of Henri Quatre, where the sons of Louis Philippe received their education. From the gallery of the cupola, which is reached by 475 steps, a view of the city and surrounding country is enjoyed, at once extensive and interesting.

ISLE OF SAINTE BARBE, ON THE SAÔNE.

NEAR LYONS.

"Few happy hours poor mortals pass,
Then round them bind no zone,
But rank among the foremost class,

Our evenings on the Saône."

PILGRIMAGE TO ST. BARBE.

A SHORT distance above Lyons, on the river Saône, and where the banks rise rather rough and steep, the little isle of Sainte Barbe seems to float on the waters. Its position is picturesque, its ancient remains highly interesting, and the landscape of which it forms the middle distance particularly pleasing. A party of Christians, who took refuge in this lovely isle from the persecutions of the emperor Severus, first raised here a religious edifice. Finding the spot uncultivated, barren, and wild, they named it

P

"L'Isle de Barbe," which, in course of time, was corrupted into "L'Isle de Sainte Barbe. So pleasing was the retirement found here, to the emperor Charlemagne, that he passed very many days in the old monastery founded by the persecuted Christians, and had even formed a project of closing his eventful life in its religious scclusion. It was with this view that he collected a library, which, when the state of literature in that age is remembered, must have been a most costly undertaking. His purpose, however, was not carried out, and the library, which had been carefully preserved till the year 1562, was burned by the Calvinists, who still further disgraced their cause by pillaging the monastery. This censure, however, should be qualified, and the cause distinguished from its professed supporters, for assuredly Calvinism throws no shield over the sacrilegious and the unjust.

Some few years before the great revolution, the monastery was pulled down, the refectory and dormitories being preserved, but converted into private dwellings. A single tower survives, from the upper story of which the emperor is said to have counted his veteran legions, as they marched along the river's banks. Other reliques of other days remain, but the present castle is not older than the fifteenth century, although the chapel is obviously of much earlier date.

The form of the island is peculiarly graceful and picturesque, its agreeable features being further adorned by foliage, full and luxuriant; it is visited by boats from Lyons, but is connected with the shore by a wire bridge.

Lyons has been celebrated for ages back for its public processions and holiday feats. The festival of the Mad Horse, and the patron-day of St. Denis, are, perhaps, the most universally observed, but the pilgrimage to St. Barbe the most joyously. It is held twice in each year, on the Monday and Tuesday of Easter and of Whitsun weeks. On these occasions the river is covered with boats, over which flags, and streamers, and banners, with devices, flutter gaily; bands of music are carried by some, others are occupied with companies of mummers. Along the banks proceed cabriolets, fiacres, citadines, voitures, and every variety and quality of carriage Lyons boasts of, intermixed with countless pedestrians, whose picty or poverty has limited them to the humblest mode of travelling. Landed in safety, but not in solitude, the pilgrims proceed to feasting, promenading, dancing; and they give all their energies to the pursuit of pleasure, until night puts an end to the revelry. Resuming their places in boats or carriages, or setting out on foot again, they return with the same ceremony to the busy haunts of commerce. This procession originated in the time of Charles VI., when the sovereignty of the right bank of the Saône was in dispute between the kings of France and the counts of Savoy. The question being decided in favour of the former, a procession was instituted by the magistrates of Lyons and the chief military officers, to take place annually on Whit-Monday, the object of which was twofold, to commemorate the decision, and to return thanks to the saint of this holy isle for his patronage. They went by water the whole way to the island, where the standard of Savoy had previously been hoisted; this they immediately pulled down, and raised that of France in its stead, to show, that the right of sovereignty was vested in their monarch. The commemo