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the current against the boat, or the howl of a jackal awakening the echoes far among the mountains. We were now approaching the ruins of one of the most renowned cities of the ancient world, whose glory both historians and poets have delighted to magnify, dazzled by the fame of its grandeur and prodigious antiquity, which carries back the imagination to the shadowy regions of tradition, the youthful freshness of the primitive earth, and the first establishments of mankind. Yet, as for several nights past I had slept but little, an unaccountable drowsiness overtook me in the midst of all these ideas; to dispel which I was fain to have recourse to coffee and the chibouque. I remember to have fallen asleep in a Tuscan brig off Candia, during the alarm, which I shared equally with the rest, caused by the appearance of what seemed to be a Greek pirate: and now, notwithstanding the excitement of my feelings, it was with difficulty that I kept myself awake. The cold, which was this night severe, and, as usual, augmented towards morning, may perhaps have contributed to increase my heavi

ness.

CCXXXVI. At length, just as the east began to redden with the first light of dawn, the reis informed me that Thebes was in sight. On going forward, however, to the bows of the vessel, I could distinguish nothing but confused dusky masses, the date woods and propylæa of Karnak and Luxor. I immediately landed on the African side, and by the dawning light,

mingled with that of the moon, hastened along the bank towards Gournou. Twilight, contrary to what is generally supposed, is very long in Egypt; for I had proceeded a full mile before it was possible clearly to distinguish objects; but, at length, the lofty propylon of the great temple of Karnak became distinctly visible, towering far above the tallest palm trees. From no part of the plain does the view comprehend all the ruins at once, more especially in the dim light preceding the appearance of the sun; but, knowing in what direction each object lay, my eye eagerly sought along the plain for the temples of Luxor and Medinet Habou, the Memnonium, and the Vocal Statue. The splendour and interest of the scene appeared to increase every moment, as the red light of the sun streamed upwards from behind the Arabian mountains, covering their pinnacles with a thousand varying hues, and tinging the whole quivering face of the Nile with a sanguine dye. Nowhere, at a distance from the sea, have I seen a more magnificent site for a capital city. But the plough has passed over the foundation of street, and palace, and temple, few, very few of the "houses of the gods of the Egyptians," which arose after the conflagration kindled by the torch of the Persian, being now left, where a hundred propylæa, the ornaments, perhaps, of so many sacred edifices, once waved their vast banners in the wind. Moored under the great temple of Luxor, I found the boat of my companion, who informed me that a party of Indian officers, arrived a

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few days before across the desert from the Red Sea, were to depart next day for Cairo, and had kindly offered to take charge of any letters we might have for Europe; in consequence of which, though in the midst of objects so interesting, we spent the whole day in writing, and deferred until the morrow our cursory view of Thebes.

Wednesday, Jan. 9. Hermontis. CCXXXVII. Though desirous of hastening into Nubia before the water should be so low at the cataract as to prevent our ascent, we nevertheless could not quit Thebes without glancing over its ruins, colossal statues, enormous walls, covered with sculptured battle scenes; its magnificent avenues of sphynxes; its prodigious gateways, forests of pillars, obelisks, and propylæa; its painted tombs, and mighty statues. But we restrained our curiosity, and, setting sail after a short survey, proceeded up the river towards Esneh. The wind, however, which had tempted our departure, proved weak and variable, and, about sunset, died totally away, constraining us to moor for the night a little to the south of Hermontis, where, according to the Arabs, the Sultan et Timsah, or " King of the Crocodiles," resides. These animals, which chiefly abound in the portion of the Nile extending between Manfaloot and this place, here attain an enormous magnitude; but from this point, except, perhaps, in the immediate neighbourhood of Koom Ombos, they gradually become smaller and more rare as you ascend the Nile.

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IRRIGATION.

Thursday, Jan. 10. Esneh.

CCXXXVIII. There being little wind, we were this day obliged to have recourse for some time to tracking. Here we saw a phenomenon in Egypt two isolated mountains springing up from the plain, on the African bank; the one close to the river, the other running parallel with it at a short distance to the westward. Landing on the western bank, I observed the peasants busily employed in raising water for irrigation, with the lever and basket; a rude hydraulic apparatus consisting of two uprights and a cross-beam, placed like a doorway over a narrow canal, with a pole, having, at one end, an osier bucket, and a large lump of hardened earth at the other, traversing the beam. As the Nile in this part of the country never overflows its banks, the canals are very numerous, and appear abundantly sufficient for the purposes of irrigation, the whole plain being covered with luxuriant verdure. In several places, we saw plantations of the kharwah, or castor-oil plant; a very beautiful shrub. The oil is used by the Nubian women to soften their hair, and for many other purposes. During this walk I passed within a short distance of the site of Asphinis, where there are still, according to the Arabs, some slight traces of the ancient city; and arrived at Esneh about two hours after sunset. Here I heard an anecdote, illustrative of the manner in which justice is administered in this country. The boat's crew of two English travellers, being engaged in a quarrel with the crew of another kandjia, were beaten by the owners, three Turkish

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soldiers in the service of the Pasha. To obtain redress for this insult, the travellers made application to the governor of the next town; who, for their satisfaction, immediately ordered the koorbash to be administered, not to the soldiers, who had been guilty of the outrages-but to the reis of the boat, who had been nowise implicated in the affair. He then inquired if the complainants were satisfied, which he must have done in mockery;-and they, fearing that the reis might be again beaten as the proxy of the Turks, very coolly replied in the affirmative. A representation of the affair to Mohammed Ali would have procured the petty governor's recal.

Friday, Jan. 11. Taphnis.

CCXXXIX. Latopolis, the original name of Esneh, has been by some derived from that of a species of fish at present unknown, which, they say, was anciently worshipped in this city. But it would rather seem to signify "the City of Latona," the Bouto of the Egyptians, a goddess of great import in their mythology, who it is said, possessed in Egypt an oracular shrine, celebrated for the truth of its responses, delivered, probably, from the identical temple, the portico of which still exists. This magnificent ruin, which has perhaps obtained from travellers less notice than it deserves, must unquestionably have belonged to one of the most elegant structures in Egypt. Yet